Veneto & Friuli Venezia Giulia

Posted on by Esterina Anderson

It’s been a few weeks since we last blogged. Mostly because we’ve been traveling, but also because it’s been so hot that it’s harder to be motivated to do much more than sit in front of a fan (yes, a fan, because A/C is a lot less common here than in the US)!

Before I write about our recent trip, I want to step back and tell you about the regions of Italy.

Italy is divided into 20 regions which are, in some ways, like our states. Many of these regions you’ve probably heard about, like Tuscany, Campagna, Piedmont, or Sicily. Five of the regions have a sort of special status. They are fully part of the country of Italy, but they are considered “autonomous regions”. Unlike Italy’s other regions, these five have a little more control over their own affairs because of their geography, history, or cultural identity. Some have strong French, German, or Slovene influences. Others are islands with strong local traditions and culture. The reasons for this special status are historical and cultural.

I was excited to learn about these regions. I am not technically able to travel outside of Italy without risking my residency in Italy. I’ve been here more than the 90 days that are allowed in the Schengen countries of Europe. Because I have a pending citizenship application, I am allowed to stay in Italy past the 90 days. But other countries like France or Germany might not see it that way. So we’ve essentially made peace with the idea of staying put in Italy until things are “official”. Poor us. But in truth, I have been getting a bit tired of Italian food. Hard to believe. And much of what we’ve seen is starting to look a bit familiar; piazza, Roman ruins, hilltop castle. It’s all incredibly beautiful, but I was starting to crave something just a little different. Perhaps these autonomous regions would do the trick. Maybe a visit to one of them would be like leaving the country without actually leaving the country.

Two of the five are a little harder for us to get to—Sicily and Sardinia. We may make it to Sicily this winter when it’s cooler, but Sardinia, while I’d love to go, just might not be in the cards. The other three are close enough to make easy road trips.

So we started out with a trip to Valle d’Aosta a few weeks ago. We wrote about the trip itself, but we not much about the culture. I was genuinely excited as we crossed into this special region. I was hoping to see something a little different and, even more importantly, eat something a little different. The architecture changed almost immediately. The towns we visited looked more like Swiss Alpine villages—which makes perfect sense since it borders Switzerland.

I couldn’t wait for dinner.

Unfortunately, we arrived at our hotel in Courmayeur a little late and many places were already closed. We ended up at a small restaurant that mostly served pizza and the usual Italian staples. It did have fondue on the menu. Fondue and polenta were about the only things that felt new (and honestly, polenta isn’t exactly that “new”). And the fondue came with the standard cured meats for dipping, and the rest of the menu followed the familiar antipasti, primi, secondi, and contorni format. The other restaurants we looked at were much the same—maybe one or two dishes that weren’t on menus elsewhere in Italy, but not much beyond that. The homes and building definitely looked different, and the mountain scenery was a major change, but the food was solidly “Italian”.

So last week we set out for the regions of Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia. The latter is one is another of Italy’s five special autonomous regions.

Below is a photo of the Italian regions. The pins are where we have pin and the blue circles highlight the 5 special regions.

VERONA

When we got to Verona, I was seriously surprised at how much international stuff there was. There was an international pharmacy that specializes in helping foreigners. There was food other than Italian! Of course Italian food still dominated the scene, but there were more options than we’d found in Florence. It wasn’t always obvious, either. What looked like a typical Italian restaurant often had burgers, wings, salmon, potatoes… no Thai or deli sandwiches, but things… options. Exciting! You can tell from my writing that I really am craving some non-Italian food!

Verona itself was just… pretty. I get why Shakespeare set Romeo and Juliet there. We used an app for a self-guided walking tour and were quite impressed with the history that was visible and beautifully preserved. When strolling through Verona you move seamlessly amongst well preserved Roman ruins, including a large coliseum, Medieval buildings, elegant palazzos, and lots of lovely piazzas. The town felt vibrant and well preserved without feeling run down.The squares were probably the coziest and most inviting we’ve seen yet. Other cities have squares that are more architecturally impressive, but Verona had a warmth to it that we just loved!

One medieval square had an ancient fountain from which Koji was delighted to take a drink, and a host of buildings colorfully decorated wiht frescos from the 1400’s. It contained a market, just as it had 600 years ago, although todays “market” featured refrigerator magnets, hand held fans, and granitas, rather than mutton or grain.

My favorite evening was one when we left Koji behind in the hotel to recover from the heat, and just wander the city as dusk fell. We stumbled onto Castelvecchio just as the sun was setting and slowly walked across an ancient medieval bridge that connected the castle to the other side of the river. It was truly magical. Unlike some of the other castles we’ve visited, this one felt like a place people had actually lived in—the kind of castle you imagine in fairy tales. It even had a moat and a drawbridge. We didn’t rush back. Instead, we meandered along the river, enjoying in the fading light and watching people enjoy the cooler evening air. Magical!

We thought two nights might be too much for Verona. Instead, we left wishing we’d stayed longer and are already hoping to come back.

TREVISO

Next we went on to try out our first stay at an agriturismo. Think of it as somewhere between a bed & breakfast, an AirBnB, and a farm stay. There are agriturismos all over Italy. Many are working farms that have converted part of their property into guest accommodations, often serving food made from ingredients they grow or produce themselves. They’re scattered throughout the Italian countryside and are a great way to experience a quieter side of Italy.

I was not expecting air conditioning, a large space, or almost anything really—and whoa what a surprise! It was hands down one of the nicest places we’ve stayed. This agriturismo was part of a working family winery making Proseco, along with a few red and white wine varietals. We literally walked out of our room and into a vineyard. And it was inexpensive as heck! It wasn’t close to much, so driving was a must, but it was absolutely perfect as a stop between cities.

Our main objective in coming to this part of Veneto was to check out Treviso and, of course, to try tiramisu. What we didn’t realize is that we would discover unexpectedly, one of the most beautiful regions we’ve seen in Italy. But first, Treviso.

Treviso is sometimes called “Little Venice” because it has canals that wind through parts of the historic center, although on a much smaller scale than its famous neighbor. More importantly, from our perspective was that it is widely credited as the birthplace of tiramisu, with several cafés claiming to have created the dessert in the 1970s. Whether that’s completely true or not, it was reason enough to visit.

Well, a mini Venice is a S-T-R-E-T-C-H, but I can see how one might say that. The canals were scenic and beautiful in their own right, but had little in common with those in Venice. I actually think Treviso would be wise to drop the comparison to Venice and instead just promote itself as a beautiful town on a river with many lovely little canals running through the historic town center. Think swans and weeping willows rather than gondolas and serenades.

We did our research ahead of time on the place where tiramisu was supposedly “invented”: Le Becchieria, an old and respected restaurant that now, with its tiramisu fame, has added a bakery café for those seeking this famed dessert.

I had a twinge of missing my dad here. For some unknown reason, when he met Daren back in 2010 over breakfast one morning at my brother’s house, he was already talking about what we’d have for dinner. Like many Italians, food was never very far from his mind. He didn’t know Daren from Adam, but somehow decided Daren liked Fra Diavolo. Later that evening, when we picked up Italian takeout, there was the Fra Diavolo for Daren and tiramisu because, apparently, “Daren & Gabby like it.”

This was quite funny to all of us at the time—my dad deciding who liked what. The funny part was that Daren had never even had Fra Diavolo before that night, although he did end up really liking it. Gabby, on the other hand, never liked tiramisu, and while Daren certainly wouldn’t turn up his nose at it, he’d never have called it a favorite. Well now, after nearly five months in Italy, Daren claims that tiramisu is in fact one of his favorite deserts, and the one at this little restaurant in the small town of Treviso, is the best!

So here we were in the birthplace of tiramisu… and I thought of Pops. As I said, I’m not a fan, but this was truly the best tiramisu I’d ever had. We usually share desserts, but we each got our own piece, and it was 100% worth the calories—and getting completely full.

Later that day we took a drive and discovered the unexpected highlight of the trip: The Proseco Hills, the place where the famous Italian bubbly is made.

The hills between Asolo and Valdobbiadene are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognized for their centuries-old vineyards and the unique landscape shaped by generations of winemakers. This is the heart of Prosecco country. While wines labeled “Prosecco” can be grown and produced from a wide range of places across north-eastern Italy, only Prosecco from two small regions, Valdobbiadene and Asolo, can be designated “DOCG”, indicating the highest quality and strict adherence to the ancient methods of growth and production.

We drove through several of the towns. Each one we came to was more beautiful than the last. The views were drop-dead amazing. Rolling hills covered with vines. Proseco grape clusters hanging down from the vines. The Alps themselves looming in the north. Farms, churches, and houses dotting the hilly landscape. We had the windows down, Koji had his head out the window, it was the golden hour, and it will forever be one of the more memorable drives I’ve taken in my life. Daren mapped out the entire route, and I’m so thankful he did.

TRIESTE

Our last stop was the autonomous region of Friuli Venezia Giulia where we hopefully would find some hearty Eastern European food. On the way, we stopped in Aquileia, another UNESCO World Heritage Site. Once one of the biggest and wealthiest cities of the Roman Empire, Aquileia is home to remarkably preserved Roman ruins, one of the world’s first Christian churches, and among the largest and best-preserved mosaic floors in the world. It’s considered one of Italy’s most important archaeological sites.

And yet… it was here, walking down the street in the burning sun on our way to another church, and I thought, I don’t think I can walk into one more dimly lit church, crane my neck to look at another fresco, and pretend to care why or how it got there. I had officially hit historical site overload.

So I sat outside with Koji in the shade and urged Daren to go geek out on this stuff. According to Daren, the mosaic floor was truly spectacular. The basilica was first built in 313 AD, but the current structure dates from the 11th century. However, the floor is the thing that visitors come to see. You enter the church on a raised plexiglass floor and look down on an enormous expanse of mosaic floor perfectly preserved from the 300’s, showing scenes from the bible as well as animals and fish and complex Roman designs. It’s amazing to learn that some of the original structure was destroyed by the Huns, yes the Huns, but the floor remained intact.

After Daren finished viewing the church, we were getting hot, hungry and cranky, so after an unremarkable (truly terrible) lunch, we hopped back in the car and headed for Trieste.

Trieste has an interesting historical and cultural background. It only became part of Italy after WWI. Prior to that, it was a major port city in the Austro-Hungarian empire where goulash, schnitzel, and beer were more likely to be found than pasta, pizza, and red wine. It’s history, culture, buildings, and traditions share more in common with Vienna and the Balkans than with Italy.

We arrived smack in the middle of a Sunday afternoon in July, not far from the famous Miramare Castle. Right on the water at a cute(ish) hotel on the Adriatic where it looked like Spring Break: Trieste Edition.

There was no beach to speak of—just a few miles of stone and concrete waterfront where hundreds of people were stretched out in the sun or under the trees. There were stairways leading down to the water and the whole city was swimming, or so it seemed. It was a scene! I wasn’t sure I was going to like this place. Too crazy? Too busy?

So we headed into the city and left Koji back at the hotel enjoying what turned out to be the best thing about it—the air conditioning. Naturally, we started with gelato and coffee. We went straight to the recommended gelato shop, but the line was so long you had to take a number, so we skipped it and found another place in the main square where we could sit in the shade.

The gelato was more like ice cream, and my Americano (I think) tasted like classic drip coffee. I don’t know for sure, but it smelled and tasted unlike any coffee I’ve had so far in Italy. I loved every drop of it. Maybe things were different in Trieste. Afterward we wandered through the canal area and walked up to Castello di San Giusto for views over the city.

When we got back, the crowds had thinned enough to allow us to walk along the waterfront with a dog, so we took Koji for a walk. For dinner we stopped at one of the permanent food kiosks along the way. I wasn’t expecting much, but my sandwich was one of the best sandwiches I’ve had in a long time. Daren got a burger that he said was great, and we finished with Nutella crêpes.

By evening the crowds had thinned further, the air had cooled, and suddenly Trieste felt completely different. The place started to grow on me.

The next morning I went for one of the most pleasant runs. Monday morning was a completely different world; sun, cooler temperatures, and no crowds. Later we grabbed Koji and walked down to Miramare Castle. That ended up being my favorite place in all of Trieste. With my historical site overload still in full force, I insisted Daren tour the castle while Koji and I enjoyed the shade and people-watching. I went back by myself the next day and wandered the grounds for a long time.

We went back into the city one more time before heading home, but I think we’re officially “citied” out for a while. Instead, we spent most of the afternoon reading and talking along the waterfront before ending the day at an American restaurant that looked like something straight out of the Old West.

You’ll likely sense a bit of travel exhaustion if you read between the lines above. We are incredibly lucky to be able to have these experiences, and we have seen and done so much. But there is such a thing as too much of a good thing, and I think we may have hit that point during this trip. It’s not black and white. We loved so many of the things we saw and did, but some of the little annoyances that you either don’t perceive, or don’t assign much weight to on a brief vacation, can start to grate a bit more after many months. It’s also very apparent that the heat is has a major negative impact on our enjoyment. It’s just very hard to escape the hot sun and the air conditioning that we are so accustomed to in the U.S is not as ubiquitous over here. That is where we are. We are taking a bit of time off back “home” in Gaville to rest up. But we’ll be back on the road next month with a trip down south to see the family and spend some time on the beach.

Until we blog again!

Piedmont Region of Italy

Posted on by Esterina Anderson

By Esterina Anderson

Following directly after our last blog in Valle d’Aosta https://esterinaanderson.com/2026/06/21/italy-has-more-to-offer-than-hilltop-towns-and-great-cities/

After the rugged beauty of Valle d’Aosta, our next stretch through northern Italy brought an entirely different rhythm—lake life, elegant city streets, and rolling wine country.

This leg of the trip felt softer. Less dramatic mountains, more charm and leisure. More time by the water, slower mornings, and places that surprised us in ways we didn’t expect.

As we left the Alps of Valle d’Aosta behind us, the flat fertile plains of Piedmont spread out before us. This is a land of serious agriculture. It felt more like Kansas than Italy with the miles and miles of cornfields. Only here there were also sunflowers, rice and lots of hay. This is one of the areas where risotto and polenta come from. 

As we turned North into the Lake region, the farmland gave way to foothills- the Alps towering in the distance once again. 

Once in Lake Orta it felt like we landed in a tiny vacation paradise where people were clearly there simply to enjoy the lake, slow, swim, rest, and soak it all in.

Our hotel had an incredible infinity pool overlooking the water, and from there it was also possible to step right into the lake itself. As ocean people, swimming in truly fresh water felt both strange and exciting.

Orta San Giulio felt like something out of a storybook. Narrow winding streets lined with charming little shops opened into the main piazza right on the water.

We wandered through the streets & shops and ended up purchasing a small original painting from an artist who works exclusively with palette knives instead of brushes. He was running the small shop so we had the chance to meet him, which always makes a piece of art feel more special. 

The town is also home to the Sacro Monte di Orta, a UNESCO World Heritage Site dedicated to St. Francis of Assisi. The sacred mount consists of 20 chapels built between the 16th and 18th centuries, each filled with frescoes and life-sized sculptures depicting moments from the life of St. Francis.

We spent a leisurely few hours exploring all 20 chapels with Koji. It was obscenely hot, and about halfway through we found the perfect open-air café where we cooled off and rested before finishing the walk.

https://youtu.be/-oHBP8MpHoE?feature=shared

Another day, we took the short ferry ride from the piazza to Isola San Giulio, the tiny island that sits in the center of the lake.

The island is home to a basilica, a Benedictine abbey, and a small community of cloistered nuns. Cars are not allowed, and the atmosphere is meant to be quiet and contemplative.

One of the most special parts of visiting the island was walking the “Path of Silence and Meditation,” a peaceful path that circles the island. Along the route are signs with reflections on silence, stillness, and contemplation.

The walk itself is short. It was also so meaningful that we walked it three times.

The first time, we just took in the stillness. The second time, we slowed down even more. After that second lap, Daren noticed there were additional reflections written on the backs of each sign. So naturally, we walked it a third time to take those in too. Koji cooled himself in the water while we mostly just honored the quiet.

https://youtu.be/SSD9uz_iTsQ?feature=shared

Our next stop was Turin. But before heading there, we made a small detour to Sacro Monte della Santissima Trinità near Lake Maggiore. After loving Sacro Monte in Orta, we thought another sacred mount would be worth exploring.

Unfortunately, this one felt entirely different. It felt isolated, neglected, and depressing. Still beautiful in its own way, but we didn’t stay long. 

Instead, we headed to Cannobio near the Swiss border in search of lunch. It ended up being more of a functional stop than a memorable one. The town was pleasant enough, with colorful flags stretching along the waterfront and hints of its international location near Switzerland.

From there, we made our way to Turin. My cousin Vinny and his wife Katia live there, and we had made plans to meet up. They were waiting for us at our hotel when we arrived.

Turin was nothing like we expected. I had heard it described as “Little Paris,” but I really couldn’t picture just how elegant and charming it would feel. The city center is massive, beautifully maintained, and at times it barely felt like Italy.

There are dozens of piazzas, grand tree-lined boulevards, statues, fountains, and endless porticos that stretch for miles across the city. Turin was the first capital of unified Italy, and you can feel that history in its grandeur and architecture. It feels sophisticated, and refined.

One thing Turin is especially known for is Bicerin, a traditional drink dating back to the 18th century made with espresso, drinking chocolate, and cream served in layers in a small glass. The name means “little glass” in the local dialect. Of course, we had to try it.

As a funny side note, I happened to be reading the The Italian Daughter on my Kindle during this part of the trip. It wasn’t my favorite book, but I enjoyed it enough to keep going—and it turned out to be a strange little coincidence because part of the story touches on the history of Nutella and Piedmont’s chocolate traditions.

When we found a cozy café to try bicerin, sitting there was a pastry called a pain au chocolat—essentially the French cousin of a chocolate croissant.

I wasn’t expecting much. My entire life, Italian pastries around family gatherings were everywhere, and truthfully I never loved most of them. I also wasn’t expecting to be blown away by something that looked like a simple chocolate pastry. 

I was wrong and it was incredible. Warm, buttery, flaky, and filled with just the right amount of chocolate—so good! 

The bicerin was equally delicious. Rich, and indulgent. It was so special, unique & interesting. If you find yourself in Turin and are curious it’s one of those things that lives up to its hype. 

Turin is filled with beautiful buildings, fascinating sites, and so much history. Vinny and Katia gave us a wonderful overview of the city. Unfortunately, the day we planned to explore more of the major sites, the weather had other plans. Those porticos ended up being a game changer!

Instead, we ended up back at their home for a lovely meal and even more meaningful conversation. Vinny is a little older than me, and although I saw him often when we were kids, age differences feel much bigger when you’re young. 

It was really special to discover how much we had in common—how our family experiences shaped us in similar ways, how much we understood without needing to explain, and simply how much Daren & I genuinely enjoyed being with them. I only wish we lived closer.

Turin quickly became one of our highest recommendations—and one we still feel we haven’t fully explored. I suspect we’ll be back.

The final stop on this two-week trip was the Langhe Valley in Piedmont. The Langhe is known for rolling vineyard-covered hills, prestigious wines like Barolo and Barbaresco, and world-famous hazelnuts. The landscape is stunning—gentler and softer than Tuscany’s rugged beauty, but beautiful in its own way.

Vineyards and hazelnut orchards stretch as far as the eye can see. It’s also the birthplace of Nutella, something I only learned because of the book I was reading. Naturally, we expected to find some sort of Nutella celebration in the area. Truly surprisingly there is nothing, not even a fridge magnet.

From what I read, Ferrero has historically been very private and protective of both its brand and its famously secret recipe. They don’t really get into tourism or public spectacle around Nutella the way you might expect.

There were hiking opportunities everywhere, with trails weaving through vineyards and rolling hills. But it was too hot to enjoy them – not that we didn’t try! We did and gave up. 

Instead, we spent much of our time enjoying the hotel, the pool, and the surrounding views.

Not every stop becomes a favorite. Some places we immediately loved and others can end of being a place to rest. 

Lake Orta gave us peace and the lake vibe. 
Turin gave us a city vibe and family connection. 
The Langhe gave us beauty and rest.

This was a great exploration of the Piedmont region. As long as it was and as happy as I am to be headed back home to Tuscany, I kind of wish it was just a little longer. 

Ciao Amici!

A Milestone & Some Mountains

Posted on by Esterina Anderson

I was afraid to say anything last week for fear of jinxing it, but I had my Italian citizenship appointment last Tuesday. It was an unexpected surprise, and in this instance alone my immigration attorney was worth his weight in gold. I should have been able to register as a resident nearly from the moment we set foot in Italy, but due to a myriad of issues, the comune (city hall) somehow lost my residency application. We are still waiting for one final document from the U.S., but because the comune dropped the ball, my lawyer was able to negotiate an appointment anyway.

Below is a photo of me with the mountain of paperwork I’ve been gathering since 2018, just before heading down to the comune. From here, I’m still awaiting approval of the residency application, and I still need to submit that final document. Assuming all goes well, citizenship should hopefully be completed in the coming months. Fingers crossed.

Right after the appointment, we hopped into the car and headed NORTH. In case you haven’t heard, Europe is in the middle of a serious heat wave, so escaping to the mountains sounded pretty perfect.

Our first stop was Valle d’Aosta, and wow—it felt very different from the rest of Italy we’ve experienced so far. Tucked into the far northwest corner of the country and bordered by both France and Switzerland, Valle d’Aosta is Italy’s smallest region. It’s also one of Italy’s five autonomous regions, meaning it has more self-governance due to its unique geography and history. French and Italian are both official languages here, and you can feel that blend everywhere—from the road signs, to the architecture, to the food.

And the food? Definitely mountain food in the best possible way. Think polenta, fontina cheese, wild game, cured meats, and hearty dishes designed to fuel hikers and skiers. I’m not a cured meat gal, but I can definitely appreciate it!

We spent four absolutely beautiful days in this mountain region—mostly hiking, a little shopping, and of course eating.

The first night we arrived fairly late since we got a delayed start after the comune appointment. We dropped our bags at the hotel and headed straight out for dinner. It was late—which is when Italians eat—and for once we fit right in. We are usually the first people at a restaurant when they open at 7:30, but this night the town was buzzing.

We had to try a polenta dish, of course. We also met a lovely couple from New York City and spent the evening enjoying easy conversation in English, which always feels comforting after always making attempts at piecing together Italian.

The next day we headed up to Monte Bianco (or Mont Blanc in French). There is a cable car that takes you up the mountain to Pointe Helbronner, one of the highest accessible points in Italy. Pets are allowed, so naturally Koji joined the adventure. This was a new experience for all of us. We went all the way up to 11,371 feet, the highest altitude myself, Daren, or Koji had ever been. When we stepped out into the open air at that height, it was exhilarating. One of us may have cried a little from sheer amazement.

The temperature was incredible too—just 9°C (48°F). After the heat we’ve been living in, it felt absolutely amazing. We were surrounded by serious hikers and climbers preparing for much bigger adventures than ours. The station sits so close to the French border that part of the complex is essentially in France. The border crossing area was closed, which was fine by me since while waiting for citizenship I’m not supposed to cross borders anyway.

After reaching the highest point, we took the cable car down to the midpoint where there were easier trails, family areas, and food. We had lunch with a spectacular view and then went for a leisurely hike to a beautiful waterfall with fresh glacial water flowing through.

That evening we wanted something hearty and casual, and there was a burger place right in the middle of Courmayeur. Daren and I had fantastic burgers with fresh fontina cheese and fries. Koji got a few scraps. None of us had had burgers in ages and they were SO good. We took a long walk afterward to burn off some of the indulgence and explored even more of the beautiful town.

The following day we laced up our hiking shoes and headed toward one of the local rifugi. A rifugio is basically a mountain refuge or alpine hut—part shelter, part restaurant, and sometimes part lodging for hikers tackling longer routes through the mountains. They’re a huge part of hiking culture in the Alps.

The trail itself wasn’t supposed to be very long, so we brought Koji. But when we arrived near the trailhead, the road was closed for 3 km leading up to it. No problem, we thought. It was hot, but there were plenty of glacial streams and shaded areas to cool down. One of the coolest parts was passing cows and sheep everywhere.

When we finally reached the trailhead, the sign said 50 minutes. I honestly thought that had to be for slow people. Everyone around us had hiking poles and serious gear. We had a backpack, hiking shoes, and Koji—who, of course, was completely naked. The trail was marked level E. I’m actually glad I didn’t know what that meant beforehand because I may have chickened out.

We instantly understood the 50-minute estimate.

The climb was steep. Really steep. But it was also jaw-droppingly beautiful. We let Koji off leash and he had the time of his life despite the heat and climb. He was an absolute trooper.

When we finally reached the rifugio, it was completely worth it! This particular rifugio sits fairly close to the Swiss border. It’s about halfway up to the border crossing trail. Before leaving in the morning, we considered continuing all the way up, but with an aging dog, tired legs, and the extra 3 km to and from the car, we wisely decided halfway was enough.

We rewarded ourselves with a hearty lunch of more polenta and cinghiale (wild boar), then spent time cooling down and taking in the views. Hikers from all over the world were there in various stages of their journeys. Languages filled the air, though French and Italian were the most common.

After resting and refueling, we were ready to head back down. The descent was much faster and much easier. Koji slowed down during the last couple of kilometers, but he did so well. Such a good boy!!

The next day we needed a break from the mountains and rugged hiking, so we headed to the capital city of Aosta. We did a little shopping, gelato eating, lunching, and site seeing.

Aosta is often called the Rome of the Alps because ancient Roman ruins are scattered all throughout the city. Unlike Rome, though, there’s almost no heavy tourism around them, which makes it feel especially cool.

The Roman theater was under renovation, but we still managed to peek through construction barriers. We also saw arches, gates, and the Criptoportico Forense, an underground Roman structure that once surrounded the sacred area of the forum and helped support the complex above. The whole day was steamy hot.

On the way back to Courmayeur, we stopped in the town of Fénis to see its famous castle.

Castello di Fénis is exactly what comes to mind when you picture a fairy-tale castle—towers, battlements, stone walls, and all. Built in the 13th and 14th centuries, it’s one of the best-preserved medieval castles in the region and somehow looks even more magical in person.

That last night, we left Koji relaxing in the cool hotel while Daren and I returned to the burger place one last time. After dinner we wandered through town again, this time down side streets and little shortcuts, discovering charming homes, tucked-away parks, and quiet corners we hadn’t seen before.

The next morning, after a brisk run and a complimentary breakfast buffet, we packed the car for the next leg of our trip.

But not before one final stop in Bard.

We wanted to see the impressive Fort Bard, a massive 19th-century fortress built by the House of Savoy on a rocky cliff overlooking the valley. Historically, it guarded one of the most strategic mountain passes into Italy and famously slowed Napoleon’s army for nearly two weeks. It is an imposing structure.

We opted not to tour inside the fort and instead wandered through Bard’s medieval streets and soaked in the atmosphere. Koji seemed especially happy to find a fire hydrant in the middle of a medieval village and drink from one of the old public fountains.

This little town sits close to the border of Piedmont, our next destination. So we said Arrivederci—or Au revoir—to Valle d’Aosta and headed onward to the next adventure.

Thanks for reading! Would love to hear from you too, we love hearing your comments ❤️

To see some video, check out the YouTube video we made of this week –

https://youtu.be/3buB_D3XkrY?feature=shared

Italy Has More to Offer than Hilltop Towns and Great Cities

Posted on by Esterina Anderson

By Daren & Esterina Anderson.

This week Daren and I are both contributing a little something to the Travelouge.

Pinch Me

by Esterina

Yesterday morning was Saturday. Even though we’re no longer working a traditional schedule, we’re still living by—and honoring (and honestly loving)—the rhythm of weekdays and weekends. Daren was making breakfast while I was cutting up fruit when I noticed we had quite a few oranges. On a whim, I squeezed a few and made fresh orange juice. Back home, we’d occasionally have extra oranges, and I’d always think about doing something like that, but it somehow felt like there was never enough time.

It took all of a few minutes. Standing there, I found myself wondering why we hadn’t lived like this before. And then I had one of those “pinch me” moments—realizing once again that I’m living a life I always wanted to live.

This week was full of those moments! We took a short midweek trip to see the lentil flower fields in bloom. Daren will share more about that below, but I want to say how deeply lucky and grateful I felt.

First, because there are so many fewer crowds during the week, and our schedules now allow us to take advantage of that. Second, because we live close enough to experience places like this without needing a major trip. But most importantly, because our lives are so much less hectic now, I am far more present and aware while we’re actually living these moments.

The places we saw this week were breathtaking—fields of flowers stretching beneath mountains that made me feel small and humble in the most beautiful way. Simple lunches. Healthy breakfasts. Enough sleep every night. I’ve never felt healthier or more blessed.

As we navigate this year, we’ve been doing a lot of spiritual reading and having long conversations about how we want to spend the next phase of our lives. I think we both sensed that we needed to step away from our old lives for a while in order to better understand how to become the best versions of ourselves—and how to leave the world a little better than we found it.

Our conversations can range from grand ideas—like giving up every worldly possession and embracing a Francis of Assisi path—to quieter ones, like the life of Dorothea in Middlemarch, where unsung goodness, ordinary kindness, and simple acts of love become their own meaningful legacy.

What I know for certain is this: I want to hold onto beauty, presence, and these little “pinch me” moments. They remind me that I’m living a purposeful life—one where even something as simple as an extra orange doesn’t go to waste, but instead becomes part of the beauty of an ordinary morning.

Take my breath away:

by Daren

I think we both needed to be pinched as we beheld for the first time the Piana di Castelluccio (Plain of Castelluccio). We stood in silence for a moment, staring out over stunning landscape unlike anything we had seen before in Italy. This Italian adventure has been filled with so many stunning and memorable sights, but our trip to the Piana was something different. Much of the grandeur of Italy comes from a blending of natural and human achievement: a walled city perched high above a green valley dotted with cypress trees, or a small town clinging to a ledge overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. The Altopiano was all about nature—a place high above the tree line in the central mountains of the Apennines, where rugged rocky outcroppings and miles of flat green plains meet an endless blue sky.

Yet even here, people have left their mark on the landscape. As we descended from the mountain pass onto the plain, we first noticed a distant sheen of yellow, followed by patches of blue and red. As we got closer, we could see clearly demarcated fields forming a patchwork of colors, almost like a quilt. These were the famed lentil fields of the high plain, and we had arrived just as the flowers were beginning to bloom.

Before this trip, I knew very little about where lentils come from and had no idea the plants produced such delicate flowers. These tiny blooms, spread across thousands of acres of the Piana, create a natural spectacle that relatively few people outside Italy know about. I learned of them through my Coffee Break Italian podcast. One of the early lessons featured an Italian teacher describing the lentil blooms of this little-known region, and I added it to my mental list of places to visit. Since the blooms are at their peak in June and early July, we decided this was the perfect time to see them for ourselves.

We learned that the nearby town of Norcia would make a good base and set out for a two-day visit. Norcia is only about three and a half hours from our home in Gaville, and we stopped in Spoleto along the way after hearing it was worth a visit. We had a sandwich in the piazza overlooking the cathedral and wandered the old streets for a while, but the town felt dreary and dead. Perhaps we caught it on an off day, but it felt tired. The truly terrible sandwiches didn’t help. We moved on.

Norcia, where we stayed for two nights, was a different story entirely. It sits near the geographic center of Italy, where Umbria, Abruzzo, and Le Marche come together. Many Italian towns are famous for a particular product: Modena for balsamic vinegar, Genoa for pesto, Parma for Parmesan cheese, and Norcia, as we soon learned, for norcineria—the art of producing cured meats. Prosciutto di Norcia and a host of other types of cured meat, are considered among the finest in Italy.

We also learned that Norcia was devastated by a major earthquake in 2016, and nearly ten years later the city remains an enormous construction site. Much of it has been lovingly restored, including the cathedral, city walls, gates, and main street. Yet many buildings remain wrapped in scaffolding, and piles of rubble and vacant lots still mark places where structures once stood, a reminder of the destruction that transformed this beautiful town.

Despite the construction, Norcia felt vibrant and welcoming. Perhaps it was the reconstruction effort itself, but the town seemed full of energy and optimism. The main piazza shone brightly with white stone buildings, and there were very few tourists. Every other storefront seemed to be a norcineria, selling cured meats, truffle products, and local pecorino cheese. Beyond a handful of restaurants and cafés there wasn’t much else, but it proved to be the perfect base for exploring the region.

We stayed in a lovely hotel right in the center of town, home to the Michelin-starred restaurant Vespasia, where we enjoyed—one of us more than the other—a multi-course tasting menu. These dinners are designed to unfold slowly, with each course presenting a creative combination of flavors, textures, and colors. Since dinner starts late in Italy, we ate well into the evening and bumped against our usual bedtime, leaving us tired and stuffed—a poor combination for a good night’s sleep. The bill took our breath away, and by the end of the evening I think we both concluded that Michelin-starred dining is not for us, especially if dinner begins at eight o’clock at night.

The next morning we packed a picnic of fruit, cheese, bread, olives, yogurt, and local cured meats and headed for the Piana di Castelluccio. The road wound back and forth into the mountains outside Norcia. It felt as though we were ascending into the sky. Then, as the road bent sharply north, the entire Piana suddenly unfolded before us. The landscape seemed impossibly vast: green plains stretching to the horizon, framed by steep mountain walls and an endless blue sky. We were above the tree line, and all we could see were green fields extending for miles in every direction.

As we descended onto the plain, we began noticing well-marked walking trails inviting visitors out into the fields. Koji was extremely enthusiastic about this idea, so we parked the car and started walking. Over the course of the morning, we stopped in several locations to explore the fields and admire the wildflowers in full bloom. At one point, I experienced a moment of genuine, spiritual awe. Standing alone in a field of blue, red, purple, and yellow flowers, I suddenly found myself surrounded by pale blue moths with spotted wings fluttering around me. Several landed gently on my shoes and pant legs. The soft colors of the flowers and the moths added flashes of color to the green canvas of the plain, creating an impression I will not soon forget.

Far in the distance we could see a town perched on a hill overlooking the plain. This was Castelluccio, the center of lentil farming in the area. As we approached, it became apparent that much of the town remained in ruins. Castelluccio had been devastated by the same earthquake that struck Norcia, and reconstruction here appears to be progressing much more slowly. The residents have created a temporary village just outside the historic town consisting of cafés, norcineria, and small farm stands selling lentils and other local products, including one of the best pecorino cheeses I have tasted in Italy. We stopped for coffee and a snack before taking one final walk onto the plain.

From a distance, the landscape around the town appears as a patchwork of colored fields. Some are pale yellow, while others appear purple, white, blue, or red. As we got closer, we could see the flowers responsible for these different palettes. Some fields were planted with lentils, while others were filled with wildflowers in bloom. The lentil flowers created subtle washes of yellow when viewed across great distances. Other fields were dominated by brilliant blue cornflowers mixed with red poppies. Some parcels were left fallow. Viewed from afar, the entire plain resembled a giant quilt stitched together from green, yellow, blue, and red fabric.

We enjoyed our picnic just off the road overlooking the fields before continuing to Forca di Presta, a high mountain pass just across the border in the region of Le Marche. Beyond the pass, the landscape changed again. High craggy peaks gave way to steep valleys, and the region of Le Marche stretched before us toward the Adriatic Sea in the east.

There was also a street food vendor selling stuffed olives, a specialty of Le Marche that we had first learned about from Stanley Tucci’s television series on Italian food and regional culture—a show I highly recommend. Naturally, we had to try them. They did not disappoint.

As we were enjoying the olives, a large flock of sheep passed by under the supervision of a shepherd and three sheepdogs, their bells clanging softly in the mountain air. Koji got to discuss work with one of the dogs and learn about life as an Italian working dog. Actually, they mostly sniffed each other for a few seconds and then moved on.

We spent nearly the entire day walking through fields, with Koji running happily ahead and the two of us simply enjoying the colors, the vistas, and the pure mountain air. Our eyes constantly shifted between distant beauty and close-up beauty: towering mountains, blue skies, and endless plains on one hand; delicate wildflowers and colorful moths on the other.

Back in Norcia, we enjoyed a light dinner and a good night’s sleep before heading home the next morning. This journey felt different from many of our previous Italian adventures. There were no great museums, famous churches, or remarkable works of architecture. Instead, the memories we carried home were of open space, wildflowers, mountain air, and a landscape that seemed almost impossibly vast. As we plan our upcoming trip to the Italian Alps, we are hoping for more moments like this—places that remind us how much beauty exists beyond Italy’s celebrated cities and towns.

Spoleto & Town of Norcia

Scenic view of a picturesque Italian village featuring stone houses with tiled roofs, surrounded by lush greenery and rolling hills under a clear blue sky.
An ancient amphitheater surrounded by greenery, with modern scaffolding for renovations, under a clear blue sky.
A shop display featuring taxidermy boar heads mounted on wooden plaques, with multiple wooden signs advertising various types of salami and cured meats, including prices in euros. Baskets of products are also visible in the foreground.
A man with glasses is interacting with a shopkeeper in a rustic store filled with various food products. A black dog is standing next to the man, observing the scene. The store features wooden shelves, trophies, and decorative items.
Front view of the Teatro Civico building featuring a pink facade, decorative elements, and a blue sky.
A monument featuring a soldier statue stands in a town square surrounded by buildings and greenery, with mountains in the background and a construction crane in the distance.
A man walking down a picturesque street lined with shops and cafes, with a historic archway and green hills in the background under a clear blue sky.
Historic buildings in a town square, featuring a bell tower and a church with a large rose window under a blue sky.
A man in a gray polo shirt stands next to a black dog on a stone pathway, with an ancient stone wall in the background.
Exterior view of a norcineria shop with a boar's head mounted above the entrance, featuring colorful chairs outside and a customer browsing inside.
A man standing outside a butcher shop named 'Norcinera Ansisini Maistro Peppe' with a black dog at his feet, next to a decorative boar statue surrounded by greenery.
Narrow cobblestone street lined with a beige building, featuring bicycles parked against the wall and flower pots hanging from windows.
Historic archway with a clock, leading to a tree-lined path, flanked by buildings on either side.
Archway entrance with the inscription 'VETVSTA NVRIA' surrounded by beige stone walls and decorative elements, leading into a street with various traffic signs.
An artistic presentation of gourmet breads and snacks, including green tea cakes, soft buns, and decorative rice crackers arranged on wooden serving trays.

Castelluccio di Norcia and Surrounding Area

A man stands on a grassy hillside with a black dog beside him, under a clear blue sky.
A scenic view of a winding road leading down a hillside, surrounded by lush green grass and mountains under a blue sky with clouds.
A smiling woman with long brown hair wearing sunglasses and a blue scarf, standing in a grassy field under a clear blue sky.
A black dog walking on a grassy path in an open field with rolling green hills and blue sky.
Wooden directional sign pointing towards Inghiotitito (Plan Grande) and Castelluccio, with distances indicated in kilometers, set against a scenic backdrop of mountains and a blue sky.
A vibrant meadow filled with various wildflowers, including daisies and purple blooms, with lush green grass and rolling mountains in the background under a blue sky with fluffy white clouds.
A picturesque landscape featuring rolling green hills and a distant village nestled among mountains, with a vibrant field of red and yellow flowers in the foreground under a blue sky with fluffy clouds.
A scenic landscape featuring a vibrant field of wildflowers in red, yellow, and blue, set against lush green hills and a distant village perched atop a hill under a partly cloudy sky.
A black dog walking down a grassy path surrounded by rolling green hills under a blue sky with fluffy white clouds.
A scenic landscape featuring a variety of wildflowers, including red and yellow, with a barn in the foreground and rolling green hills in the background.
A scenic landscape featuring rolling hills with lush green grass, patterned fields in various shades of green and brown, and a bright blue sky adorned with fluffy white clouds.
A vibrant field of red poppies with scattered wildflowers and green grass under bright sunlight.
A construction site featuring a tall crane under a bright sun and blue sky, with white clouds. In the foreground, there are market stalls with canopies and chairs, set against a backdrop of mountainous terrain and newly built structures.
A rustic stone building with a wooden sign and decorative elements, featuring an entrance with a menu board and potted flowers in front.
A rustic building with a colorful mural featuring flowers and the text 'Benvenuti' on its wall. The entrance has a wooden door labeled 'Proloco Castelluccio.' Nearby equipment and parking vehicles are visible under a partly cloudy sky.
A picturesque view of a stone building with decorative windows and a small outdoor seating area, surrounded by greenery and a cloudy blue sky.
A scenic view of a small village nestled in a green valley, surrounded by hills and trees under a partly cloudy sky.
A busy outdoor area with tents and vendors, featuring two people conversing in the foreground, motorcycles parked nearby, and a construction site with a crane and buildings under development in the background, set against a mountainous landscape with blue skies.
A wooden signpost with directional arrows in a green meadow, surrounded by rolling hills and a bright blue sky with fluffy clouds.
A woman wearing sunglasses smiling for a selfie in a colorful flower field with a black dog beside her, under a blue sky with fluffy white clouds.
A vibrant wildflower meadow featuring bright red poppies, blue cornflowers, and white daisies among lush green grass.
A scenic view of rolling hills with a small village on top, surrounded by green fields and a colorful wildflower meadow in the foreground.
A vibrant landscape featuring rolling green hills under a bright blue sky with fluffy white clouds, adorned with colorful fields of wildflowers in yellow and purple. A distant farm and a few vehicles are visible in the foreground.
A lush green landscape featuring vibrant red flowers in the foreground, with a large, grassy mountain in the background under a partly cloudy blue sky.
A scenic view of a small village on a hilltop surrounded by green mountains, with a vibrant field of red poppies in the foreground under a partly cloudy sky.
A couple sitting in a colorful wildflower field alongside their black dog, with mountains and blue sky in the background.
A woman sitting on a colorful picnic blanket next to a black dog, with a cooler nearby. A road with grass and roadside signs is visible in the background.
A panoramic view of rolling green hills and mountains under a blue sky with scattered clouds.
Panoramic view of green mountains under a blue sky with scattered clouds.
A scenic view of a winding road leading towards a lush green mountain under a partly cloudy sky.
Wooden sign showing 'Forca di Presta 1542 m' at a scenic location, with parked cars and grassy area in the background.
A hand holding a bitten piece of fried food with a mountainous landscape in the background.
A flock of sheep grazing on a grassy hillside under a partly cloudy sky.

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To see a short video of this trip, check it out on YouTube here: https://youtu.be/HPgJvQzDDU4?feature=shared

Reflections on Cinque Terre and an Unexpected Find

Posted on by Esterina Anderson

by Daren Anderson

There is a place in Italy where mountains plunge straight into the sea and colorful villages cling to cliffs and tiny coves along the shoreline. Houses painted in shades of yellow, orange, and ochre cling to cliffs over the water. Above them, terraced vineyards and olive groves produce crisp local white wines and flavorful olive oil. There are five towns in all—Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso al Mare. Together they comprise Cinque Terre (Five Lands), one of the most stunning and scenic places in Italy. If you’ve ever seen a screensaver or postcard featuring a picturesque Italian seaside village, chances are it was depicting one of these five special towns.

Hoping to see Cinque Terre before summer tourist season was in full swing, we headed to Liguria, the coastal region we have come to love. Here you’ll find the fabled Italian Riviera, the great port city of Genoa (the birthplace of Christopher Columbus) and, of course, Cinque Terre.

The towns of Cinque Terre were, in days past, reachable only by water, leaving them isolated and heavily dependent on the sea for food and transportation. Today, a train line runs straight through the mountains and emerges at a station in each of the five towns, making a visit remarkably convenient. Travelers can easily move from town to town by train or arrive from one of the many nearby cities and villages outside the region.

In addition, a well-maintained network of hiking trails connects the towns and provides an opportunity to walk along the cliffs, through terraced vineyards and olive groves, and enjoy spectacular views of the Mediterranean. These trails are not for the faint of heart or the out of shape. The climbs can be strenuous, although the paths are in excellent condition and exceptionally well-marked.

While we failed spectacularly in our effort to avoid tourists, we were nonetheless completely enchanted by the beauty of the towns and the magic of this special part of Italy. In a year filled with superlatives, Cinque Terre stands out as one of the very best places we have visited, and perhaps our favorite so far.

To experience Cinque Terre, we chose to stay a few miles north of the region in the seaside town of Chiavari. The five towns themselves offer limited and often expensive hotel options. In retrospect, I think we would enjoy staying in one of the villages for a few nights, allowing us to experience the early mornings and evenings before and after the day-tripper crowds descend.

On our first day, we took the train from Chiavari to the southernmost town, Riomaggiore. Koji joined us, and we planned to walk from there to Manarola, having learned that this route was the shortest and easiest. Koji is feeling his years and is probably no longer up for a difficult hike involving steep climbs in the hot sun.

Fortunately for all of us, the path connecting these two towns, known as the Via dell’Amore (Way of Love), was not really a hike at all but rather a beautifully paved walkway high above the sea, offering incredible views without any significant climbing. The sea was rough, and waves exploded against the rocks below us, sending plumes of spray into the air. The constant roar of the surf added to the unforgettable vista and provided some of the best photographs of the trip.

We enjoyed a light lunch in Manarola and spent some time wandering through the town. These villages are difficult to describe. You have to see them. Even photographs struggle to capture their charm and scale. After some gelato and a bit more exploring, we returned to Chiavari to enjoy the hotel pool and a great dinner at the hotel restaurant.

A woman standing near a railing with a scenic view of colorful buildings along a coastal cliff and a bright blue sea.
A black dog sitting on a train, looking out the window, with a colorful collar, next to a blue seat.
A coastal train station with a view of the ocean, featuring a bench on a platform with yellow markings and a small shelter. Lush greenery and a rocky cliff are visible in the background under a blue sky.
Entrance of the Cinque Terre National Park visitor center, featuring a colorful facade and information signs.
Colorful ceramic tiles arranged on a wall, featuring various intricate designs, with a sign reading 'Via dell'Amore' in the center. The wall is made of light-colored stone with a gray floor beneath.
A bustling market street in an Italian seaside town, featuring colorful buildings, pedestrians, and a fruit stand.
Narrow pathway lined with colorful boats, leading to a rocky shore by the sea, under a bright blue sky with scattered clouds.
A small grocery store entrance with a striped awning, featuring the sign 'coop 5 TERRE.' There is a display of fresh fruits and vegetables on a metal stand outside.
A black dog standing on a cobblestone path near a flowering tree, with red blossoms in a sunny outdoor setting.
A picturesque coastal view overlooking colorful buildings and lush greenery, with the ocean in the background under a partly cloudy sky.
A scenic view of colorful houses on a hillside against a backdrop of lush green mountains and a blue sky with clouds.
A coastal view featuring a rocky shoreline, lush green hills, and a small town with colorful buildings near the water under a blue sky with scattered clouds.
A person walking a black dog on a paved path near the coast, surrounded by greenery and a blue sky.
A vibrant narrow street scene in a coastal town with colorful buildings and balconies. Many people are walking along the street, some stopping to explore shops. White boats are visible along the sides, and the sky is bright blue with some clouds.
A metal container with the words '5 Terre Gelateria' and 'Sorbetteria' painted on it, topped with a lush green plant. In the background, there are signs advertising gluten-free and vegan crepes.
Colorful buildings on a hillside with a blue sky and boats in the foreground by a marina.
A scenic coastal view featuring colorful buildings on cliffs above rocky shoreline with waves crashing against the rocks.

We had planned this trip around the travel schedule of our good friends Cheryl and Mike, who were spending a week exploring Provence. We arranged to meet them, along with their traveling companions Greg and Suzanne, in Ventimiglia, a Riviera town located right on the French border.

We drove north that morning, passing through Genoa before arriving in Ventimiglia for a leisurely seaside lunch and an enjoyable afternoon with friends from home. The road along the Ligurian coast is a remarkable feat of engineering. At times it felt as though we spent more time in tunnels than out of them. Italy has built an extraordinary network of highways through some very challenging terrain. The drive provided a good demonstrated how dramatically geography has shaped Italy’s history. Mountains separated regions for centuries, helping create the strong regional identities, dialects, and traditions that still define the country today. The vast network of tunnels, highways, and rail lines have been revolutionary in connecting, for the first time in history, these disparate regions and fostering a deeper unity that existed before.

Group of six people smiling together outdoors by the seaside on a sunny day.

Back in Chiavari, we decided to return to Cinque Terre to see a few more of the towns and tackle a more ambitious hike. This time Koji remained at the hotel, and he did not seem particularly disappointed when he learned how strenuous the route would be. He held down the fort and guarded the room from his travel bed while we headed out to the train station.

We began in Monterosso al Mare, the northernmost of the five towns and the only one with a true beach. Our first glimpse featured the classic Italian seaside scene: perfectly arranged rows of colorful umbrellas and hundreds of people enjoying the warm weather from lounge chairs or the water itself.

While it is technically not yet summer, Italy is already warm. Days have been sunny, with temperatures in the 70s and 80s—perfect beach weather.

Monterosso quickly became our favorite of the towns we visited. It featured a beautiful church, narrow winding streets, colorful flowers, and a relaxed atmosphere that encouraged lingering. We spent quite a while exploring before beginning our hike.

The trail out of Monterosso wastes no and immediately starts climbing straight into the hills above town. We ascended for at least an hour, passing through terraced vineyards while taking in views of the Mediterranean far below. There were plenty of fellow hikers on the trail, ample shady spots for rest breaks, and clear signs directing us toward Vernazza, the next town along the coast.

The highlight of the hike comes when Vernazza suddenly appears below you. Hundreds of feet beneath the trail, the village is tucked into a narrow opening between the mountains and the sea, its colorful buildings clustered around a small harbor. A medieval tower overlooks the town, and later in the day we climbed it to enjoy yet another remarkable perspective on the coastline.

We had a mediocre pizza for lunch—proof that there is bad food everywhere, even in Italy. Food was not the highlight of our visit. In heavily touristed destinations like these, finding an exceptional meal can sometimes be difficult. Restaurants catering primarily to tourists do not always meet our increasingly finicky standards.

Even so, despite the crowds and the dozens of languages we heard around us, including plenty of American English, we thoroughly enjoyed both the towns and the region. We will undoubtedly return, perhaps a little farther outside the high season next time.

A sign requesting people to feed homeless and unloved cats using food from a nearby container. The sign is written in both Italian and English.
A scenic view of a colorful coastal village surrounded by hills and trees, with a small beach area and boats in the turquoise water below.
A stone pathway leading down to a blue sea dotted with boats, surrounded by lush greenery and flowers.
Panoramic view of a coastal village with colorful buildings by the water, featuring a sandy beach, boats in the turquoise sea, and a clear blue sky.
Narrow street lined with colorful buildings in a quaint village, featuring plants and tourists walking.
A historic clock tower with a dome and decorative tiles, surrounded by greenery and mountains under a clear blue sky.
A stone tower surrounded by greenery, with steps leading up to it and a clear blue sky in the background.
View looking up a spiral staircase inside a stone tower, featuring metal steps and a central support pole.
A panoramic view of a coastal town with colorful buildings nestled along the shore, surrounded by lush green hills and a clear blue sky.
Narrow alleyway between colorful buildings with laundry hanging between them and a clear blue sky above.
A narrow cobblestone street lined with colorful buildings and vibrant flowers, featuring a woman in casual attire posing confidently in the foreground, while tourists stroll in the background.
A vibrant street scene lined with colorful flowers and plants, featuring pink and orange blooms, rustic pots, and a sunny atmosphere. Shoppers can be seen browsing clothing stalls along the pathway.
A man and a woman taking a selfie on a hiking trail with a scenic ocean view in the background. The woman has curly hair and is wearing sunglasses, while the man is wearing a cap and sunglasses.
A wooden sign for a restaurant named 'Lapo S' located in Monterosso, Cinque Terre, displaying rustic design and wheels.
A scenic beach view featuring two large rock formations, with people swimming in the turquoise water, colorful umbrellas lined on the shore, and boats in the background against a partly cloudy sky.
A charming outdoor setting featuring a wooden bench in front of a flower display with colorful blooms on shelves, and a pizzeria sign above, creating an inviting atmosphere.
A narrow cobblestone alleyway lined with vibrant flowers and greenery, featuring a decorative white chair with a red and white striped pattern.
A view of two striped buildings in a narrow alley, with a group of people gathered in front. One building features ornate architectural details, while the other has a simpler design. The sky is clear and blue.
A person stands on a path with a railing, overlooking a scenic coastal view featuring a beach, colorful buildings, and lush hills in the background.
Wooden directional signs on a stone wall indicating the distance to Vernazza and Monterosso.

I cannot end this blog without talking about Chiavari, which somewhat unexpectedly has earned a place on our short list of favorite towns in Italy.

We selected Chiavari simply because of its proximity to Cinque Terre and because we found an attractive hotel at a reasonable price. What we discovered was a gorgeous and authentic town featuring a seaside promenade, fountains, parks, a beautiful piazza, rocky beaches, a marina, and miles of elegant porticos.

We knew almost nothing about the town before arriving and spent many hours wandering its streets and stumbling upon beautiful surprises. The town was clean, well maintained, and refreshingly authentic. There were relatively few foreign tourists. Instead, the streets and promenades were filled with Italian families, babies, teenagers, parents, grandparents, and people with disabilities, all sharing public spaces together. We saw circles of teenagers chatting on the beach. Groups of elderly gathered on park benches together, families with strollers, and dogs everywhere. There were small dogs, large dogs, elderly dogs, puppies, all walking, running, sniffing, tugging, and occasionally barking. Hands down this was the most dog-friendly town we’ve seen in a country that is renowned for its dog-friendliness.

The combination of such a rich mix of people, a lovely and well-kept city, and a relaxed seaside atmosphere created a great sense of energy and vibrancy. Chiavari felt alive in the best possible way.

A scenic view of a marina filled with sailboats and yachts, surrounded by buildings and mountains under a partly cloudy sky.
View of a marina at sunset with numerous boats and yachts, a person leaning on a railing, and mountains in the background.
A couple stands on a seaside promenade, smiling for a selfie. The woman has long hair and sunglasses, while the man wears a t-shirt and glasses. Behind them is a pebbly beach with people and buildings along the coastline under a partly cloudy sky.
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View of a beach with blue umbrellas and lounge chairs set up on pebbly shore, with a calm sea and cloudy sky in the background.
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A beach scene with colorful red and yellow umbrellas set up over lounge chairs, along a pebbled shore with gentle waves lapping at the waterline and yachts visible in the distance.
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A dock with striped blue and white boats, featuring a visible Italian flag, and a scenic view of the water and harbor in the background.
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A person walking a black dog along a waterfront promenade with cloudy skies in the background.
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Evening view of a coastal promenade with striped beach umbrellas and a Mexican flag, under a cloudy sky.
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A circular window frame embellished with vibrant purple bougainvillea flowers against a textured white wall.
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A picturesque street view featuring colorful buildings, with a focus on a pink church dome in the background. Motorcycles are parked along the cobblestone street, and outdoor cafes with red umbrellas line the area.
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A scenic square in Chiavari, Italy, featuring a decorative fountain, a statue, and colorful historic buildings. People are gathered around, and there are flowers and greenery in the foreground.
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A winding pathway bordered by a wrought iron fence, leading towards a terraced garden with lush greenery and tall palm trees in the background, showcasing a scenic architectural structure.
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A street view of a charming Italian square lined with colorful buildings, outdoor cafes, and trees, with a glimpse of the sea in the background under a pastel sunset sky.
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A serene pathway lined with flowering plants and a green fence, under a clear blue sky adorned with distant purple blooms from trees.
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A bowl of mixed fruit including melon, kiwi, and cantaloupe on a table, with a view of the sea and cloudy sky in the background.
A beachside view at sunset, featuring lounge chairs with blue umbrellas lined up on the pebble shore, a calm sea, and distant mountains under a pastel sky.

As always seems to happen with places we love, our days in Liguria passed far too quickly. We returned home with sore feet, hundreds of photographs, and a growing conviction that Liguria may be our favorite region of Italy. We came for Cinque Terre, but in some ways it was Chiavari, the unexpected discovery, that lingered most in our minds.

Either way, we’ll be back!

Talk to us – add a comment, email/text… we’d love to hear from you too!

Feel free to check out the Instagram posts from this trip:

The Italy Situation: A Dog’s Perspective

Posted on by Esterina Anderson

By Koji Anderson

After yet another terrifying, then exhilarating experience yesterday, I believe it’s finally time I tell you what this whole Italy thing has been like from my point of view.

First of all — this is Koji.

Most of you probably know me already, but if not, my mommy and daddy are Esterina and Daren. Mommy is helping me write this because, despite my many talents, typing is apparently beyond my skill set.

It all started with the crate.

I hadn’t seen a crate since I was a tiny puppy. Back then I actually liked it. One day it disappeared, which I assumed meant I had proven myself trustworthy enough not to destroy the house while nobody was home.

Then suddenly, eleven years later, a giant crate appeared in the living room.

This one was sturdier. More serious.

Naturally, I climbed right in because I remembered the assignment. Also, every time I went inside, treats appeared. Sometimes daddy closed the door and left me in there for a while. Honestly? Not bad. Cozy enough. The crate sat next to my dog bed for weeks, so eventually I stopped questioning it.

Then one day the house became chaos.

Suitcases.
Humans moving quickly.
Doors opening and closing.
Stress smells.

And then somehow the crate came too.

I knew we were going on an adventure because suitcases always mean somebody disappears for a while. The trick is figuring out whether I’m included. I watch carefully for clues:

  • Is my food being packed?
  • Is my travel bed involved?
  • Has someone picked up my leash?

The leash is the final confirmation. Once the leash appears, I allow myself to emotionally commit.

That day, I knew I was coming.

But something felt… suspiciously large-scale.

We all got into a huge car with a driver. Me, mommy, daddy, bags, and somehow the crate too. I sat between them while the world rushed by outside the windows.

A close-up of a black dog with a happy expression, sitting in a car with people in the background.
A black dog lying on wooden floors near a couch and a doorway, with a rug in the background.
A person carrying a large black bag exiting a garage with luggage on the floor, while a van is parked outside.

Then we arrived somewhere unlike anywhere I had ever smelled before.

Let me tell you something about airports:
Outstanding smells.
Absolutely incredible.

Thousands of humans.
Thousands of shoes.
Old crumbs.
Fear.
Coffee.
Perfume.
Mild panic.
One abandoned french fry.

A sensory masterpiece.

Close-up view of an airplane at an airport gate with a jet bridge attached, with ground support equipment visible nearby.
A black dog on a leash walks along the pavement in front of an airport terminal, with visible signage for airlines in the background.
A black dog lying on the floor of an airport near check-in counters and a pet carrier.

At one point, some men took my crate away while mommy and daddy walked beside me telling me I was a good boy in the tone humans use when they are pretending not to worry.

That’s when I realized:
Something weird was about to happen.

Eventually they guided me into the crate and suddenly we were separating.

I squeaked a little. Not dramatically. Just enough to register concern.

Then came many loud noises, strange movements, rolling, lifting, waiting, more rolling, more noises, and an extremely long period of time where absolutely nothing made sense.

At some point the whole world tilted upward.
Later downward.
Then loud again.

Frankly, I decided the best strategy was acceptance.

Eventually the crate started moving again and suddenly — THERE THEY WERE.

Mommy and daddy.

I cannot adequately explain the relief.

I exploded out of that crate emotionally and physically although I tried to remain composed.

They tried to get me to eat and drink and use the potty, but I was simply too overwhelmed to focus on bodily functions.

Then we got into another car — this one just for us — and after a long ride we arrived somewhere quieter.

There were two ladies there.
And another dog.

His name was Rhum.

We sniffed each other thoroughly and professionally. He informed me I was welcome to drink from his water bowl, which I appreciated because suddenly I realized I was incredibly thirsty.

That was the moment I understood:
We were staying here.

Soon I was introduced to what appears to be my new life.

A pathway leading to a green lawn with a black dog walking towards the horizon, framed by tall cypress trees and pots with bare plants, under a cloudy sky.
A black dog standing beside a luggage cart at an airport, with travelers and baggage in the background.
A man standing next to a pet carrier and luggage in a parking garage, with a dog lying on the ground nearby.
A man sitting on a patio with a cup of coffee, next to a black dog on the ground, overlooking a valley with hills and trees in the background.
A black dog sleeping on a blanket in a cozy room with a fireplace and a patterned armchair.

Honestly?
I like it very much.

There are hills everywhere, which is admittedly a little tough on my hips, but the tradeoff is excellent smells.

I have now smelled:

  • olive groves
  • vineyards
  • medieval streets
  • beach air
  • outdoor markets
  • approximately twelve thousand years of accumulated Italian dog pee

Daddy likes to say I am smelling “medieval urine.”

I don’t fully understand what medieval means, but I respect the depth of the scent.

The most shocking part of Italy is this:
I AM ALLOWED EVERYWHERE.

Stores.
Restaurants.
Outdoor cafés.
Little shops with meats and cheeses hanging everywhere like some kind of fever dream.

The humans speak in different words now, although honestly I never understood English either, so this has not been a difficult transition for me.

People here love dogs.

Sometimes they bring me water.
Sometimes treats.
Sometimes they bend down and call me “bravo cane,” which apparently means I am an excellent citizen.

I already knew this.

One of my favorite things is going to restaurants with mommy and daddy. They sit for very long periods of time while I rest under the table like a furry security detail.

The only issue is other dogs.

When another dog walks by, I do feel it is important to announce myself loudly so everyone remains aware of the situation.

This has not always been appreciated.

Still, overall I believe my public behavior has been excellent.

We also visit many piazzas, which seem to be giant outdoor human gathering zones filled with conversations, footsteps, pigeons, espresso, and confusion.

They are exhausting.

I often collapse directly in the middle of traffic flow to recover.

A woman stands in a busy square in Florence, Italy, holding a leash attached to a black dog lying on the ground. The backdrop features a historic cathedral with intricate architecture, while groups of people walk and gather around the plaza.
Duomo in Florence
A black dog standing on a cobblestone street in a rustic alleyway, with a stone wall and red door in the background.
A woman in a purple jacket stands with a black dog in a busy square surrounded by people, with historic statues and a building in the background.
A black dog lying on the floor of a colorful store, surrounded by bright merchandise including clothing and accessories.
A person walking a dog along a pebbly beach near the water, with a scenic view of the ocean and hills in the background.
Dipping paw for first time in the Med
A man wearing a beige jacket and light pants walks through a bustling market with a dog beside him, browsing items at a vendor's stall, with clothing racks and other shoppers in the background under clear blue skies.
Markets
A black dog on a leash walking through a brightly lit shop filled with colorful pottery and decorative items, including bowls, vases, and unique trinkets.
An actual china shop!
A person holding an ice cream cone reaches out to a dog sitting nearby in an outdoor cafe setting. The dog looks up with curiosity as people converse in the background.
Gelato
A cup of dog-friendly ice cream topped with two dog bone-shaped biscuits, resting on a glass table.
More gelato (dog specific!)
A black dog leaning against the back of a car seat, looking curiously out of the window.
A man standing on the roadside with a black dog, holding a small cup, in front of a red car.
A black dog sitting on the ground in front of a busy public space, with people walking by in various directions.
A man in a blue shirt walks along a beach with a black dog, near gentle waves and a clear blue water surface.
A black dog on a leash stands at the bottom of a set of white stone stairs in a narrow alley, looking upward.
A black dog lying on a pebbly beach with the ocean in the background and people swimming.
A smiling man and woman are sitting with a black dog, enjoying a sunny outdoor moment with a scenic background.
A person walking away towards the ocean while a black dog stands on a rocky shoreline, observing the water.
View of a relaxing poolside scene with two pairs of feet visible in lounge chairs, a black dog nearby, and a woman lounging by the pool in a pink swimsuit.
A black dog lying on a red mat outdoors, resting its head on an open book, with green foliage and stone planters in the background.
A black dog on a leash gazes at a colorful display of various foods and jars visible in a shop window.
What dog heaven is like
Two men engaging in conversation on a dirt path, with one gesturing while the other listens. A black dog sits beside them, surrounded by greenery and wildflowers.

Yesterday, however, was the strangest experience yet.

We arrived somewhere with an alarming number of stairs.

An unreasonable number.
A hostile number.

I was already emotionally preparing myself for the climb when I noticed something horrifying:

The stairs were moving.

I immediately lay down on the ground because clearly this was a terrible idea.

But mommy and daddy reassured me with pets and encouraging voices, which usually means they are about to force me into personal growth.

Daddy gently dragged me onto the moving stairs.

At first I trembled.

Then suddenly I realized something incredible:

THE STAIRS WERE DOING THE WALKING FOR ME.

Honestly?
Revolutionary.

By the second escalator I was uncertain but cooperative.

By the third one I trotted right on like an experienced commuter.

I have changed as a dog.

Mommy later told people this story and her friend Sarah — Chester’s mom — apparently said, “You can teach an old dog new things.”

I was very proud to hear that.

Anyway, I thought it was time I explained what this whole Italy experience has been like from my perspective.

Terrifying.
Confusing.
Beautiful.
Exhausting.
Delicious-smelling.

And honestly?

I’d do it all again tomorrow.

A person walking a black dog on an escalator, with another person visible in the background.

Ok — this is Esterina now.

I want to pause for a moment and say how incredibly lucky we are to be able to bring Koji along on this adventure. And honestly, he’s pretty lucky too.

Koji is a rescue dog from a high-kill shelter in Tennessee. On Friday, May 15th, he turned 12 years old. As a larger dog, we’re starting to see signs of age creeping in a bit, but he is still unbelievably happy, curious, loving, and as healthy as we could hope for.

Because Daren, Koji, and I were fortunate enough to find one another — thanks to my son Tom, who originally petitioned for us to adopt him — I’ve been thinking a lot lately about giving back to other dogs and to the organizations that make stories like this possible.

That bumper sticker that says “Who rescued who?” really is true.

I recently created a small section on my website (Digital Downloads) where I’m sharing collections of digital iPhone wallpapers. Some are favorite older photos from the U.S., and others will be small collections inspired by our time here in Italy.

They’re simple instant downloads that cost just a few dollars, and all proceeds will be donated to the Cosgrove Animal Shelter in Branford, Connecticut.

If you’d like to support the joy, comfort, companionship, and second chances that rescue animals give so freely, feel free to download a photo you love.

Digital Shop

Thanks for taking the time to read. I’d love to hear your thoughts!

Please feel free to leave a comment or subscribe for future updates.

10 Weeks and Some Newfound Spontaneity

Posted on by Esterina Anderson
A bright yellow lemon placed on a wooden table, with a view of greenery and a double door in the background.

Yesterday morning I woke up and decided to make lemon ricotta pancakes using the second-to-last lemon my family from Calabria had sent home with us. Saturday or Sunday morning pancakes have become a nice little ritual for us. There was still a thick fog hanging over the hills outside our patio doors, that was just beginning to burn off under a warm, bright Tuscan sun.

As I was fiddling around in the kitchen, Daren was on his phone telling me about an art festival that had just started in Venice. I asked him to put Venice into the map to see how far from us it was.

“Two hours and fifty minutes,” he replied.

Two hours and fifty minutes?

We both just kind of looked at each other — a little awed, a little excited. We knew we lived close to a lot of great places, and of course we’d looked at the map before, but I don’t think we’d really internalized how close and accessible to us these places were. Venice, one of the most iconic travel destinations in the world was less than a 3 hour drive! Rome is just 2 and a half hours away, and Florence just a half hour. In fact, we realized that nearly all the major destinations in Italy, places that people come from all over the world to see, were a day trip away. Suddenly it felt like we should get out there and see some new things.

So after sitting down to eat these delicious pancakes (a new favorite) we decided to take an impromptu trip toward the Bologna area, only about an hour and a half away by car.

We finished breakfast and hopped in the car: windows down, music up, dog nose out the window. We both felt exhilarated, like we were breaking free of self-imposed constraints. As we were driving down the hill out of our neighborhood we stopped and Daren took this photo. Even as he was taking it he said “the camera doesn’t do it justice”

A panoramic view of lush green hills and valleys under a clear blue sky with scattered clouds.

One of us said something to the effect of, “We really didn’t do much this week,” and then we mentally walked back through the week. What had we done? Do we still need to “do things” in order to feel satisfied? What’s wrong with a slow week focused on more mundane things? Well, here is what a “mundane” week in Italy looked like for us:

Sunday we spent HOURS by the pool talking about how we want to spend the rest of our lives. We don’t have an exact plan yet, and this consulting business feels like a small stepping stone toward something, though we aren’t fully sure what yet.

Monday I went grocery shopping. Before leaving, I typed “art supplies Figline Italy” into Google to see where I might buy a canvas or two. That turned into a much longer outing and a lot more than just a canvas.

The rest of the week disappeared into work, dog walks, a lot of art starts and art projects, and me finally finishing the WordPress site that has basically been an online messy closet since its inception in 2015. I’ll paste the link below. While I did this Daren put in some serious hours on the consultancy work.

We also ordered and received a new coffee foamer this week, along with a Bialetti espresso maker I’ve been thinking about for the past seven months. It was more expensive than I normally like to spend, but its beauty kept calling to me. Doppio macchiatos as a midday break are now a new ritual.

A colorful stovetop espresso maker with a decorative blue and white design, placed next to a tall black container and a small black tool on a white tray.
A plate of cooked fettuccine pasta topped with chopped parsley, accompanied by two pieces of seasoned fish, with a colorful floral border on the plate.
Two glass panels featuring artistic designs made from various colored stones and leaves. One panel displays a branch with green leaves and amber accents, while the other showcases a similar design with a decorative heart-shaped stone.

We planned a trip to Umbria to visit friends from our neighborhood. We found a new pizzeria to order from for our Friday night pizza ritural that was ABSOLUTELY POSITIVELY the yummiest pizza we’ve had here for our tastes so far.

But somehow, despite all of that, it still felt like we hadn’t really “done” anything this week.

So we were both got excited and decided to do something spontaneous. Armed with our new realization that all of Italy was laid out before us and not far away, we were on our way out on the road towards Bologna without a clear plan. Not our usual way of doing things, but it felt new, fun, and a bit daring. We had a good laugh as Daren, much more of a structured planner when it comes to travel, struggled to wrap his mind around being spontaneous. Where will we park? What will we see? Do we need reservations for dinner? This time, let’s just see where we end up and figure it out along the way.

We initially started driving toward Parma, but somewhere around the city of Modena I was really thirsty and wanted to stop, so we shifted plans a bit and ended up there instead.

And we proceeded to have the best day!

A coffee vending machine offering various beverages including espresso, cappuccino, and hot chocolate, with a prominent logo from Buonristoro. The machine has a sleek design and is placed next to a trash bin in a well-lit area.
Only in Italy – a vending machine for cafe
A person standing on a pathway next to a patch of grass, with a black dog nearby, and a white building in the background under a clear blue sky.
Our first glance (and sniff) of Modena
A woman wearing sunglasses smiles for a selfie in a bustling plaza with historic architecture and outdoor seating.
A cobblestone street lined with colorful buildings, bustling with people and a black dog in the foreground under a clear blue sky.
Just arriving

First Glances at Modena

A historical building with a large rose window and intricate architectural details, adjacent to a tall bell tower, set against a clear blue sky. People are walking in front of the building, and nearby colorful buildings add to the urban landscape.
A vibrant window display featuring a variety of potted plants and flowers in colorful containers, adorned with a purple umbrella, set against an orange wall.
A charming flower shop entrance adorned with vibrant flowers and greenery. The shop features a red awning and a chalkboard sign indicating fresh flowers for sale. Surrounding walls are painted in warm orange hues.
A man standing with a black dog in a cobblestone street adorned with colorful umbrellas, featuring a tall tower in the background.

We stopped for a little bite. We were going to look up “things to do” but it was so pretty and such a lovely day, having a destination seemed crazy. We decided to wander. No Trip Advisor, no Michelin Guide, no ChatGPT travel recommendations. Just a new, unknown city where, it turns out, balsamic vinegar comes from.

Interior of a historical building featuring a brick wall, an arched window with stained glass, and a decorative table with candles.
Interior view of a historic church featuring arched brick ceilings, columns, and a staircase leading to an altar area with decorative mosaics.
Interior view of a beautifully decorated historical church, featuring ornate ceilings, columns, frescoes, and candles on the altar.
Interior view of a historic church featuring a detailed frescoed ceiling, ornate altar with a tall candle holder and religious decorations, surrounded by red carpets and stone architecture.

We stopped in this gorgeous church. We had to go in one at a time because we had Koji with us. Italy is SOOOO dog friendly, but I think they’d probably draw the line if we brought him inside.

Historic clock tower with a statue and flags in front, located in a town square under a clear blue sky.
View of a historic building with a tall bell tower against a clear blue sky.
Exterior view of the Giuseppe Giusti balsamic vinegar shop in Modena, Italy, showcasing its elegant entrance and display of products.

Next we found ourselves at Piazza Grande. It was the International Red Cross Day and there was a large event celebrating in the piazza. The “Croce Rossa Italiana” employees made a fuss over Koji as we walked around. He was only too happy for the attention. In this square we also found a company store featuring balsamic vinegar that had been in production since 1604. We went in for a vinegar tasting. Who knew that vinegar was such “a thing”. I cannot (cannot) believe how delicious these vinegars were. One of them had been aged for 25 years! We left with a large bag and one too many ideas of how to use it!

A man browsing through vinyl records in a music shop, with a dog sitting patiently in front of him. Another man is seen working at the counter in the background.
A picturesque street lined with colorful buildings in various hues, including yellow, green, and orange, under a clear blue sky.
A vibrant market scene showcasing an array of fresh fruits and vegetables displayed on stands, with colorful crates in a bustling indoor environment.
A black dog lying on the floor of a market, surrounded by fruit and vegetables in wooden crates, while shoppers browse a deli counter in the background.

Some more shopping and browsing. We stumbled upon an excellent food market. We bought some cheeses and tortellini (what the region of Emilia Romano is known for).

Outdoor café scene with people sitting at tables, overlooking a bustling street and a banner for Museo Della Figurina.
Interior of a cafe featuring a wooden bar, chandeliers, and patrons enjoying their time. Various drinks are displayed on the counter.
A hand holding an empty espresso cup with a saucer on a countertop, with a background of a cafe setting.

Our unplanned wandering found us strolling down cobblestoned streets and under countless porticos (for which this region is known. As we continued along Daren stopped and pointed out the cutest coffee shop. We stopped in for a quick espresso at the counter. We were feeling very Italian. As we’ve come to learn, Italians stop into to cafes like these throughout the day and order espressos which they down quickly while standing at the counter. While there, we met and chatted (in Italian) with one of the Red Cross staff who was taking a break. Check out the year of this coffee shop on the little espresso cup! We love how old and full of history everything is.

A woman standing confidently in a narrow, urban alleyway, wearing a navy blue top, beige cargo pants, and sandals. She carries a pink bag and sunglasses, smiling at the camera.
A pedestrian walks a dog along a yellow arched corridor, with shops and decorative lanterns visible, creating a quaint urban atmosphere.
A narrow, cobblestone street lined with colorful buildings, featuring bustling pedestrians and a cyclist, with a historic building visible at the end under a blue sky.
A decorative storefront featuring a glass display framed with purple flowers and dried twigs, showcasing elegant bedding products inside against a yellow wall.
Historic building facade with ornate architecture, featuring sculptures and detailed carvings, set against a clear blue sky. People seated at outdoor tables in the foreground.
A close-up view of two windows on an orange wall, featuring brown shutters and a small green potted plant visible in one window.
A man in a checked shirt stands next to a bronze statue of a cheerful figure with outstretched arms, located outside a historic building. A black dog sits beside him.

The day concluded with a bit more meandering and a stop at the Pavarotti statue. Pavarotti, among the greatest opera tenors ever, is from Modena. Koji was starting to get tired. I think we all were, so we heading back home where we had a lovely sunset appetizer dinner with the cheese we bought, our favorite bread (from Lidl of all places), the vinegars we purchased and the very last of the olives that we brought back from my family’s olive grove in Calabria.

A final dog walk, some showers and a little TV/couch time closed out the evening and the week. Today marks 10 weeks that we have been here.

Meanwhile – check out the cleaned up wordpress site where this and all the other Italy blogs live, along with a lot more stuff. A brief explanation is below.

esterinaanderson.com

Take a look around by clicking the link above that says esterinaanderson.

The site now opens directly to our Italy page, where we’ve organized the writing into our individual perspectives along with our shared travelogue (including posts like this one).

If you explore the other tabs at the top — Reflections, All the Flavor, and the Digital Shop — there’s a lot more tucked in there too.

Here’s a little mock-up below – which isn’t clickable, but shows what you will see when you open the site and what each tab is. Or feel free to wander through the site yourself. It’s finally starting to feel connected, organized, and a little more like home.

Website navigation menu with options for Italy travel experiences, blog reflections, recipes, and a digital shop for smartphone wallpapers.

Thanks for taking the time to read. I’d love to hear your thoughts!

Please feel free to leave a comment or subscribe for future updates.

A Two-Week Tour of Southern Italy

Posted on by Esterina Anderson

By Daren & Esterina Anderson

We’ve just returned from a two-week swing through southern Italy and have plenty of reflections to share. Our itinerary included some of the country’s most iconic destinations—Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast—as well as lesser-known areas in Calabria, including Tropea and the region around Crotone.

We knew there was a North/South divide in Italy before this trip—but only because we had started looking into it when we were planning our move. Before that, it really wasn’t something we understood or thought much about, despite having been here, watching movies about Italy, and knowing plenty of people with Italian roots. What we didn’t realize is that it’s not exactly something people talk about openly here.

It seems to fall into that category of topics that carry some weight. Not necessarily hidden, but not casually discussed either. And that makes sense, given how much history—and reality—is tied up in it. At the same time, if we didn’t really understand it until recently, we’re guessing a lot of our family and friends don’t either. So we’re going to share what we’re learning!

Part of the reason this divide isn’t widely understood—especially from an American perspective—is because, from the outside, Italy is presented as one cohesive, romantic place. And if you’re just visiting, that’s how it feels. Most trips hit the same highlights—Rome, Florence, Venice, the Amalfi Coast. They’re all beautiful, welcoming, and very used to tourists. It ends up feeling like one seamless experience rather than a collection of very different regions. The deeper differences—economic, cultural, even linguistic—aren’t obvious on a short trip.

Then there’s the version of “Italian culture” many of us grew up with in the U.S., which was largely shaped by Southern Italian immigrants. Over time, that became its own blended identity—food, language, energy, traditions—and it’s easy to assume that’s what all of Italy feels like.

But it’s not that simple. The divide here isn’t dramatic or immediately visible. You can be in both the north and the south and still see stunning towns, have incredible food, and enjoy everyday Italian life. The differences show up more subtly—in how things function, in opportunities, in infrastructure, and in the pace and tone of daily life.

A lot of this traces back to history that most of us were never really taught. Italy only became a unified country in 1861. Before that, it was a collection of separate regions, and they didn’t all develop in the same way. The north industrialized more quickly, while the south faced longer-term economic challenges.

We also tend to generalize countries a bit. We’re used to thinking in big terms. But Italy is incredibly regional—it’s almost like visiting very different parts of the U.S. and calling it all the same experience.

Before we made the move to Italy, we watched a documentary on Italian immigration patterns. It wasn’t until then that we realized that almost all the Italians we knew in the U.S. just happened to have roots from the Naples area, Sicily, and Calabria. It always felt like a coincidence—one of those things you hardly notice so never question. But it’s not a coincidence at all.

We learned the earliest large waves of Italian emigration began in the late 1800s—roughly the 1870s through the early 1900s. At that time, many of the immigrants leaving Italy were from the northern regions, like Piedmont, Veneto, and Lombardy. Many went to South America, particularly Argentina and Brazil, where there was a strong demand for labor and a culture that, in many ways, felt more familiar. But over time the trend changed.

Northern Italy started to industrialize and become more economically stable, while the southern regions—areas like Campania (Naples), Calabria, and Sicily—faced deeper, more systemic poverty and fewer opportunities.

By the late 1800s into the early 1900s, it was southern Italians who began leaving in large numbers. Many still went to South America—again to places like Argentina, Brazil, and Uruguay—but by then those regions were becoming saturated with immigrants. Again the migration patterns changed.

This is when large numbers of Italians began immigrating to North America, particularly between about 1880 and 1920. They came to cities like New York, Boston, Philadelphia, and Chicago, settling into tight-knit communities that many of us still recognize today.

However, unlike earlier migrations, they weren’t always welcomed. Southern Italians, in particular, faced significant discrimination and had to work incredibly hard, often in difficult conditions, to build a life here. Over time, though, they did what immigrants always do—built communities, held onto their traditions, adapted where they needed to, and slowly became part of the fabric of the country.

And so, somewhere along the way, that became the version of “Italian” that many of us grew up with. The food, the energy, the family dynamics—the pizza, the pasta, the loud kitchens and big tables. It’s such a strong and beautiful culture. But it’s also just one part of a much bigger, more complex story.

When you step back and look at Italy overall, you can start to see how all of this may have shaped the divide that still exists today. Entire generations left the south in search of opportunity, while the north continued to industrialize and build wealth. Over time, that created two very different realities within the same country—something that doesn’t just disappear, even after more than a century.

This divide is rooted in history, geography, and economics. Exploring it could easily fill its own blog post, but it’s worth noting that southern Italy is generally less affluent, less developed, and less urbanized than the north, with distinct cultural differences.

What it may lack in infrastructure, however, it more than makes up for—with dramatic scenery, stunning coastlines, rugged mountains, exceptional food, and deep historical roots… most of which we’re only just beginning to explore.

An artistic arrangement featuring a wooden map of Italy, surrounded by traditional Italian dishes such as pasta, risotto, pesto, and fresh tomatoes, set against a backdrop of red, white, and green wooden planks, symbolizing the Italian flag.

So enough on this history lesson & let us tell you about our trip!

Southern Italy

Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast

Our trip began in Sorrento, often considered the gateway to the Amalfi Coast. Perched on a peninsula just south of Naples, Sorrento sits in the shadow of Mount Vesuvius, whose looming presence feels especially ominous if you’re familiar with the story of Pompeii.

Reaching Sorrento involves driving through Naples and then through a series of long tunnels cut through the mountains. Our first impression wasn’t especially favorable: heavy traffic, tight roads, and a seemingly endless swarm of scooters operating by their own unwritten rules. They zipped past us on both sides—even crossing into oncoming traffic on narrow two-lane roads—creating a constant, buzzing chaos that made the drive more stressful than scenic.

After one night in a disappointing rental, we relocated to a comfortable hotel just outside of town. Over the next few days, our impressions improved. We found spots to take in the stunning clifftop views over the Bay of Naples and toward the island of Ischia, enjoyed a few excellent meals, and spent time relaxing by the pool.

Sorrento itself is undeniably touristy. Even in mid-April, the streets were crowded with tour groups, and the narrow shopping lanes were often packed.

One unmistakable theme of the region is lemons. They are everywhere—growing in groves tucked into backyards and terraced along steep hillsides. Many trees are covered with wooden frames and green netting to protect them from the elements. In town, lemon motifs appear on everything from clothing to ceramics to linens. And Esterina just had to buy a pair of lemon pants that she is wearing every few days now.

We took two successive day trips to the Amalfi coast starting with Positano, the first major town on the Amalfi Coast when traveling west to east. The drive alone was unforgettable: narrow, winding roads climbing over mountains before descending toward the sea, with breathtaking views at every turn.

Positano itself is a nearly vertical town cascading down toward the water. It’s undeniably beautiful, though heavily touristed. Still, it charmed us. We had one of the best meals of the trip there—gnocchi and fresh local fish—while Koji rested contentedly under the table. Linen clothing is practically a uniform in the Amalfi towns, and I (Daren) couldn’t resist adding a few pieces to my summer wardrobe.

The beaches here are dark and rocky, shaped by the region’s volcanic origins. Even in April, people were sunbathing and swimming. Koji braved a quick dip; we, lacking swimsuits, did not.

On a second day we came back to see the town of Amalfi itself. While undeniably picturesque from a distance, we found the town smaller, more crowded, and less appealing than Positano. Its narrow spaces felt more congested and shaded, and the density of tourists diminished its charm. In contrast, the journey along the coast—with its dramatic cliffs and buildings perched impossibly above the sea—was the true highlight.

On the way back, we stopped in Maiori, just a few miles away but worlds apart in atmosphere. With a long beach, a relaxed promenade, and far fewer tourists, it felt more authentic. After a leisurely seafood lunch, we spent an hour simply lying on the beach, listening to the waves.

Overall, we left the Amalfi region with mixed feelings. The scenery is undeniably spectacular, but even in shoulder season, the crowds, traffic, and overtourism detract from the experience. It’s hard to imagine what peak summer must be like.

A highlight of our trip was a guided visit to Pompeii which sits between Naples and Sorrento and was easily reached by a ½ hour ride on the regional commuter rail line. With an archaeologist as our guide, the ancient city came vividly to life. Though roofs have largely collapsed under volcanic debris, the layout of streets, buildings, and public spaces remains remarkably intact. We were especially fascinated by the bathhouses, with their distinct hot, warm, and cold rooms, as well as the preserved mosaics and roadways. Our guide’s insights into language—particularly the connection between Latin and modern languages—added an extra layer of interest.

Calabria: Tropea and Beyond

After five days in Sorrento, we headed south to Calabria. The drive itself was a highlight, passing through rolling farmland, green hills, and fields dotted with wildflowers. As we moved farther south, the landscape became more rugged and developed.

Our destination was Tropea, often called the “jewel of Calabria.” Perched atop cliffs overlooking a striking white sand beach, it’s easy to see why. There, we met Esterina’s brother Frank and his girlfriend Mary, who joined us after spending several days in Rome.

Tropea is small but charming, with lots of nice restaurants and a relaxed pace. While still a tourist destination, it felt far more local, with relatively few international visitors. It was beautiful, but a bit rough around the edges. We spent our time enjoying seafood, relaxing on the beach, staying active, and learning about the region’s famous red onions—renowned across Italy for their sweetness and featured prominently in local cuisine.

Family in Crotone

Our final stop was with family in and around Rocca di Neto, near Crotone. As on previous visits, we were welcomed warmly and treated to incredible food and conversation. It was also our best opportunity yet to practice Italian, as few family members speak English.

This visit held special significance: Esterina and Frank brought their father’s remains to be placed in the family mausoleum alongside previous generations.

We spent a day exploring Crotone’s old town and its quiet seaside promenade before gathering for one last family dinner. Crotone, like Tropea, was a mix of historic charm and grittiness. The next morning, we began the long drive back north to Tuscany.

Esterina wrote a lot more about this section of the trip a few days back. You can read about it here: https://esterinaanderson.com/2026/04/26/home-can-be-more-than-a-place/

Final Reflections
Each place we visited had something to offer—and something that didn’t quite land. Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast are undeniably stunning, but also incredibly crowded. Tropea’s beaches are beautiful, but the town itself felt a bit worn, with visible garbage and public spaces that seem overlooked.

But what stayed with us most was the time we spent with family. It was a simple reminder that keeps coming back to us—where you are matters, but who you’re with matters more. And in the end, that’s the part we’ll remember.

Thanks for taking the time to read. We’d love to hear your thoughts!

Please feel free to leave a comment or subscribe for future updates.

The City Pattern

Posted on by Esterina Anderson

Last summer, one Saturday morning when we first started talking about coming to Italy for a year, we were very keen on the idea of moving to a city. Esterina grew up in Brooklyn and Daren had lived in New York City and Boston for several years. We both have fond memories of city living—the energy, the walkability, the simplicity of not needing a car.

We were excited about it for a few days, until one rainy afternoon when we were stuck inside. Esterina asked, “What would we do in a city on a day like today in a small apartment?” That question planted the first seed of doubt.

Later in the fall, while looking for a place to live, we still explored the idea. Our first stop was Bologna—everyone we knew, in and outside of Italy, loved it. It felt like the perfect fit. But after just a few hours of walking around, doubts crept in.

Then came Rome. For a few days, we were convinced that was it. But not long after arriving, something shifted. We found ourselves paying a small fortune just to sit in a park for a bit of greenery. The loud clashing of church bells at noon and the constant sirens made it feel like there was no escape from the noise. Once again, the doubts surfaced—this time more clearly.

We don’t know why we don’t recognize the pattern sooner. We live in Connecticut and love going to New York City. Every time we go, we’re excited and start imagining what it would be like to live there. But after a day or two, something changes. It starts to feel like too much. And when we get home, the birds, the trees, the open space—it all feels exactly right.

Luckily, we gave ourselves enough time in these Italian cities to notice that same shift. It led us to choosing a home in the hills of Tuscany—just 10–15 minutes from town, with everything we need nearby, including a train that gets us to Florence in under half an hour.

This week, we had to go into Florence to swap out our car (a long story), and decided to stay a few days.

And just like that, the draw of the city pulled us in again.

Florence is stunning. Walkable, charming, full of life. We parked the car once and didn’t need it again. That alone felt like such a relief. We started imagining—what if we lived here long-term? Everything felt easy and beautiful.

And the options. After weeks of mostly Italian cuisine (which is incredible, no question), we were suddenly surrounded by variety again. Different foods, big grocery stores, clothing shops, markets, art—everything right there.

It felt exciting. Full.

And then…

The dog had nowhere to go. No grass. Nowhere to sniff. We walked and walked, searching for even a small patch, and came up empty. Eventually, he just went in the middle of the street.

And when we got tired—from all the walking—and wanted a break, the options were shops or our small hotel room. I had that same thought again: where do you go to actually relax?

On our last day, we planned to go to Mercato Centrale—the big open market—before everything closed for Easter. We left the dog at the hotel and headed out, ready to stock up.

We walked in and it was beautiful. The smells, the colors, the energy—it felt magical. The kind of place you imagine having at your fingertips all the time.

And within minutes, we were done.

Too many people. Too many options. Too much navigating, deciding, sampling. We looked at each other and walked out.

We headed back toward the hotel—and toward our poor dog—and realized we’d much rather just go to the local Coop and get what we needed.

We love cities. We really do.
But we love leaving them just as much.
And coming home—where it’s quiet, green, and enough.

And we will be back. Again & again & again. Here is why! (photos below)

Updates from Esterina https://esterinaanderson.com/2026/04/06/on-easter/

Updates from Daren https://esterinaanderson.com/2026/04/06/beauty-in-the-large-and-the-small/

Stone wine selling niche embedded in a wall, featuring an archway and engraved text 'VENDITA di VINO'.
One of the many ancient wine windows in Florence
Night view of the Ponte Vecchio bridge in Florence, Italy, with buildings lining the riverbank reflecting in the Arno River.
A panoramic view of Florence, Italy, showcasing a cityscape with historic buildings, including a tall clock tower and domed structures, framed by tree branches and clear blue skies.
A large bronze sculpture of a human face with a weathered appearance, standing on a metal base in a landscaped garden with trees and greenery in the background.
A panoramic view of Florence, Italy, showcasing historical architecture, including a prominent building with a clock tower, surrounded by lush greenery and mountains in the background under a clear blue sky.
A scenic view of a lush green landscape featuring rolling hills, olive groves, and a castle on a hillside under a clear blue sky.
A smiling man wearing sunglasses stands beside a lush green hedge, dressed in a dark blue shirt and jeans, holding a tan jacket.
A couple posing for a selfie in front of a historic building with a fountain, illuminated by bright sunlight.
A view of a large sculpture of a male figure from behind, looking up towards an ornate circular skylight within a museum interior.
Close-up view of a marble statue depicting a young man with curly hair, deep eyes, and a contemplative expression, showcasing intricate details of the face.
Did you know David’s Eyes are Hearts?
Night view of the Florence Cathedral, showcasing its intricate architecture and dome.
A black dog sitting on a paved surface in front of a historical building, with banners displayed on the wall behind.
A smiling man in a brown jacket stands on a city street, holding the leash of a black dog. In the background, there are shops and pedestrians.
A black dog lying on the floor next to a bookshelf filled with colorful books.
Koji’s first trip into a book store
A bustling square with historic architecture and a cloudy sky, featuring people walking and a row of red rental bikes nearby.
A woman in a purple jacket stands next to a black dog outside a Gucci store, with a sunny street backdrop.
In front of the first Gucci Store!
Exterior view of a restaurant named 'Campolmi' located on a narrow street, with a person walking by and a woman standing in front.
a Yarn Store!!
A woman in a purple jacket stands with a black dog in a crowded city square, featuring historical statues and buildings in the background.
Replica of David

Not New Anymore, Not Quite Routine – Week 4

Posted on by Esterina Anderson

By Esterina & Daren Anderson

Another week under our belt. This was another week about settling into a routine. We had some online work to do. We had a few calls. We did some shopping. Our house is now fully set up, and we can find our way around town pretty well. Nothing especially blog-worthy.

We did take time to adopt one of the rituals of Italian life: Market Day. Most towns in Italy have one, and Italian markets are much more than the typical “farmers market” we see in the U.S. To visualize an Italian market day, picture a good-sized farmers market combined with some food trucks and Walmart spreading all its goods out on tables and trucks in the town square. Market day is as much about shopping for cheap clothes, linens, and kitchenware as it is about artisanal cheese and organic broccoli rabe. You can even buy dog beds. Our town’s market day is Tuesday from 8:30 to 1:00. We took Koji, who now loves markets, and did a good amount of shopping for things we needed around the house. But we made the mistake of then heading to the main grocery store in town, Coop, and doing our weekly shop. This was simply too much shopping and stimulation for one of us (EA). We came home tired and a bit cranky—but well stocked for the week.

A man in a beige jacket explores a market stall filled with assorted colorful items, accompanied by a black dog, with vendors and shoppers visible in the background.
A sunny urban landscape featuring rooftops, tall cypress trees, and a pedestrian crossing sign against a clear blue sky.
A street view showing parked cars along a road, with bare trees on the left side and a stone wall in the background under a clear blue sky.
A bustling outdoor market scene with people shopping for fresh produce under white tents, featuring colorful fruits and vegetables, set against a sunny blue sky and a church in the background.
A bustling outdoor market scene with vendors selling clothing and shoes under large tents. Shoppers walk through the aisles, exploring the merchandise. Bright sunlight illuminates the colorful displays and surrounding buildings.
A vibrant outdoor market scene bustling with shoppers browsing various stalls, with a woman smiling in the foreground wearing a purple jacket and holding a black bag.

This was also a week for exploring our immediate surroundings. We live on a hill, surrounded by more hills. There are farms all around. A flock of sheep grazes in the valley below. There are horses, donkeys, and chickens nearby, as well as the ever-present olive groves and vineyards. Every road is either straight up or straight down. The road leading up to our house is so steep that cars, bikes, and even walking dogs all struggle to make it up. But despite the hills, exploring the area on foot has been fun. There are multiple little streets—paved and dirt—leading to hilltop clusters of farms and houses in all directions.

Esterina explored the area by taking really long runs—one was 90 minutes this week. While she doesn’t intend to be out so long, once she gets out there she keeps seeing roads—either on the map or en route—she wants to explore. She’s always beat when she gets back home, but always has new vistas to describe and a rich collection of sights and sounds to process.

A scenic rural pathway lined with vibrant flowers and greenery, leading towards snow-capped mountains under a partly cloudy sky.
Scenic view of a rural landscape featuring blooming trees, a wooden shed, and a distant house, with mountains in the background under cloudy skies.
Abandoned stone building surrounded by overgrown greenery, with a bright blue sky and fluffy clouds in the background, overlooking a scenic landscape.
A field filled with small white daisies blooming among green grass and scattered leaves.
Snow-covered mountains under a cloudy sky.

New running shoes help. Somehow, she left her running shoes at home and had to buy multiple pairs—cost escalating with each new purchase—before landing on one that felt cushioned and supportive. Sometimes you do get what you pay for. Daren started exploring the surroundings more seriously on his bike. The hills and narrow roads pose a challenge, but it’s also a great way to explore the immediate area more closely.

We had our first major storm this week: two days of heavy, cold wind and rain. The house shook. The doors and windows were drafty. It was so loud that Koji—previously unwilling to hike up the stairs to the second floor—ended up at our bedside in the middle of the night. He was so scared by the noise that he decided to relocate to our bedroom for safety and security.

We’ve decided to work in a mix of day trips, long weekends, and more substantial trips over the next year, with a goal of exploring every corner of Italy. This week we took a day trip on Saturday. Val d’Orcia is in the southern part of Tuscany, and it is home to some of the most iconic scenery in the region. If you’ve seen movies or photos featuring stately rows of cypress trees, hilltop walled cities, rolling hills, fields of green, and ancient stone farmhouses, they were probably filmed in Val d’Orcia.

This region is about 90 minutes from our home, so we headed out on a road trip with a rough route mapped out to take us through the most beautiful scenery and to some of the most picturesque towns. Our first stop was San Quirico d’Orcia, a small town with ancient walls, a beautiful piazza, and a church built in the 11th century. We spent an hour sitting outside at a café, having a light lunch, chatting, and drinking coffee in the main square. Next stop was Bagno Vignoni, an ancient hot springs/thermal bath used since Etruscan times for soaking and healing. Last stop was Pienza, described as the “Jewel of the Val d’Orcia.” It was indeed a jewel.

It’s always a worry that overblown descriptions of beautiful places will leave us disappointed, but that wasn’t the case with Pienza. The beauty exceeded our expectations. Perched high on a hilltop overlooking green fields and rolling hills that extended to the horizon, Pienza was stunning: ancient stone walls and buildings, a Renaissance cathedral, lovely shops and cafés, and some outstanding local products like Pecorino di Val d’Orcia (cheese). We spent several hours strolling the walls, exploring the shops, and taking in the breathtaking views over the valley below. It helped that the weather was perfect—about 60 degrees and bright blue skies.

A vintage blue bicycle decorated with flowers leans against a stone wall next to a window, with potted plants nearby.
Charming street view featuring a stone wall adorned with potted tulips, set against buildings with green shutters and a clear blue sky.
A picturesque street scene in a quaint village, with people walking, sitting at outdoor cafes, and enjoying a sunny day under a clear blue sky. Charming rustic buildings line the street, adorned with greenery and colorful flowers.
A man standing with a black dog in a narrow Italian street, surrounded by greenery and historic buildings. A wooden sign reading 'Camere La Carbonia' hangs on the wall.
A man walking a black dog along a rocky path with a small stream and trees in the background on a sunny day.
A scenic view of a calm body of water surrounded by historic stone buildings with green shutters on a sunny day.
A black dog on a leash, standing by a stone wall, looking out at water. A person in blue jeans and brown shoes can be seen nearby.
A stone well with a metal arch and pulley system, situated in a narrow alley bordered by historic buildings under a clear blue sky.
Scenic view of rolling green hills with a distant farmhouse, surrounded by trees and under a blue sky.
A person in a blue sweater standing on a gravel path beside a black dog, with olive trees and rolling hills in the background.
A rural landscape featuring a red brick farmhouse on a hillside, surrounded by green fields and a few trees, with additional farm buildings in the foreground.
Vast green landscape with rolling hills, a clear blue sky, rows of tall cypress trees, and olive trees in the foreground.
A panoramic view of lush green fields and hills under a clear blue sky, with a small stone house in the foreground and trees scattered throughout the landscape.
A smiling couple wearing sunglasses, standing together in front of a scenic landscape with hills, trees, and a castle in the background under a blue sky with clouds.
A white car parked on the side of a road, with a person and a dog inside. The person is waving, and there are olive trees in the background.

We’d like to say that the day ended on a high note with a great meal and a relaxing evening. But reality needed to reassert itself after a magical day. This isn’t a storybook—it’s real life. Things can’t be too perfect. After taking in all the sights in Pienza, we decided to head home, order takeout, and watch a movie. This had been a standard ritual back home, usually on Friday or Saturday night. And takeout meant Indian food.

We were very excited to find that Italy has its own version of Uber Eats (called Deliveroo), and on Deliveroo there was Indian food: Tandoori and Curry House in nearby San Giovanni. We placed our standard order: samosas, garlic naan, chicken tikka masala, and saag paneer, with kheer (rice pudding) for dessert. We laid out a tablecloth on our coffee table for some meal-in-front-of-the-TV dining and waited. And waited. And waited. It took well over an hour for the order to arrive. By then it was nearly 8:30 p.m. “Hangry” summarizes the mood.

When it finally arrived, we discovered that Indian food—at least in Italy—doesn’t come with rice unless you order it (we didn’t). So add 20 minutes to whip up some rice. Finally, time to eat… the most disgusting food we’ve ever tasted. It looked vaguely like Indian food, but there the similarities ended. Imagine chicken cubes with some onions and a bottle of Ragu tomato sauce. And a handful of frozen spinach thawed in the microwave and mixed with cubes of paneer cheese.

Esterina bailed and had popcorn. Daren suffered through the horror. And then the movie was terrible. We chose Mary Supreme, and after a dog burst into flame halfway through, we looked at each other and said, “Why are we watching this?”

How silly. None of this matters in the least, but when you change up your life and make a big move, there is a learning curve. Some things don’t translate well. And if you expect to replicate routines and comforts of home, you may be disappointed. But who could complain even slightly after a day exploring one of the most beautiful places on earth? Even we couldn’t really manage it—other than to laugh and go to bed with a smirk and a reminder that nothing is perfect.

Update from Esterina this week: https://esterinaanderson.com/2026/03/29/beef-stew/

Update on musings from Daren this week: https://esterinaanderson.com/2026/03/29/learning-the-rhythm-of-italy/

Thanks for taking the time to read. We’d love to hear your thoughts!

Please feel free to leave a comment or subscribe for future updates.