Last summer, one Saturday morning when we first started talking about coming to Italy for a year, we were very keen on the idea of moving to a city. Esterina grew up in Brooklyn and Daren had lived in New York City and Boston for several years. We both have fond memories of city living—the energy, the walkability, the simplicity of not needing a car.
We were excited about it for a few days, until one rainy afternoon when we were stuck inside. Esterina asked, “What would we do in a city on a day like today in a small apartment?” That question planted the first seed of doubt.
Later in the fall, while looking for a place to live, we still explored the idea. Our first stop was Bologna—everyone we knew, in and outside of Italy, loved it. It felt like the perfect fit. But after just a few hours of walking around, doubts crept in.
Then came Rome. For a few days, we were convinced that was it. But not long after arriving, something shifted. We found ourselves paying a small fortune just to sit in a park for a bit of greenery. The loud clashing of church bells at noon and the constant sirens made it feel like there was no escape from the noise. Once again, the doubts surfaced—this time more clearly.
We don’t know why we don’t recognize the pattern sooner. We live in Connecticut and love going to New York City. Every time we go, we’re excited and start imagining what it would be like to live there. But after a day or two, something changes. It starts to feel like too much. And when we get home, the birds, the trees, the open space—it all feels exactly right.
Luckily, we gave ourselves enough time in these Italian cities to notice that same shift. It led us to choosing a home in the hills of Tuscany—just 10–15 minutes from town, with everything we need nearby, including a train that gets us to Florence in under half an hour.
This week, we had to go into Florence to swap out our car (a long story), and decided to stay a few days.
And just like that, the draw of the city pulled us in again.
Florence is stunning. Walkable, charming, full of life. We parked the car once and didn’t need it again. That alone felt like such a relief. We started imagining—what if we lived here long-term? Everything felt easy and beautiful.
And the options. After weeks of mostly Italian cuisine (which is incredible, no question), we were suddenly surrounded by variety again. Different foods, big grocery stores, clothing shops, markets, art—everything right there.
It felt exciting. Full.
And then…
The dog had nowhere to go. No grass. Nowhere to sniff. We walked and walked, searching for even a small patch, and came up empty. Eventually, he just went in the middle of the street.
And when we got tired—from all the walking—and wanted a break, the options were shops or our small hotel room. I had that same thought again: where do you go to actually relax?
On our last day, we planned to go to Mercato Centrale—the big open market—before everything closed for Easter. We left the dog at the hotel and headed out, ready to stock up.
We walked in and it was beautiful. The smells, the colors, the energy—it felt magical. The kind of place you imagine having at your fingertips all the time.
And within minutes, we were done.
Too many people. Too many options. Too much navigating, deciding, sampling. We looked at each other and walked out.
We headed back toward the hotel—and toward our poor dog—and realized we’d much rather just go to the local Coop and get what we needed.
We love cities. We really do. But we love leaving them just as much. And coming home—where it’s quiet, green, and enough.
And we will be back. Again & again & again. Here is why! (photos below)
One of the many ancient wine windows in FlorenceDid you know David’s Eyes are Hearts? Koji’s first trip into a book storeIn front of the first Gucci Store!a Yarn Store!! Replica of David
Another week under our belt. This was another week about settling into a routine. We had some online work to do. We had a few calls. We did some shopping. Our house is now fully set up, and we can find our way around town pretty well. Nothing especially blog-worthy.
We did take time to adopt one of the rituals of Italian life: Market Day. Most towns in Italy have one, and Italian markets are much more than the typical “farmers market” we see in the U.S. To visualize an Italian market day, picture a good-sized farmers market combined with some food trucks and Walmart spreading all its goods out on tables and trucks in the town square. Market day is as much about shopping for cheap clothes, linens, and kitchenware as it is about artisanal cheese and organic broccoli rabe. You can even buy dog beds. Our town’s market day is Tuesday from 8:30 to 1:00. We took Koji, who now loves markets, and did a good amount of shopping for things we needed around the house. But we made the mistake of then heading to the main grocery store in town, Coop, and doing our weekly shop. This was simply too much shopping and stimulation for one of us (EA). We came home tired and a bit cranky—but well stocked for the week.
This was also a week for exploring our immediate surroundings. We live on a hill, surrounded by more hills. There are farms all around. A flock of sheep grazes in the valley below. There are horses, donkeys, and chickens nearby, as well as the ever-present olive groves and vineyards. Every road is either straight up or straight down. The road leading up to our house is so steep that cars, bikes, and even walking dogs all struggle to make it up. But despite the hills, exploring the area on foot has been fun. There are multiple little streets—paved and dirt—leading to hilltop clusters of farms and houses in all directions.
Esterina explored the area by taking really long runs—one was 90 minutes this week. While she doesn’t intend to be out so long, once she gets out there she keeps seeing roads—either on the map or en route—she wants to explore. She’s always beat when she gets back home, but always has new vistas to describe and a rich collection of sights and sounds to process.
New running shoes help. Somehow, she left her running shoes at home and had to buy multiple pairs—cost escalating with each new purchase—before landing on one that felt cushioned and supportive. Sometimes you do get what you pay for. Daren started exploring the surroundings more seriously on his bike. The hills and narrow roads pose a challenge, but it’s also a great way to explore the immediate area more closely.
We had our first major storm this week: two days of heavy, cold wind and rain. The house shook. The doors and windows were drafty. It was so loud that Koji—previously unwilling to hike up the stairs to the second floor—ended up at our bedside in the middle of the night. He was so scared by the noise that he decided to relocate to our bedroom for safety and security.
We’ve decided to work in a mix of day trips, long weekends, and more substantial trips over the next year, with a goal of exploring every corner of Italy. This week we took a day trip on Saturday. Val d’Orcia is in the southern part of Tuscany, and it is home to some of the most iconic scenery in the region. If you’ve seen movies or photos featuring stately rows of cypress trees, hilltop walled cities, rolling hills, fields of green, and ancient stone farmhouses, they were probably filmed in Val d’Orcia.
This region is about 90 minutes from our home, so we headed out on a road trip with a rough route mapped out to take us through the most beautiful scenery and to some of the most picturesque towns. Our first stop was San Quirico d’Orcia, a small town with ancient walls, a beautiful piazza, and a church built in the 11th century. We spent an hour sitting outside at a café, having a light lunch, chatting, and drinking coffee in the main square. Next stop was Bagno Vignoni, an ancient hot springs/thermal bath used since Etruscan times for soaking and healing. Last stop was Pienza, described as the “Jewel of the Val d’Orcia.” It was indeed a jewel.
It’s always a worry that overblown descriptions of beautiful places will leave us disappointed, but that wasn’t the case with Pienza. The beauty exceeded our expectations. Perched high on a hilltop overlooking green fields and rolling hills that extended to the horizon, Pienza was stunning: ancient stone walls and buildings, a Renaissance cathedral, lovely shops and cafés, and some outstanding local products like Pecorino di Val d’Orcia (cheese). We spent several hours strolling the walls, exploring the shops, and taking in the breathtaking views over the valley below. It helped that the weather was perfect—about 60 degrees and bright blue skies.
We’d like to say that the day ended on a high note with a great meal and a relaxing evening. But reality needed to reassert itself after a magical day. This isn’t a storybook—it’s real life. Things can’t be too perfect. After taking in all the sights in Pienza, we decided to head home, order takeout, and watch a movie. This had been a standard ritual back home, usually on Friday or Saturday night. And takeout meant Indian food.
We were very excited to find that Italy has its own version of Uber Eats (called Deliveroo), and on Deliveroo there was Indian food: Tandoori and Curry House in nearby San Giovanni. We placed our standard order: samosas, garlic naan, chicken tikka masala, and saag paneer, with kheer (rice pudding) for dessert. We laid out a tablecloth on our coffee table for some meal-in-front-of-the-TV dining and waited. And waited. And waited. It took well over an hour for the order to arrive. By then it was nearly 8:30 p.m. “Hangry” summarizes the mood.
When it finally arrived, we discovered that Indian food—at least in Italy—doesn’t come with rice unless you order it (we didn’t). So add 20 minutes to whip up some rice. Finally, time to eat… the most disgusting food we’ve ever tasted. It looked vaguely like Indian food, but there the similarities ended. Imagine chicken cubes with some onions and a bottle of Ragu tomato sauce. And a handful of frozen spinach thawed in the microwave and mixed with cubes of paneer cheese.
Esterina bailed and had popcorn. Daren suffered through the horror. And then the movie was terrible. We chose Mary Supreme, and after a dog burst into flame halfway through, we looked at each other and said, “Why are we watching this?”
How silly. None of this matters in the least, but when you change up your life and make a big move, there is a learning curve. Some things don’t translate well. And if you expect to replicate routines and comforts of home, you may be disappointed. But who could complain even slightly after a day exploring one of the most beautiful places on earth? Even we couldn’t really manage it—other than to laugh and go to bed with a smirk and a reminder that nothing is perfect.
Another week under our belt. This was another week about settling into a routine. We had some online work to do. We had a few calls. We did some shopping. Our house is now fully set up, and we can find our way around town pretty well. Nothing especially blog-worthy.
We did take time to adopt one of the rituals of Italian life: Market Day. Most towns in Italy have one, and Italian markets are much more than the typical “farmers market” we see in the U.S. To visualize an Italian market day, picture a good-sized farmers market combined with some food trucks and Walmart spreading all its goods out on tables and trucks in the town square. Market day is as much about shopping for cheap clothes, linens, and kitchenware as it is about artisanal cheese and organic broccoli rabe. You can even buy dog beds. Our town’s market day is Tuesday from 8:30 to 1:00. We took Koji, who now loves markets, and did a good amount of shopping for things we needed around the house. But we made the mistake of then heading to the main grocery store in town, Coop, and doing our weekly shop. This was simply too much shopping and stimulation for one of us (EA). We came home tired and a bit cranky—but well stocked for the week.
This was also a week for exploring our immediate surroundings. We live on a hill, surrounded by more hills. There are farms all around. A flock of sheep grazes in the valley below. There are horses, donkeys, and chickens nearby, as well as the ever-present olive groves and vineyards. Every road is either straight up or straight down. The road leading up to our house is so steep that cars, bikes, and even walking dogs all struggle to make it up. But despite the hills, exploring the area on foot has been fun. There are multiple little streets—paved and dirt—leading to hilltop clusters of farms and houses in all directions.
Esterina explored the area by taking really long runs—one was 90 minutes this week. While she doesn’t intend to be out so long, once she gets out there she keeps seeing roads—either on the map or en route—she wants to explore. She’s always beat when she gets back home, but always has new vistas to describe and a rich collection of sights and sounds to process.
New running shoes help. Somehow, she left her running shoes at home and had to buy multiple pairs—cost escalating with each new purchase—before landing on one that felt cushioned and supportive. Sometimes you do get what you pay for. Daren started exploring the surroundings more seriously on his bike. The hills and narrow roads pose a challenge, but it’s also a great way to explore the immediate area more closely.
We had our first major storm this week: two days of heavy, cold wind and rain. The house shook. The doors and windows were drafty. It was so loud that Koji—previously unwilling to hike up the stairs to the second floor—ended up at our bedside in the middle of the night. He was so scared by the noise that he decided to relocate to our bedroom for safety and security.
We’ve decided to work in a mix of day trips, long weekends, and more substantial trips over the next year, with a goal of exploring every corner of Italy. This week we took a day trip on Saturday. Val d’Orcia is in the southern part of Tuscany, and it is home to some of the most iconic scenery in the region. If you’ve seen movies or photos featuring stately rows of cypress trees, hilltop walled cities, rolling hills, fields of green, and ancient stone farmhouses, they were probably filmed in Val d’Orcia.
This region is about 90 minutes from our home, so we headed out on a road trip with a rough route mapped out to take us through the most beautiful scenery and to some of the most picturesque towns. Our first stop was San Quirico d’Orcia, a small town with ancient walls, a beautiful piazza, and a church built in the 11th century. We spent an hour sitting outside at a café, having a light lunch, chatting, and drinking coffee in the main square. Next stop was Bagno Vignoni, an ancient hot springs/thermal bath used since Etruscan times for soaking and healing. Last stop was Pienza, described as the “Jewel of the Val d’Orcia.” It was indeed a jewel.
It’s always a worry that overblown descriptions of beautiful places will leave us disappointed, but that wasn’t the case with Pienza. The beauty exceeded our expectations. Perched high on a hilltop overlooking green fields and rolling hills that extended to the horizon, Pienza was stunning: ancient stone walls and buildings, a Renaissance cathedral, lovely shops and cafés, and some outstanding local products like Pecorino di Val d’Orcia (cheese). We spent several hours strolling the walls, exploring the shops, and taking in the breathtaking views over the valley below. It helped that the weather was perfect—about 60 degrees and bright blue skies.
We’d like to say that the day ended on a high note with a great meal and a relaxing evening. But reality needed to reassert itself after a magical day. This isn’t a storybook—it’s real life. Things can’t be too perfect. After taking in all the sights in Pienza, we decided to head home, order takeout, and watch a movie. This had been a standard ritual back home, usually on Friday or Saturday night. And takeout meant Indian food.
We were very excited to find that Italy has its own version of Uber Eats (called Deliveroo), and on Deliveroo there was Indian food: Tandoori and Curry House in nearby San Giovanni. We placed our standard order: samosas, garlic naan, chicken tikka masala, and saag paneer, with kheer (rice pudding) for dessert. We laid out a tablecloth on our coffee table for some meal-in-front-of-the-TV dining and waited. And waited. And waited. It took well over an hour for the order to arrive. By then it was nearly 8:30 p.m. “Hangry” summarizes the mood.
When it finally arrived, we discovered that Indian food—at least in Italy—doesn’t come with rice unless you order it (we didn’t). So add 20 minutes to whip up some rice. Finally, time to eat… the most disgusting food we’ve ever tasted. It looked vaguely like Indian food, but there the similarities ended. Imagine chicken cubes with some onions and a bottle of Ragu tomato sauce. And a handful of frozen spinach thawed in the microwave and mixed with cubes of paneer cheese.
Esterina bailed and had popcorn. Daren suffered through the horror. And then the movie was terrible. We chose Mary Supreme, and after a dog burst into flame halfway through, we looked at each other and said, “Why are we watching this?”
How silly. None of this matters in the least, but when you change up your life and make a big move, there is a learning curve. Some things don’t translate well. And if you expect to replicate routines and comforts of home, you may be disappointed. But who could complain even slightly after a day exploring one of the most beautiful places on earth? Even we couldn’t really manage it—other than to laugh and go to bed with a smirk and a reminder that nothing is perfect.
Ciao, buongiorno. It’s Saturday again, and today we are writing from a beautiful balcony in Santa Margherita Ligure, Liguria. I can’t believe a week has passed since I last sat down to write.
Last Saturday we attended one of the local Market Days. Market Day is really a thing in Italy. While we had some experience in the US with local farmers markets, usually during the summer months, these have little in common with an Italian town’s market day. Each town in our region has a different market day, and some of them have themes. There are markets that emphasize home goods and clothes. There is one that emphasizes antiques. Others are more food-focused. In general, they start in the morning and last until 1 pm. Streets are blocked off and market vendors park their trucks and lay out their goods on tables, clothing racks, and display cases. Some are larger than others, but so far the markets we’ve been to are lively and fun. It’s early spring now, so the fresh produce is somewhat limited, but what is available is incredibly fresh. Artichokes are in season as are strawberries from the south of Italy. Heads of lettuce are gorgeous and so tasty. We’ve started building markets into our weekly schedule, testing out different ones nearby to decide on which one we like best.
Last Saturday we visited the largest market in our area, San Giovani Valdarno. There was pretty much everything you could imagine—from food to shoes to housewares. We bought a good amount of produce from a vendor for very little money. After we paid, Daren noticed the famed Tropean onions, so we asked for a few of those too. These onions are a specific type of red onion from Tropea in Calabria reputed to be the sweetest and tastiest in Italy. But gasp—the onions cost as much as our large bag of produce! We’re heading to Tropea in a few weeks to meet up with my brother and his girlfriend Mary, so maybe they’ll be less expensive there. Daren whipped together a beautiful meal for us that evening using the onions, some garlic, olives, capers and a delicious swordfish steak.
After shopping in the market we stopped in the square for coffee and a bite to eat. A lot of these little “bars” are really coffee and drink shops with a few sandwich and pastry options. There was a whole section of non alcoholic cocktail options, so we enjoyed a coffee and a NA Negroni. It was quite good!
Expensive (caro) Tropean onions!
Sunday we “wasted” (definitely not the right word) most of the day mapping out how we want to spend the year traveling. It took way longer than we could have imagined, but we now have at least a loose outline of what we’d like to do and when. The only trip we actually booked is the one we’re on now.
After some exercise, we spent the rest of the day on our patio reading and enjoying the sun.
Monday through Wednesday we settled in to do some work. See Daren’s post for more on our new version of work. Some of it was actual paid work, and the rest was creative—writing, updating WordPress, sorting photos, and communicating with people back home about business and house things. We can’t even tell you where the time went—it flew by—but it felt good to settle into a bit of a routine.
We cooked dinner each night, and made NA drinks. On Tuesday, we had a St. Patrick’s Day mocktail. It’s not a holiday celebrated here—there wasn’t a single reference to it anywhere. However, we’ve learned that St. Joseph’s Day (March 19th) is widely celebrated in Italy. Growing up with my Italian father (Esterina), we celebrated with zeppole. We also read that it’s considered Father’s Day in Italy, which makes sense since Joseph was Jesus’ father. But again, there wasn’t any mention of it in stores or around town.
Meanwhile, Pasqua (Easter) is everywhere—bakeries, grocery stores, signage, ads. It’s very clearly “advertised,” if that’s the right word. But St. Joseph’s Day seemed to come and go without much notice, aside from a meme that Uncle Joe sent in our family text thread.
Naughty dog on the couch where he is NOT allowed, who knows why he is posing and staying here…. ?
Thursday, we got up at a leisurely pace, packed up the dog, the car, and some lunch and snacks, and headed to Liguria. We’re here for just three nights—and somehow it feels like both enough and not enough.
First, WOW. This part of the country is colorful and vibrant. Our landlord had told us about the cuisine here, and it’s exactly as she described. We’ll share more thoughts on the food separately, but for now let’s just say—it has been excellent. Seafood, pasta, and pesto. We learned from Stanley Tucci’s “Searching for Italy” food series that this region of Italy, also known as the Italian Riviera, is the home of pesto. And we’ve had pesto in some form in every meal we’ve had out since arriving.
Liguria stretches along the coast from the French border down to Tuscany and is home to some of the MOST scenic towns in all of Italy. If you’ve seen photos of vibrantly colorful buildings perched on steep cliffs descending down to the Mediterranean, there is a good chance it was from Liguria. The famed region of Cinque Terre is among the most beautiful.
Another thing that feels oddly different is the temperature. It’s technically the same as back home in Figline (Tuscany), but it feels so much warmer here. We’re dressed for late winter/early spring, just like everyone else, but it’s completely comfortable sitting outside to write or eat. At home, at this same temperature, we’d definitely be freezing.
Thursday night we walked around, tried the signature dish from the region: pesto with potatoes, pasta, and string beans (so, so good), and had a long, romantic dinner on a charming little shopping street in town.
Koji allowed inside the first rest stop of his dog lifeKoji getting to dip his paws in the Med
Yesterday morning we woke up gently (with Koji licking himself) and went for a walk with him along the seaside promenade as the sun rose over the hills in the distance. We watched the town come to life as the morning unfolded: vendors opening their gates, men sweeping the streets, morning commuters on motorbikes heading to work.
We came back to our albergo (hotelin Italiano) and had breakfast, then put on our walking shoes and made the journey from Santa Margherita to Portofino. There is only one road into and out of Portofino. It is incredibly narrow and winding, and we’d heard that there is almost no place to park in the town. The universal recommendation was to walk the 5km (about 2.7 miles). There are two ways to walk to Portofino, along the road, or hiking through the hills on well marked trails—we chose the non-hiking route. The weather couldn’t have been more perfect.
The walk—and Portofino itself—was nothing short of breathtaking. We’ll let the photos do the talking. But we agree that this town is one of the most stunningly beautiful places we’ve ever visited. We spent much of the day with our mouths figuratively open, marveling at the view as it seemed to keep getting better and better.
Tired after the walk back and a day spent in a near-constant state of awe, we kept the evening simple with Friday night pizza, bringing Koji along to a small restaurant down the street. He sat right under our table and appreciatively gobbled down the pizza crusts we shared with him.
Side note: Koji is welcome everywhere. And we mean everywhere. We knew this from reading about dogs in Italy, but it’s still surprising to experience. He comes into shops with us, even grocery stores, sits at our feet during breakfast and dinner—even indoors. Dogs are truly and completely welcome almost everywhere. And he’s been such a good boy about it all (mostly)…
Oggi (today) And now here we are—this glorious Saturday morning. Still “on vacation” in the midst of our year-long sabbatical. We’re not used to this kind of freedom yet. There’s no rush. If we want to stay an extra day, we can. If we want to come back next weekend, we can. We don’t have to cram in every church, fresco and museum to make the most of it.
In fact, we almost did. We were this close to hopping on a train to squeeze in one of the Cinque Terre towns. But why rush it? Why pick just one and try to fit it all in? We can come back to see them all at a leisurely pace —and we will!
That’s the bigger shift happening for us right now. We’re not entirely sure yet how we’ll spend our time or how this new rhythm will feel. It’s unfamiliar, this slower cadence, this openness. But we’re very happy to be learning it, to let our mindset shift along with it.
For now, we’re just here—on this balcony, in this moment—letting it all unfold.
Back in 2010, when Daren and I first got together, I remember my brother Mario talking about a theory he had about slowing down life. At the time I was only 34 and thought I was so old, and of course—like all of us—I thought slowing life down sounded important. I won’t go into Mario’s really cool theory here, but it does involve shaking things up and changing your baseline.
Why am I saying this? Because as I sit down this Saturday morning to write about our experience in Italy, I’m floored that it’s only been a week. It feels like so much longer—and that, my friends, is a good thing. It feels like a month has gone by in a week, and at least for this week my life has slowed down.
One truly amazing thing for me that began this week was my sleep. For nearly the past year—ever since I first started thinking early retirement might be possible—I’ve been waking in the middle of the night and struggling for at least an hour or two to fall back asleep. At first it was the possibility that early retirement could happen. Then it was waiting for the VA’s interpretation of early retirement rules. Then the paperwork finally came out. I applied. I was approved. I had two weeks left of work.
Then my father-in-law got into a bike accident. There were issues with one of the kids. My father had his last hospital visit and subsequently passed away. And then we realized that with my retirement, Daren could also retire—and we decided that we wanted to move to Italy so I could pursue Italian citizenship and we could experience at least a year living in another country.
Daren’s retirement. Kid issues. Turning 50. All the excitement, setbacks, and obstacles had me waking up around 2:30 every night.
Until this week.
It’s been at least five nights now that I’ve slept soundly. I cannot tell you how refreshing this is. I feel like a new person.
Slower time—and a good night’s sleep—will do that to you.
So what have we been up to?
Saturday, March 7
We last blogged last Saturday.
That afternoon, after sending the link to our blog out to friends, loved ones, and social media, we went for a hike. Daren had been exploring more on foot than I had, so we took the dog, donned the hiking boots, and set out to walk.
There are multiple hiking trails right off our property—some literally starting on the property and others just down the street. The day was absolutely gorgeous. Spring is blooming here: daffodils, flowering trees, and tons of tiny wildflowers everywhere—on the walls, alongside roads, in the grass. It’s so pretty. Everything feels new to us and new to the season. It almost feels like providence that we arrived just as the season is opening up for a new experience.
Side note: Last week we ended up shopping every single day. While still in the U.S. I made a really good list of what we’d need to purchase upon arrival (a lot more than you’d think). Right before we left I placed a large Amazon order for items we knew we needed immediately—dog food, a dog bed, vitamins—things for which we wouldn’t want to spend much time comparison-shopping.
After that, though, we wanted to shop locally as much as possible.
We both love to cook, and when you start from scratch with spices, ingredients, and kitchen implements—bowls, measuring cups, a hand mixer, rubber spatulas, just to name a few—you end up needing an obscene amount of things. Cooking, health, and baking are important to us, so it was worth the trips and expense, but it definitely took some doing.
Back to Saturday… after hiking and feeling refreshed, we (not surprisingly) needed to shop again. We left the dog at home this time and decided we’d like to go out for gelato for the first time before shopping.
It was about 2 p.m., and we hadn’t really explored our own town yet, so we headed toward the town square. What we’ve been repeatedly surprised by is how everything closes in the middle of the afternoon. This is no joke. Even the gelato shop was closed!
Everything opens again around 3:30 or 4, but there is truly almost nothing open in the middle of the day. There are certain assumptions in the U.S. about how Europeans—and Italians in particular—live. Some of them are absolutely true. This midday closure, at least outside tourist areas, is definitely one of them.
We ended up at a pasticceria instead and had coffee (mini coffees—the norm here) and pastries before heading to the grocery store.
And whoa—the grocery store was a madhouse. A true scene. This must be when all the locals who work during the day do their shopping. There was no parking where we had parked before, but we eventually found an underground parking area we didn’t know existed.
It was chaotic and kind of fun to be in the middle of the bustle of a Saturday early evening in Italy. By this point we’d been in enough stores to know the lay of the land, so we grabbed what we needed without too much fuss and headed home.
From Daren:
That evening we went out to dinner for the first time right up the street at a place that serves pizza just once a week, and by up the street we mean up a very steep hill. We had learned from our landlord that about a quarter of a mile from our home there is a small community hall or meeting room on the second floor above a small store. Apparently, many of the local “nonnas” (grandmothers), come together every Saturday to make and serve pizza in the community room. We were somewhat suspicious and uncertain how this might work. But after parking the lot across the street we found things exactly as described: a large community room filled with local Italian families, a squad of elderly men serving tables, and a large kitchen with a team of elderly women making pizza. There was a menu, a range of drink and pizza options, and after about a 30 minute wait after ordering, two tasty pizzas to eat. We are still sorting out what “pizza” means in Italy. It’s not clear how much regional variation there is, but so far “pizza” has meant something round with cheese, tomatoes and toppings. While this sounds a lot like home, the similarities end with the shape and the components. What has been strikingly different has been the width of the crust. This pizza, and others we’ve had since, are incredibly thin. More like flatbread. And no Italian pizza is ever cut into slices, so you tackle it with a knife and fork and later use your hands after working it down into smaller sections. Whether similar or not, the pizza is delicious. We most enjoyed being surrounded by local Italians talking, laughing, gesticulating, and clearly enjoying a shared meal in their community. Notably, there were very few phones visible. Conversation and camaraderie were preferred over scrolling!
Hiking
Sunday, March 8
Now that the house and shopping basics were set up, we were ready to venture outside of town and see what was around us.
I’ll let the photos speak for themselves.
We went to Greve in Chianti first, and then right down the road to a small hilltop town that was ridiculously picturesque. These two small towns in the heart of Chianti were packed with Tuscan/Medieval charm and we felt like we’d taken a trip back in time as we surveyed the city walls and walked through the central piazza.
March 8 was International Women’s Day, and it’s a much bigger deal here than in the U.S. Mimosa flowers were everywhere. There were free drinks for women and all kinds of celebrations happening wherever we went.
On the way home we (yet again) needed to grab a few things from the grocery store. We stopped at Lidl—the only store open past about 1 p.m. on Sundays. We had gone there the previous week and vowed never to shop there again, but this time we were pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to find things and how inexpensive everything was. It takes some time getting the lay of the land in a new grocery store and a new country!
We will be back. Both to Greve and Lidls that is!
Take a close look at Amazon box on the door, truly up a hill in the middle of no where! haha
Monday, March 9
We had so much fun visiting a new town on Sunday that we decided to do it again. This time the destination was Arezzo, by train.
Again, I’ll let the photos speak for themselves.
I was tired—just beat. I’m not sure if it was the Zyrtec I’m taking for allergies or if I’m finally unwinding now that we’re here and settled, but I was too tired to really enjoy the city. Because of that, I had no interest in exploring the art or churches. Daren enjoyed it very, very much.
I found the city a little “meh.” The lunch we had was terrible. It wasn’t my favorite day or my favorite place—but to be fair, I didn’t really give it a chance either. I was just spent.
And just like that – Womens Day is over…
Tuesday, March 10
We needed to be home Tuesday (blessedly) for our washer and dryer delivery and a conference call related to our new consulting LLC.
I headed out on my first solo run. I jogged and walked (lots of hills!) for 5.6 miles and oh my gosh it was exhilarating. I hadn’t exercised in well over a week and it felt amazing. And the scenery!
I was out for 75 minutes and honestly didn’t want to come back.
When I got home the washer and dryer had arrived—yay! Laundry again.
From past Airbnb experiences in Europe I remembered that laundry machines were not the same as in the U.S., so I was prepared for very low-functioning machines that would take forever, especially since we bought inexpensive models. But we were pleasantly surprised! Nowhere near as large or powerful as what we had back home, but much better than I expected. Daren was worried that without 220 voltage electricity as we have in the US for dryers, we’d never get the clothes dry. But much to our surprise, after about 1.5 hours, we had a fully dry load of laundry.
Overall—a great surprise.
Wednesday, March 11
This was a day of work and figuring out how we want our life here to look.
Since I stopped working last June, I’d developed a routine that loosely mirrored Daren’s workday—exercise, showering, and daily activities earlier in the day while he worked. He worked right up until the day before we left, so now that we’re here and somewhat settled, we needed to build a new kind of day where we’re both home.
At first we kind of assumed we’d each keep doing our same routines. But it quickly became clear that wasn’t really going to work.
So like the two weird geeks we are, we grabbed paper, pens, and a computer and headed to a little café with Wi-Fi to try to level-set our expectations about what a typical day might look like.
I’d love to tell you we figured it all out.
But instead we got very jazzed about traveling and spent most of the time talking about all the places we want to visit while we’re on this side of the pond. We started mapping out what times of year would be best to visit certain places when we suddenly realized the time.
Another conference call was coming up, so we headed home. We need to revisit the conversation about a daily routine and still figure out the travel. No rush, we have time! It’s hard to get used to the concept, I’m sure we will but for now the idea of “no rush” is still incredibly novel.
Thursday, March 12
Another day at home. No meetings. Lots of computer work.
And another long run for me.
I thought the first run might have been the magical one—the “first time back” effect—but this run was even better. I took a slightly different route and tried to dodge some inevitable rain. It wasn’t the sunniest day, but I was completely in the moment and in awe of the scenery.
I took a ton of photos.
Which inspired me to come home and start playing around with editing them. After a warm shower and the need to rest my legs from the hills, that’s exactly what I did.
Daren also went for a run, and in the mid-afternoon we both ended up parked on the couch doing our own things. He read and I edited photos. It felt so nice to just be and to be creative that we abandoned the swordfish we had defrosting on the counter and decided instead to stay right where we were, order a pizza, and watch a movie.
Our first pizza delivery in Italy using “Deliveroo”, a European version of Uber eats delivered by scooter—smooth process and really different, but delicious.
Friday, March 13
And then yesterday—oh my.
We woke up leisurely, had breakfast and coffee, and then packed a day bag, ushered the dog into the back seat of the car, and headed out to San Gimignano.
The day was perfectly sunny and warm—about 15–16°C (in the 60s°F)—and the town was adorable. The walled city was full of tourists, but as I texted my friends back home, there’s a reason some places are touristy.
Lunch was phenomenal—exactly how I remember food in Tuscany from our first trip here ten years ago.
Afterward we stopped at a nature preserve. It honestly wasn’t the prettiest hike and probably not somewhere I’d recommend, but it was exhilarating to be out in nature after the bustle of tourists, a great lunch, and browsing through shops full of seriously beautiful things.
San Gimignano is just over an hour away. The drive there and back was just as beautiful as being there. I drove there and Daren drove back. We took different routes and each got the experience of navigating the hills and simply looking out the window.
The ride home was magical. The sun was setting while spring showers came and went, so the lighting was gorgeous. We played an 80s music mix and sang along, jokingly trying to translate lyrics into Italy, while driving through the hills, just feeling alive.
Dinner was simple—some appetizers with delicious local cheeses we had picked up earlier. Then we collapsed onto the sofa for another movie before heading to bed, truly satisfied and grateful for the experiences we’re lucky enough to be having.
We miss everyone back home. Feel free to comment here. Feel free to text us. Keep in touch please!
