Flowers, Chocolate, Ceramics, and a Fall

Posted on by Esterina Anderson

Today I’m writing this from the train as we head to Chiavari back from our second visit to Cinque Terre. We are absolutely in love with Chiavari. Truly. But we’re still here enjoying it, so that adventure will have to wait for another blog post!

We were diligently blogging until about three weeks ago when I fell in Assisi. I was incredibly grateful to receive good care quickly and be discharged from the hospital the same day, but the experience definitely took a lot out of me. For a while, I needed to slow down, take things carefully, and give myself time to recover. Additionally we had a few other things occupying us. I’ll explain, but blogging took a back seat for a short bit!

The fall happened during our trip to Umbria, which was otherwise absolutely wonderful. Time to write about it!

I’ll start by saying we stayed at a an absolutely charming hotel called Relais La Corte di Bettona in the tiny walled town of Bettona. Housed in a beautifully restored historic building, the hotel blends old-world character with modern comforts. It turned out to be the perfect base for exploring the region.

A historic stone archway with decorative shields and a large wooden door, leading to a narrow street winding upwards. Nearby buildings are visible along the sides, and street signs are present.
A panoramic view of a lush green landscape with rolling hills, fields, and distant mountains under a partly cloudy sky. A flower pot with vibrant purple flowers is in the foreground next to a black railing.
A scenic landscape view showcasing rolling green hills, a valley, and scattered clouds in a blue sky, with foreground foliage.
Scenic view from a terrace overlooking rolling hills and a valley, with white clouds scattered across a blue sky and a historic building with a tower in the foreground.
Scenic view of a valley at dusk, featuring rolling hills, distant lights from small towns, and a stone building with a pointed tower frame in the foreground, under a partly cloudy sky.
Narrow stone alleyway illuminated with warm orange light, leading to a set of steps and a wooden door in the background.
A man stands outdoors on a terrace with a scenic view of the countryside, holding a dog's leash. The sky is cloudy with rays of sunlight shining through. In the foreground, there are outdoor furniture and potted flowers.
Scenic view of a winding road lined with trees, leading to a historic stone archway and buildings in a picturesque landscape.

We based ourselves there with the intent of exploring the surrounding area, particularly Perugia and Assisi and to visit friends who were staying nearby.

After settling into the hotel, we headed to Spello, one of the many beautifully preserved hill towns in the Perugia area. We stopped for a leisurely sandwich, an aperitivo (non-alcoholic options abound in Italy), and what may have been the best coffee experience we’ve had in Italy so far.

What made this café so memorable was its espresso menu. Instead of simply ordering “an espresso,” there were beans from different regions around the world, each with tasting notes and flavor profiles. That’s surprisingly unusual in Italy, where coffee is generally excellent but choices are limited. My only complaint? Every option came in traditional espresso size!

Spello is known for its flowers, and the town lived up to its reputation. Colorful blooms spilled from window boxes, balconies, and doorways everywhere you look. There honestly wasn’t a bad photo to be taken. As my daughter put it, “It looks like a fairy tale town.”

A panoramic view of lush green fields and rolling hills under a partly cloudy sky, with rooftops of buildings in the foreground.
Narrow cobblestone alleyway between stone buildings adorned with colorful flower pots, leading to a wooden door.
A smiling man seated at an outdoor café table, with his hands clasped together, in front of a stone building adorned with flower pots. Sunlight is illuminating the scene, adding a warm, inviting atmosphere.
A bottle of D.O.P. Umbria extra virgin olive oil from Alfonso Priorelli, displayed on a table with a menu in the background and a sunny outdoor setting.
A charming stone building with a wooden balcony adorned with various colorful potted plants and flowers, set against a clear blue sky.
Narrow, picturesque alleyway adorned with colorful flowerpots and lush greenery, featuring decorative signs on the walls, under a clear blue sky.
A rustic window with a metal grill, framed by textured stone walls, featuring several flower pots with vibrant red and white flowers.
A charming staircase adorned with colorful potted plants and flowers, set against a rustic brick wall and wooden door.
Colorful painted pots arranged on stone stairs, leading to a wooden door, with a sunny sky in the background.
A scenic view of a pathway leading through a lush landscape with a clear blue sky, featuring green hills, cypress trees, and colorful foliage. The sun casts bright light on the stone pathway and surrounding greenery.
Charming stone entrance with a wooden door, adorned with hanging flower baskets and potted plants along the steps, situated in a narrow alleyway.
A notice with two signs discussing dog waste collection. The left sign shows a dog using a scoop, and the right sign emphasizes keeping the area clean and disposing of waste properly.
Wooden trellis with various potted flowers, including pink blossoms, against a stone wall.
A stone archway covered with greenery frames a metal gate, leading to a courtyard with potted plants and a cobblestone path.
A mounted boar's head above a sign promoting truffle hunting, featuring a person holding truffles in their hands. The background shows a stone wall and hanging plants.
A white bicycle adorned with colorful flowers is parked in front of a store with clothing displayed inside, surrounded by plants and greenery.

Our next stop was Assisi. Daren and I regularly read meditations from Franciscan priest Richard Rohr and have read several of his books. Through his work, we learned a bit about Saint Francis of Assisi, so arriving there felt a little like visiting the hometown of someone we’d heard about for years. I was so excited that we actually pulled the car over to take a picture of the town sign.

Unfortunately, the weather had other plans.

The day was cold, rainy, and gray. We had an early morning tour scheduled and planned to meet up afterward with some friends of our neighbors back home, who had connected us before our trip. We arrived early, grabbed a coffee, and wandered around town. Even in the rain, Assisi felt immaculate and charming—almost like a movie set.

The tour started right on time in a downpour. About ten minutes in, while walking down a hill of slick stone streets, I slipped and fell. That was the moment the day took a very different turn.

Sign marking the entrance to Assisi, Italy, indicating it as the City of Saint Francis and a UNESCO World Heritage site, with nearby towns listed.
Narrow cobblestone street lined with stone houses and potted plants under a cloudy sky.
A rustic wooden door with decorative ironwork, set in a stone wall. Flower pots with colorful plants are placed at the base of the door, while a stone pathway leads up to it.
A cobblestone street winding downhill between rustic stone buildings, lined with flower pots. In the background, rolling green hills and a cloudy sky are visible.
A narrow cobblestone street flanked by stone buildings, featuring green and yellow flags hanging between them, with street signs and two trash bins visible.
Narrow stone alley with residential buildings, pots of plants, and a staircase leading upwards.
A wooden spinning wheel and various wooden tools positioned against a stone wall, with greenery and flowers visible in the background.

These were all taken before the tour & subsequent fall. If you haven’t already read the blog Daren wrote about the ER experience, you can find it here: An Unexpected Encounter with Socialized Medicine

The fall completely threw my vestibular system out of balance. My tailbone hurt beyond measure, and I was dizzy and nauseated for the rest of the day. That evening, all I could really manage was a quiet dinner at the hotel restaurant before heading to bed.

The next morning, I woke up feeling surprisingly clear-headed. Most of the dizziness and nausea had passed. My tailbone still hurt terribly, but resting wasn’t likely to fix it, so we decided on a very slow and mindful visit to Perugia.

Perugia is an ancient hilltop city with roots stretching back to the Etruscans. Massive stone walls, medieval streets, hidden stairways, and panoramic views are everywhere. The city sits so high above the surrounding landscape that a network of escalators helps visitors reach the historic center. The main square is very expansive and ancient-feeling, with a medieval town hall and incredible cathedral. We wandered the narrow, ancient streets and were particularly amazed at a huge Etruscan (pre-Roman) arch, built in the 3rd century BC through which cars still pass today to enter the city center. It’s a very vertical city with steps, escalators, and lots of hills. The views of the surrounding Umbrian countryside were incredible.

If you haven’t yet read Koji’s blog about our Italian adventure, this is where he experienced his very first escalator ride and felt the need to get his own voice involved in our blogs and tell the world about his experience and adventures too!

The Italy Situation: A Dog’s Perspective

Perugia is also famous for truffles and chocolate. Naturally, we had to stop at what appeared to be the flagship Perugina store. There were chocolate flavors we’d never seen before, and it was impossible to leave empty-handed.

For lunch, we found a Michelin-recommended restaurant, Il Guirista, just a few steps from the main piazza. It was situated down a small side street beneath stone buildings and shaded terraces. The setting felt quintessentially Umbrian—simple, relaxed, and beautiful without trying too hard.

A scenic plaza in a historic Italian town, featuring ancient stone architecture, a fountain, and people walking under a partly cloudy sky.
Facade of a historic stone building with gothic windows and a clock tower, featuring people walking in front.
A bustling street scene in an Italian town, featuring historic buildings and a variety of people walking along a stone pathway, with cloudy skies above.
A historic plaza featuring a decorative fountain surrounded by classical architecture, with people walking and stone buildings in the background.
Entrance of 'Il Giurista' restaurant with a sign displaying its name and a historical image, featuring decorative boards and a street number 30.
A scenic view of a historic town with traditional architecture under a cloudy sky, overlooking green hills and mountains.
A woman wearing a bright red jacket and sunglasses stands under an archway with decorative columns, while a musician appears partially visible in the background, playing an accordion. People walk through the plaza beyond the archways.
A panoramic view of a picturesque town with historic buildings, a clock tower, and surrounding hills under a partly cloudy sky.
Interior view of a gift shop featuring displays of souvenirs and colorful decorations. The shop has blue flooring, wooden accents, and bright lighting, creating an inviting atmosphere.
A narrow cobblestone street lined with historic buildings, featuring a clear blue sky with scattered clouds. People walking, including a person with a dog on a leash, and storefronts visible on the left side.
A historic square featuring a fountain and stone buildings, with people walking around under a cloudy sky.
Facade of a historic building featuring a grand staircase, intricate stonework, and sculptures of horses on the facade, under a cloudy sky.
A wide view of a historic piazza featuring stone buildings and a cobblestone floor, with people walking under a cloudy sky.
Narrow alleyway with stone steps leading down, surrounded by brick walls adorned with potted plants and flowers, showcasing colorful doorways and vibrant decor in the distance.
Historic stone archway with ancient inscriptions, framed by tall stone walls and a clear blue sky.
A historic stone building with a wooden door and large windows under a cloudy sky, surrounded by other buildings and greenery.
View of rooftops and buildings under a blue sky with clouds, overlooking green hills in a scenic landscape.
View of a medieval town with stone buildings and tile roofs, surrounded by lush greenery and mountains under a partly cloudy sky.
A person walking a black dog down a narrow cobblestone street, flanked by ancient stone buildings, under a clear blue sky.
View through an archway showing a quaint street leading to a picturesque town with buildings and greenery in the background.
A chalkboard sign for 'La Pecora Nera polpette & Co.' featuring an Italian quote about grandmothers and meatballs, with an arrow indicating the entrance.
A person walking down a stone staircase with a black dog on a leash in a narrow alleyway.
View of a narrow street leading downwards under a stone bridge, with pedestrians walking and colorful buildings visible in the background.
Panoramic view of a picturesque Italian village with colorful buildings nestled among green trees under a cloudy sky.
Narrow alleyway with stone walls, arched ceilings, and hanging lanterns. Visible signs on a post and a faint light at the end of the passage.
A picturesque view of a medieval town with terracotta rooftops, bell towers, and dark, cloudy skies in the background, surrounded by rolling hills.
A scenic park featuring a small pond with a decorative stone sculpture of a seated figure, surrounded by lush greenery, trees, and flower beds. Benches are visible in the background, with people strolling nearby.
Historic building facade decorated with Italian, European Union, and regional flags, featuring classical architectural details and large doorways.

While in Umbria, we also made a stop in Deruta, another postcard-perfect hill town with incredible views. Deruta is world-famous for its ceramics, and that stop turned out to be surprisingly meaningful for us.

Back in 2022, Daren and I visited Madrid and Barcelona. We fell in love with espresso culture and spent much of the trip searching for colorful ceramic espresso cups. Spain has incredible pottery, but somehow I never found exactly what I was looking for.

After we returned home, I found a set online that I loved. They were made in Deruta, Italy. I thought they were a little too expensive and decided not to buy them. A few days later, Daren surprised me with them as an anniversary gift. That Christmas, he even found a kitchen clock that matched.

So imagine our surprise when we realized we were standing in the very town where those beloved cups were made.

Ceramic plaque depicting the coat of arms of Deruta, featuring a blue shield with a tower, a golden lion, and surrounded by an olive and oak leaf wreath, with the text 'COMUNE DI DERUTA' at the bottom.
A colorful mosaic depiction of Saint Francis, wearing a brown robe, standing among flowers and birds, with a serene landscape background.
A charming narrow street in an Italian town, featuring colorful buildings, a decorative tiled wall, and brick-paved sidewalks.
A vibrant storefront featuring decorative pottery and colorful ceramic tiles, with potted red flowers adorning the steps. The entrance is framed by an arched doorway and showcases traditional artwork inside.
Colorful buildings with decorative tiles and wooden shutters in a quaint street, featuring a 'BAR' sign at the entrance.
A historic stone bell tower with arched windows and a wooden door, surrounded by small buildings and potted plants, under a cloudy sky.
An old stone water fountain with a floral design on one side, standing beside a tree, featuring a spout and a basin below.
Two smiling individuals posing for a selfie outdoors with a scenic view of green hills and a partly cloudy sky in the background.
A textured brick wall adorned with various decorative ceramic plates and tiles, showcasing a colorful mix of patterns and designs, with an iron grate window near the center.
A man stands in front of a wall covered with various decorative plates and tiles, examining the artwork.
A decorative plaque featuring a coat of arms with a black lion on a golden shield, surrounded by colorful floral designs and a knight's helmet, with the word 'GRAZIA' written in a ribbon below.
Welcome sign for Città di Deruta featuring a coat of arms with a lion and decorative border.
Decorative tiled stairs ascending through lush greenery, with a metal railing and a street lamp visible to the side.
Colorful ceramic tiles with decorative patterns displaying the text 'CERAMICHE EL FRATE DERUTA' on brick steps.
Close-up of decorative ceramic tiles featuring colorful patterns and designs on stairs, with a focus on intricate detailing and vibrant colors.

Then of course we had to go back to Assisi. It was so much more pleasant in the sunshine. Assisi is an incredibly beautiful city that leaves you feeling like you have stepped back into the Middle Ages. Everything is ancient, but fully preserved. We really took our time and took in the sights, sounds, and of course the churches. The main church – the Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi is worth the hype of its name. There are two parts to it- the upper part and the lower part. Daren liked the upper/lighter area while I really enjoyed the lower tomb area. It’s gorgeous, well kept and unbelievably spiritual. It’s difficult to visit and not feel the spiritual vibe in the air.

A view of a historic building with multiple arched structures, showcasing detailed stonework. The image captures a sunny day with a clear blue sky and pedestrians in the foreground.
A scenic view of a historic Italian town with stone buildings and a bell tower, surrounded by lush greenery and rolling hills under a blue sky with scattered clouds.
Facade of a historical building with pink and white striped stone, featuring a large circular rose window, set against a clear blue sky. In the foreground, there is a decorative fountain surrounded by people.
A historic church with a large dome and ornate facade, surrounded by people in front and traditional stone buildings in the background under a clear blue sky.
A sunny plaza with stone buildings, flags, and a fountain featuring a lion sculpture. People are walking and sitting at outdoor cafes.
A bustling outdoor plaza with people walking, featuring historic stone buildings, a tall clock tower, and clear blue skies.
A scenic plaza featuring a stone fountain with lion sculptures, surrounded by historic buildings, cafes, and outdoor seating, under a clear blue sky.
Interior view of a grand church featuring ornate, colorful frescoes and a beautifully decorated vaulted ceiling with a blue sky motif.
Stone archway entrance with a decorated ceiling, flanked by trees, leading to a cobblestone street in a historic town.
A narrow stone alley with a view of rolling green hills and mountains in the background, featuring a hanging lantern on the right.
A panoramic view of lush green fields and rolling hills under a bright blue sky with fluffy white clouds, featuring olive trees in the foreground and a stone structure on the right.
A historical building with a tall bell tower surrounded by olive trees, under a clear blue sky.
Interior view of a church featuring high vaulted ceilings, decorative arches, and a large rose window at the end of the hall, with visitors exploring the space.
Entrance to a charming restaurant featuring an archway adorned with hanging potted flowers, a menu board, and wine bottles displayed on barrels.
View of a charming street lined with historic buildings in an Italian town, featuring people walking and blue flags hanging from the buildings under a clear blue sky.
Close-up view of a historical church with a bell tower and intricate rose window, under a clear blue sky.
A quaint street in an Italian town, featuring historic stone buildings adorned with colorful flags and floral decorations. People stroll along the road, with shops displaying various items and a bell tower visible in the background under a clear blue sky.
Narrow alleyway lined with ancient stone buildings, adorned with colorful flags, under a clear blue sky.
A man walking a black dog through a cobblestone street lined with stone buildings and colorful flags. Numerous people are seen strolling in the background, enjoying the quaint atmosphere.

And of course we had to revisit the scene of where I fell.

A pile of wooden planks leaning against a wall in a historic street, with buildings on either side and a car parked nearby.

The trip wrapped up with a visit with friends from Branford who were in Italy for their daughter’s wedding. We met some of their friends, shared stories, and spent time reflecting on our experiences as people connected to Italy in different ways—some born there, and some of us first-generation- first born daughters and all the shared laughs and pains of that experience!

A group of friends enjoying time together outdoors on a terrace, smiling and sitting on comfortable furniture surrounded by greenery.
A scenic view of a green and golden field with distant hills and a partly cloudy sky.
Scenic view from a rustic house featuring lush green hills and a cloudy sky. A comfortable lounge chair is set up on the grass, surrounded by trees.
Four people standing in a garden, smiling and posing for the camera. The background features greenery and a stone wall.
Four people standing together in a garden, smiling. Lush greenery and flowers in the background.
A scenic view of rolling hills and vineyards under a partly cloudy sky, framed by tree branches in the foreground.

Back in Gaville, we unpacked, caught up on laundry, and unfortunately had a difficult week.

Our beloved cat Cookie, who was back home with my daughter Gabby, was diagnosed with Stage 4 kidney disease and was put to sleep a few days later. If you want to check out the Instagram post I put together for him you can find it here: https://www.instagram.com/esterina.anderson/p/DYpR8ABikho/

Around the same time, Koji had a health scare that sent us to the veterinarian several days in a row. Thankfully, after a substantial round of medication, he is doing well. I’m also happy to report that my tailbone is finally about 80% recovered.

We slowly settled back into our routine. By “we,” I mostly mean Daren, who jumped back into work. I spent my days writing, making art, baking, lounging by the pool, exercising, walking, running, and practicing yoga. We visited some neighboring areas & towns. We’ve cooked a lot of fun meals and fallen into the habit of enjoying a non-alcoholic Aperol Spritz in the evenings.

A smiling woman relaxing in a swimming pool, leaning on the edge with arms crossed. The pool is surrounded by tile flooring and lounge chairs.
A scenic view of a picturesque Italian village built on a hillside, featuring colorful buildings and lush greenery, with a rocky gorge and a stream visible below.
A smiling couple poses for a selfie under a green canopy with patio umbrellas in the background.
Two colorful cocktails in glasses, one reddish and one orange, served on a table with a scenic outdoor background featuring greenery and distant hills.
A freshly baked pie with a lattice crust, filled with a dark fruit filling, presented on a decorative plate in a kitchen setting.
A weathered road sign for 'San Donato' with additional signs pointing to nearby locations: 'Loc. InipeTTa', 'Gran Tornello', and 'Loc. La Sughera', set against a lush green background.
Scenic view of a hillside village surrounded by lush greenery and olive trees under a clear blue sky.
A collection of colorful yarn skeins arranged in rows, featuring shades of green, yellow, brown, burgundy, and tan, with labels indicating the brand and type of yarn.

Allora – (as the Italians say), we are having so much fun! We are now on our next adventure. Before making the trip to Liguria where we are now we spent quite a bit of time planning our summer travels, and we are incredibly excited about what’s ahead.

Stay Tuned!

Thanks for taking the time to read. We’d love to hear your thoughts – Please feel free to leave a comment <3

We absolutely love hearing what you all have to say!