The Italy Situation: A Dog’s Perspective

By Koji Anderson

After yet another terrifying, then exhilarating experience yesterday, I believe it’s finally time I tell you what this whole Italy thing has been like from my point of view.

First of all — this is Koji.

Most of you probably know me already, but if not, my mommy and daddy are Esterina and Daren. Mommy is helping me write this because, despite my many talents, typing is apparently beyond my skill set.

It all started with the crate.

I hadn’t seen a crate since I was a tiny puppy. Back then I actually liked it. One day it disappeared, which I assumed meant I had proven myself trustworthy enough not to destroy the house while nobody was home.

Then suddenly, eleven years later, a giant crate appeared in the living room.

This one was sturdier. More serious.

Naturally, I climbed right in because I remembered the assignment. Also, every time I went inside, treats appeared. Sometimes daddy closed the door and left me in there for a while. Honestly? Not bad. Cozy enough. The crate sat next to my dog bed for weeks, so eventually I stopped questioning it.

Then one day the house became chaos.

Suitcases.
Humans moving quickly.
Doors opening and closing.
Stress smells.

And then somehow the crate came too.

I knew we were going on an adventure because suitcases always mean somebody disappears for a while. The trick is figuring out whether I’m included. I watch carefully for clues:

  • Is my food being packed?
  • Is my travel bed involved?
  • Has someone picked up my leash?

The leash is the final confirmation. Once the leash appears, I allow myself to emotionally commit.

That day, I knew I was coming.

But something felt… suspiciously large-scale.

We all got into a huge car with a driver. Me, mommy, daddy, bags, and somehow the crate too. I sat between them while the world rushed by outside the windows.

Then we arrived somewhere unlike anywhere I had ever smelled before.

Let me tell you something about airports:
Outstanding smells.
Absolutely incredible.

Thousands of humans.
Thousands of shoes.
Old crumbs.
Fear.
Coffee.
Perfume.
Mild panic.
One abandoned french fry.

A sensory masterpiece.

At one point, some men took my crate away while mommy and daddy walked beside me telling me I was a good boy in the tone humans use when they are pretending not to worry.

That’s when I realized:
Something weird was about to happen.

Eventually they guided me into the crate and suddenly we were separating.

I squeaked a little. Not dramatically. Just enough to register concern.

Then came many loud noises, strange movements, rolling, lifting, waiting, more rolling, more noises, and an extremely long period of time where absolutely nothing made sense.

At some point the whole world tilted upward.
Later downward.
Then loud again.

Frankly, I decided the best strategy was acceptance.

Eventually the crate started moving again and suddenly — THERE THEY WERE.

Mommy and daddy.

I cannot adequately explain the relief.

I exploded out of that crate emotionally and physically although I tried to remain composed.

They tried to get me to eat and drink and use the potty, but I was simply too overwhelmed to focus on bodily functions.

Then we got into another car — this one just for us — and after a long ride we arrived somewhere quieter.

There were two ladies there.
And another dog.

His name was Rhum.

We sniffed each other thoroughly and professionally. He informed me I was welcome to drink from his water bowl, which I appreciated because suddenly I realized I was incredibly thirsty.

That was the moment I understood:
We were staying here.

Soon I was introduced to what appears to be my new life.

Honestly?
I like it very much.

There are hills everywhere, which is admittedly a little tough on my hips, but the tradeoff is excellent smells.

I have now smelled:

  • olive groves
  • vineyards
  • medieval streets
  • beach air
  • outdoor markets
  • approximately twelve thousand years of accumulated Italian dog pee

Daddy likes to say I am smelling “medieval urine.”

I don’t fully understand what medieval means, but I respect the depth of the scent.

The most shocking part of Italy is this:
I AM ALLOWED EVERYWHERE.

Stores.
Restaurants.
Outdoor cafés.
Little shops with meats and cheeses hanging everywhere like some kind of fever dream.

The humans speak in different words now, although honestly I never understood English either, so this has not been a difficult transition for me.

People here love dogs.

Sometimes they bring me water.
Sometimes treats.
Sometimes they bend down and call me “bravo cane,” which apparently means I am an excellent citizen.

I already knew this.

One of my favorite things is going to restaurants with mommy and daddy. They sit for very long periods of time while I rest under the table like a furry security detail.

The only issue is other dogs.

When another dog walks by, I do feel it is important to announce myself loudly so everyone remains aware of the situation.

This has not always been appreciated.

Still, overall I believe my public behavior has been excellent.

We also visit many piazzas, which seem to be giant outdoor human gathering zones filled with conversations, footsteps, pigeons, espresso, and confusion.

They are exhausting.

I often collapse directly in the middle of traffic flow to recover.

Yesterday, however, was the strangest experience yet.

We arrived somewhere with an alarming number of stairs.

An unreasonable number.
A hostile number.

I was already emotionally preparing myself for the climb when I noticed something horrifying:

The stairs were moving.

I immediately lay down on the ground because clearly this was a terrible idea.

But mommy and daddy reassured me with pets and encouraging voices, which usually means they are about to force me into personal growth.

Daddy gently dragged me onto the moving stairs.

At first I trembled.

Then suddenly I realized something incredible:

THE STAIRS WERE DOING THE WALKING FOR ME.

Honestly?
Revolutionary.

By the second escalator I was uncertain but cooperative.

By the third one I trotted right on like an experienced commuter.

I have changed as a dog.

Mommy later told people this story and her friend Sarah — Chester’s mom — apparently said, “You can teach an old dog new things.”

I was very proud to hear that.

Anyway, I thought it was time I explained what this whole Italy experience has been like from my perspective.

Terrifying.
Confusing.
Beautiful.
Exhausting.
Delicious-smelling.

And honestly?

I’d do it all again tomorrow.

Ok — this is Esterina now.

I want to pause for a moment and say how incredibly lucky we are to be able to bring Koji along on this adventure. And honestly, he’s pretty lucky too.

Koji is a rescue dog from a high-kill shelter in Tennessee. On Friday, May 15th, he turned 12 years old. As a larger dog, we’re starting to see signs of age creeping in a bit, but he is still unbelievably happy, curious, loving, and as healthy as we could hope for.

Because Daren, Koji, and I were fortunate enough to find one another — thanks to my son Tom, who originally petitioned for us to adopt him — I’ve been thinking a lot lately about giving back to other dogs and to the organizations that make stories like this possible.

That bumper sticker that says “Who rescued who?” really is true.

I recently created a small section on my website (Digital Downloads) where I’m sharing collections of digital iPhone wallpapers. Some are favorite older photos from the U.S., and others will be small collections inspired by our time here in Italy.

They’re simple instant downloads that cost just a few dollars, and all proceeds will be donated to the Cosgrove Animal Shelter in Branford, Connecticut.

If you’d like to support the joy, comfort, companionship, and second chances that rescue animals give so freely, feel free to download a photo you love.

Thanks for taking the time to read. I’d love to hear your thoughts!

Please feel free to leave a comment or subscribe for future updates.

10 Weeks and Some Newfound Spontaneity

A bright yellow lemon placed on a wooden table, with a view of greenery and a double door in the background.

Yesterday morning I woke up and decided to make lemon ricotta pancakes using the second-to-last lemon my family from Calabria had sent home with us. Saturday or Sunday morning pancakes have become a nice little ritual for us. There was still a thick fog hanging over the hills outside our patio doors, that was just beginning to burn off under a warm, bright Tuscan sun.

As I was fiddling around in the kitchen, Daren was on his phone telling me about an art festival that had just started in Venice. I asked him to put Venice into the map to see how far from us it was.

“Two hours and fifty minutes,” he replied.

Two hours and fifty minutes?

We both just kind of looked at each other — a little awed, a little excited. We knew we lived close to a lot of great places, and of course we’d looked at the map before, but I don’t think we’d really internalized how close and accessible to us these places were. Venice, one of the most iconic travel destinations in the world was less than a 3 hour drive! Rome is just 2 and a half hours away, and Florence just a half hour. In fact, we realized that nearly all the major destinations in Italy, places that people come from all over the world to see, were a day trip away. Suddenly it felt like we should get out there and see some new things.

So after sitting down to eat these delicious pancakes (a new favorite) we decided to take an impromptu trip toward the Bologna area, only about an hour and a half away by car.

We finished breakfast and hopped in the car: windows down, music up, dog nose out the window. We both felt exhilarated, like we were breaking free of self-imposed constraints. As we were driving down the hill out of our neighborhood we stopped and Daren took this photo. Even as he was taking it he said “the camera doesn’t do it justice”

A panoramic view of lush green hills and valleys under a clear blue sky with scattered clouds.

One of us said something to the effect of, “We really didn’t do much this week,” and then we mentally walked back through the week. What had we done? Do we still need to “do things” in order to feel satisfied? What’s wrong with a slow week focused on more mundane things? Well, here is what a “mundane” week in Italy looked like for us:

Sunday we spent HOURS by the pool talking about how we want to spend the rest of our lives. We don’t have an exact plan yet, and this consulting business feels like a small stepping stone toward something, though we aren’t fully sure what yet.

Monday I went grocery shopping. Before leaving, I typed “art supplies Figline Italy” into Google to see where I might buy a canvas or two. That turned into a much longer outing and a lot more than just a canvas.

The rest of the week disappeared into work, dog walks, a lot of art starts and art projects, and me finally finishing the WordPress site that has basically been an online messy closet since its inception in 2015. I’ll paste the link below. While I did this Daren put in some serious hours on the consultancy work.

We also ordered and received a new coffee foamer this week, along with a Bialetti espresso maker I’ve been thinking about for the past seven months. It was more expensive than I normally like to spend, but its beauty kept calling to me. Doppio macchiatos as a midday break are now a new ritual.

We planned a trip to Umbria to visit friends from our neighborhood. We found a new pizzeria to order from for our Friday night pizza ritural that was ABSOLUTELY POSITIVELY the yummiest pizza we’ve had here for our tastes so far.

But somehow, despite all of that, it still felt like we hadn’t really “done” anything this week.

So we were both got excited and decided to do something spontaneous. Armed with our new realization that all of Italy was laid out before us and not far away, we were on our way out on the road towards Bologna without a clear plan. Not our usual way of doing things, but it felt new, fun, and a bit daring. We had a good laugh as Daren, much more of a structured planner when it comes to travel, struggled to wrap his mind around being spontaneous. Where will we park? What will we see? Do we need reservations for dinner? This time, let’s just see where we end up and figure it out along the way.

We initially started driving toward Parma, but somewhere around the city of Modena I was really thirsty and wanted to stop, so we shifted plans a bit and ended up there instead.

And we proceeded to have the best day!

First Glances at Modena

We stopped for a little bite. We were going to look up “things to do” but it was so pretty and such a lovely day, having a destination seemed crazy. We decided to wander. No Trip Advisor, no Michelin Guide, no ChatGPT travel recommendations. Just a new, unknown city where, it turns out, balsamic vinegar comes from.

We stopped in this gorgeous church. We had to go in one at a time because we had Koji with us. Italy is SOOOO dog friendly, but I think they’d probably draw the line if we brought him inside.

Next we found ourselves at Piazza Grande. It was the International Red Cross Day and there was a large event celebrating in the piazza. The “Croce Rossa Italiana” employees made a fuss over Koji as we walked around. He was only too happy for the attention. In this square we also found a company store featuring balsamic vinegar that had been in production since 1604. We went in for a vinegar tasting. Who knew that vinegar was such “a thing”. I cannot (cannot) believe how delicious these vinegars were. One of them had been aged for 25 years! We left with a large bag and one too many ideas of how to use it!

Some more shopping and browsing. We stumbled upon an excellent food market. We bought some cheeses and tortellini (what the region of Emilia Romano is known for).

Our unplanned wandering found us strolling down cobblestoned streets and under countless porticos (for which this region is known. As we continued along Daren stopped and pointed out the cutest coffee shop. We stopped in for a quick espresso at the counter. We were feeling very Italian. As we’ve come to learn, Italians stop into to cafes like these throughout the day and order espressos which they down quickly while standing at the counter. While there, we met and chatted (in Italian) with one of the Red Cross staff who was taking a break. Check out the year of this coffee shop on the little espresso cup! We love how old and full of history everything is.

The day concluded with a bit more meandering and a stop at the Pavarotti statue. Pavarotti, among the greatest opera tenors ever, is from Modena. Koji was starting to get tired. I think we all were, so we heading back home where we had a lovely sunset appetizer dinner with the cheese we bought, our favorite bread (from Lidl of all places), the vinegars we purchased and the very last of the olives that we brought back from my family’s olive grove in Calabria.

A final dog walk, some showers and a little TV/couch time closed out the evening and the week. Today marks 10 weeks that we have been here.

Meanwhile – check out the cleaned up wordpress site where this and all the other Italy blogs live, along with a lot more stuff. A brief explanation is below.


esterinaanderson.com

Take a look around by clicking the link above that says esterinaanderson.

The site now opens directly to our Italy page, where we’ve organized the writing into our individual perspectives along with our shared travelogue (including posts like this one).

If you explore the other tabs at the top — Reflections, All the Flavor, and the Digital Shop — there’s a lot more tucked in there too.

Here’s a little mock-up below – which isn’t clickable, but shows what you will see when you open the site and what each tab is. Or feel free to wander through the site yourself. It’s finally starting to feel connected, organized, and a little more like home.

Website navigation menu with options for Italy travel experiences, blog reflections, recipes, and a digital shop for smartphone wallpapers.

Thanks for taking the time to read. I’d love to hear your thoughts!

Please feel free to leave a comment or subscribe for future updates.