This was an important week for us. No grand excursions, no Michelangelo, no thousand-year-old walls or frescoes. Instead, we focused on the more mundane, but essential, tasks of daily life: registering our dog, establishing residency, and, perhaps most importantly, finding a local gelato spot.
Some of you may be wondering how we were able to pick up our lives in the U.S. and move to Italy. Were there major bureaucratic hurdles? Was the Italian system difficult to navigate? As of today, Koji and Daren are officially residents of our comune here in Italy (similar to a township or municipality), and Esterina is well on her way to becoming an Italian citizen.
So how did we do it?
As Americans, we can enter countries in the European Union without a visa and stay for up to 90 days within a 180-day period. After that, you must leave what’s known as the Schengen Area—a group of European countries with largely open borders. Staying beyond 90 days without a visa is not permitted. Based on this, we would normally not have been able to contemplate a year or more in Italy without going through the lengthy process of getting a visa before coming here.
Our situation, however, is a bit different. Daren’s brother, Keegan, successfully applied for Irish citizenship several years ago by documenting his Irish ancestry through their grandfather. That eligibility extended to Daren, who followed the same process and obtained an Irish passport. When he left the U.S., he exited using his American passport but entered Europe (via Frankfurt) using his Irish one. As an EU citizen, he now has the right to live and work anywhere in the European Union indefinitely including Italy.
This week, we visited the local comune office in Figline to formally declare residency. Armed with an Irish passport, proof of income, an Italian tax ID (secured before arrival), and a signed lease, we entered the building, took a number and prepared for what we expected would be a long wait. Based on the stories we had heard about Italian bureaucracy, we braced for the worst. Instead, our number was called within five minutes.
The language barrier proved to be the biggest challenge. English is not widely spoken here. But after some effort, an English-speaking clerk stepped in and helped complete the process. The final step was what they call a “police check,” where a local officer visits your home unannounced to confirm that you actually live there. We stayed close to home for several days, not sure what to expect. to our surprise, the officer showed up just three days later, on Friday morning. After confirming our residency, he simply said, “Congratulations, you are Figlinese.”
Esterina’s path is a bit more complex but also progressed this week. She is applying for citizenship under jure sanguinis—“right of blood.” Because her father remained an Italian citizen, she is eligible to be recognized as one as well. With the help of a lawyer, she has gathered extensive documentation—birth certificates, marriage records, and more—to prove her lineage and her father’s uninterrupted citizenship. Her application process is now underway. Once formally submitted, she will be allowed to remain in Italy while it is processed, even if it exceeds the 90-day limit. The timeline is unpredictable, anywhere from a few months to much longer, but we’ve cleared an important hurdle and the police check confirmed her presence at the registered address, so we are now free to travel and are happy to have overcome this important hurdle.
Koji, too, needed to become a resident of Figline. Fortunately, his process was straightforward. Before leaving the U.S., we obtained a required USDA health certificate with help from our local vet, ensured his microchip was in place, and confirmed his rabies vaccination. With these documents, along with our tax IDs and passports, we emailed the regional public health veterinary department and were offered an appointment within two days. At the visit, his chip was scanned, paperwork reviewed, and within ten minutes he was officially registered. He now even has a pet passport, allowing him to travel throughout the EU.
We spent a great deal of time preparing for these processes and expected significant obstacles. So far, however, everything has been surprisingly efficient and manageable.


There were, of course, other administrative tasks, particularly around taxes, that proved far more complicated. Establishing ourselves in the Italian tax system as self-employed “digital nomads” required the help of both an Italian/U.S. accounting firm and an Italian tax lawyer. The short version: all our 2026 income, even what was earned before we moved, is taxable in Italy. While a U.S.-Italy tax treaty prevents double taxation, Italian rates are higher, making our eventual tax bill somewhat uncertain. We won’t have clarity until we file in Italy in September 2027. For now, we are legally set up to live, work, and pay taxes here. Fun indeed.
Amid all this, we’ve also spent more time exploring our new home base of Figline. At first glance, it felt a bit gritty—not exactly Siena or San Gimignano. But it has everything we need: grocery stores, a weekly market, pharmacies, restaurants, and easy access from our apartment just a few miles away.
And over time, it has grown on us.
The “grittiness” seems to be part of the Italian landscape. Public spaces can feel a bit worn, but Figline has a beautiful central piazza, complete with church bells and outdoor cafés, all surrounded by ancient walls. It’s a real Italian town, with very few tourists. We’ve started to settle into daily life here—haircuts, pharmacy runs, casual meals—and it’s beginning to feel familiar.
Last night, the piazza came alive with a Latin Festival—music, food, and drinks from Spain, Mexico, Argentina, Venezuela, and a host of other Latin countries. This was even more exciting than it might sound because in Italy, finding non-Italian food is a bit of a challenge. In many towns, including Figline, it hardly exists at all. Finally, a burrito and a taco! We can’t say that the food was great, but it was something different for a change. And the scene in town was lively and fun. Children were playing in the square. A DJ played Latin music. Italian women spontaneously broke into dance, and it seemed as if the entire town was in the square strolling, dancing, laughing, and enjoying the evening.
And then, to our delight, we discovered an exceptional gelateria right in the piazza—one that had been closed during our previous daytime visits. On a Friday night, it was buzzing, with over 40 flavors on display. There’s even a “doggie cup” for Koji. To our surprise, some of the best gelato we’ve had in Italy is right here in our own town. Chocolate fondant, hazelnut cream, and cream pistachio are our top 3 favorites so far. We’ve already gone twice and fully intend to work our way through the entire menu.


Another truly amazing thing is how amazingly beautiful the spring is here in Tuscany. There are wisteria and wildflowers all over the place. We wish we could share the smell of the Wisteria through this blog. These are some photos from a walk just this afternoon and outside of the piazza last night.









Our apartment has also proven to be a great choice, though finding it was not easy. We spent weeks researching and traveling, deciding between urban vs. rural, north vs. south, coast vs. hills, before settling on Tuscany. It felt like the safe, perhaps even cliché, choice. But the infrastructure is excellent, the location is central, and the presence of both tourists and expats adds a layer of comfort.
Our place is part of a converted stone farmhouse, now divided into about a dozen apartments. Ours spans two floors, with two bedrooms and two bathrooms. It sits on a hilltop with sweeping views of the surrounding countryside. We have a small porch where we can eat outside, a pool with lounge chairs, and beautiful gardens to walk through. With sunny days and temperatures in the high 60s this week, we’ve already spent time reading by the pool and enjoyed our first dinner outdoors.
That said, adjusting to a much smaller kitchen and refrigerator has been a challenge. As two people who enjoy cooking at home, we’re learning to adapt to limited space and fewer appliances, but not without some grumbling.
These are the kinds of details you don’t think about when imagining a move like this. Our trips around Tuscany have been picture-book worthy. But the rolling hills, historic towns, and unforgettable meals are only part of the story. The real experience is built from the everyday: haircuts, paperwork, grocery runs, and evening gelato in the piazza. These are equal parts of the tapestry we are weaving as we build this new life here in Italy.
Some more photos of our place that we are falling in love with more and more each day.












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