I’ve always been fascinated by transportation infrastructure and knowing where things come from, particularly food. The American supermarket is a modern marvel, featuring every imaginable food available all year long. I am amazed at how there can be strawberries and blueberries or fresh lettuce and cherry tomatoes in the middle of the winter. How does a fresh artichoke get to the vegetable section of your grocery store in January? If you look at the label or the price tag sticker, you will see that our food comes from all over the world.
Shopping here in Italy I have continued to nurture my interest in where food comes from. But it has been quite a different experience, at least so far. Nearly everything we buy in the large, modern grocery store in our town is grown or produced in Italy. Nearly all the fish are caught by Italian fisherman in Mediterranean waters. All the fruit and vegetables, with few exceptions, come from Italy. Of course bananas still come from Central and South America, and coffee comes from Asia, African, or South America. But most of the meat and produce that we buy comes from Italy.
And not just Italy, but from a specific region of Italy, often proudly displayed on the package or tag. In fact, some foods have a specific designation, D.O.P., which stands for Denominazione d’Origine Protetta (Protected Designation of Origin), certifying that the product and its ingredients came from a specifically designated region with specific quality standards. Common D.O.P. products include cured meats like Prosciutto di Parma, a wide range of cheeses, Balsamic vinegar, San Marzano tomatoes, and even some arborio rice varietals.
Tracking the source of origin of food in an Italian grocery store is a veritable lesson in Italian geography. Anyone who has watched Stanley Tucci’s “Searching for Italy” series will be well-familiar with the importance of local food traditions and how local climate and soil conditions contribute to the taste and quality of a food product. Grape varietals grown in the area around Modena turn sour much too quickly to support wine making, hence Balsamic vinegar became a signature product from this region in the 1600’s. Volcanic soil on the slopes of Vesuvius produces the perfect flavor and texture for tomatoes used to make sauce (San Marzano). The combination of history, geography, and culture creates a geography lesson that you can literally taste.
The other thing that I’ve enjoyed in Italy is the countryside. We’ve now traveled through about 2/3 of Italy, from Milan in the north to Calabria in the south. One of the most striking things that we’ve noted is the heavy predominance of farming and agriculture in nearly every region we’ve seen. There are some areas with huge farms and fields that stretch to the horizon. But there are also small farms and plots, even right here in our neighborhood. Whether these smaller plots grow produce that ends up in our local market or grocery store I don’t know, but their presence here and across the country contributes to the beauty of the landscape. It also keeps food interesting and varied and avoids some of the uniformity that characterizes American grocery stores. I am sure that products could be sourced from other places and bring cheaper prices and perhaps more steady supply.
I know that the European Union maintains trade policies, agricultural subsidies, and geographic protections that help support farmers and food producers, and that Italy has been a strong advocate for preserving those traditions. And I am certain that this contributes somewhat to higher prices. But that higher price is paying for many things that society values, such as preservation of tradition and culture, freshness, local variety, jobs in agriculture, and regional pride, to name just a few.
I am no expert in farm policy or EU tariffs, but I will say that shopping in Italy is interesting and fun, and the food is in fact fresher, as people often state. This is one stereotype about Italy that has proven to be true.
The contrast between food and manufactured products has been particularly striking. In food, local production, regional identity, and protected designations seem to produce tangible benefits in freshness and quality. In other categories, however, my observations have been more mixed. Before arriving, I associated ‘Made in Italy’ with high-end fashion, sports cars, pottery, and other luxury items. I assumed it was almost synonymous with craftsmanship and quality. Yet many of the everyday consumer products we encounter, from household goods to inexpensive clothing and miscellaneous items sold in markets, are no better, and sometimes worse, than what we would find in the United States.
I don’t know whether this reflects protectionist policies, different consumer preferences, lower purchasing power, or simply the fact that every country produces both exceptional products and mediocre ones. But it has been a useful reminder that a national label is not a guarantee of quality.
After only three months in Italy, I am far from an expert on agricultural policy, trade, or manufacturing. But living here has made me think differently about the relationship between price, quality, and value. In America, we often assume that lower prices are always better. Living in Italy has reminded me that there are other things worth preserving: local agriculture, regional traditions, distinctive foods, beautiful landscapes, and jobs that keep small communities alive.
None of those things are free. They show up in prices, regulations, and consumer choices. Whether the trade-offs are worthwhile is a question reasonable people can debate. But the true value of a product extends beyond the number on the price tag. The cheapest option often carries costs that are simply paid somewhere else, by someone else, or at some later time.
Wheat growning in Umbria for making local pasta and bread
A small farm garden in our neighborhood
Olive Oil from the hills above our town
Olive grove in Calabria
Amalfi lemons
Sheep just down the hill from our house whose milk is used to make the local Pecorino Toscano cheese
Standing at a hospital checkout desk, credit card in hand, can be nerve-wracking. How much will it cost? Is my credit limit sufficient? Will there be more bills later when they calculate the radiologist’s fees or blood tests? Will I need to dip into a home equity line of credit to cover the costs?
But wait — we are in Italy. Maybe healthcare is different here.
We waited in line at the cashier’s desk for about 10 seconds before being called up. A few keystrokes later, we had a bill for $177, paid for with our Visa, and we were on our way.
What, do you suppose, do you get for $177 in an Italian hospital? A glass of orange juice? A CBC?
In Italy, $177 was the total charge for an ambulance ride on a backboard, an emergency room assessment, an X-ray of the lumbar spine, a head CT, an electrocardiogram, and an orthopedic telehealth consultation from the University Hospital in the nearby city of Perugia.
All of these services were provided for Esterina after she slipped on wet pavement in Assisi and fell hard on her sacrum. The fall itself was painful, but the shock, pain, and stress of the event caused her to faint, prompting an ambulance trip to the ER.
You might wonder whether you get what you pay for. Joking aside, in the US this entire event would likely have cost thousands of dollars, some covered by insurance and some not. Would the care have been thousands of dollars better?
The entire experience lasted about four hours. The ambulance took roughly 20 minutes to reach us on streets designed for mules, not advanced life support vehicles. Upon arrival in the ER, Esterina spent about 15 minutes on a stretcher in a hallway before being wheeled into an assessment room where an ER physician sat at a desk asking questions while a nurse relayed them and performed a cursory exam. An ECG was quickly performed and found to be normal. An X-ray of the lumbar spine was ordered. Although we were all certain she had not hit her head, a CT scan was ordered nonetheless for a fall associated with loss of consciousness.
After the consultation, we were back out in the hallway. We waited about 30 minutes for the radiology room to free up, watching several more seriously injured patients appropriately move ahead of us for imaging. Finally, lumbar films were taken, followed shortly afterward by the CT, and once again we returned to the hallway.
We spent much of the next two hours there, staring at a few bad pieces of art on the walls and watching patients, some bleeding, some moaning, some stoic, come and go. Eventually we learned that the CT was normal, but the spine film showed a “cortical irregularity” in the S3-S4 region. In other words, there may have been a small sacral fracture, though the findings were equivocal.
The ER physician was not comfortable discharging her without an orthopedic consultation. The orthopedist was in the operating room, and no one knew when he or she would be available. There was even discussion of transferring her to a larger hospital.
This was a dark moment for both of us.
I try very hard not to “play doctor” when family members are involved. Judgment can be clouded by emotion, and I have not actively practiced clinical medicine in over 10 years. Still, the concern about transfer felt disproportionate to her clinical condition. She had no neurologic findings, minimal pain, and no clear fracture. Rest, movement as tolerated, and some ibuprofen seemed the likely outcome.
Fortunately, soon afterward an orderly came out and explained that the orthopedist had reviewed the films remotely, spoken with the ER physician, and cleared her for discharge. Ibuprofen as needed. Nothing further.
Ten minutes later we were at the cashier, Visa in hand, and a few minutes after that we were on our way back to our hotel.
Once the trauma, fear, and emotion of the event settled, we had ample time to reflect on our healthcare experience in Italy and to compare it with our own system back home. All in all, the right things were done. The ECG and CT scan made sense. The diagnosis was appropriate, and she was triaged correctly from the start. Getting an orthopedic consultation for a marginal finding may have been somewhat excessive, but it happened quickly enough that the reassurance was probably worthwhile.
In Italy, we got the basics, without the frills. The hospital has no shareholders and earns no profit from our visit or anyone else’s. There was no prior authorization process and no insurance intermediary standing between patient and physician. The radiologist, ER doctor, and orthopedist earn far less than their American counterparts. Yet we still received the essential components of appropriate emergency care, and the outcome was entirely appropriate.
So what might more money have bought?
Better artwork on the walls, certainly. Better bedside manner as well. The physician never actually spoke directly with us, and the nurses and orderlies, while professional, were fairly scarce and often brusque when relaying information. More money might have purchased a more thorough exam. I was somewhat surprised that Esterina was never placed in a hospital gown or given a complete physical examination. She remained in her street clothes and sneakers the entire time — admittedly making it easier to get up and leave.
More money also might have bought a blanket. Throughout the experience Esterina was cold. I covered her with both of our coats along with a thin hospital sheet that I had to request. Perhaps more money would have bought us a curtained exam room like those seen on The Pitt instead of a dingy hallway.
It also could have purchased better facilities and groundskeeping. Many of the hospitals we have seen in Italy, including this one, feel austere and physically underinvested, more functional than welcoming. Tall grass and weeds surround institutional-looking concrete buildings that appear to receive little attention beyond what is necessary to keep them operational.
The biggest thing we did not receive, however, was kindness or reassurance. Everyone was professional, but there was very little warmth. No smiles. No expressions of concern. No one paid much attention to Esterina’s non-life-threatening symptoms or comfort. She was nauseated, dizzy, cold and scared. No one asked. No one checked.
Still, it is important to remember that we were technically uninsured in Italy, even though we carry international coverage that will reimburse us for the charges. An Italian citizen likely would not have paid anything at all for the same care. In the United States, an uninsured person experiencing a similar event could easily face thousands of dollars in bills unless they were fortunate enough to qualify for charity care, Medicaid, or other assistance programs.
How much are all these “extras” worth? Are they worth having 5–20% of the population uninsured? Are they worth a system that can leave people financially devastated by illness or accident? Are they worth the inequities that still define so much of American healthcare?
Personally, I do not believe we should have to choose between humane affordability and humane care. Italian healthcare could use more warmth, comfort, and investment. American healthcare could use far less profiteering and inequity.
Most surprising of all, however, we have not received a single call or card from an injury attorney. And I have not seen a single billboard advertising one anywhere in Umbria.
Back to travel, back to Italian food, and back to health!
A dingy hospital in South Italy (not the one we were in in Assisi)
After yet another terrifying, then exhilarating experience yesterday, I believe it’s finally time I tell you what this whole Italy thing has been like from my point of view.
First of all — this is Koji.
Most of you probably know me already, but if not, my mommy and daddy are Esterina and Daren. Mommy is helping me write this because, despite my many talents, typing is apparently beyond my skill set.
It all started with the crate.
I hadn’t seen a crate since I was a tiny puppy. Back then I actually liked it. One day it disappeared, which I assumed meant I had proven myself trustworthy enough not to destroy the house while nobody was home.
Then suddenly, eleven years later, a giant crate appeared in the living room.
This one was sturdier. More serious.
Naturally, I climbed right in because I remembered the assignment. Also, every time I went inside, treats appeared. Sometimes daddy closed the door and left me in there for a while. Honestly? Not bad. Cozy enough. The crate sat next to my dog bed for weeks, so eventually I stopped questioning it.
Then one day the house became chaos.
Suitcases. Humans moving quickly. Doors opening and closing. Stress smells.
And then somehow the crate came too.
I knew we were going on an adventure because suitcases always mean somebody disappears for a while. The trick is figuring out whether I’m included. I watch carefully for clues:
Is my food being packed?
Is my travel bed involved?
Has someone picked up my leash?
The leash is the final confirmation. Once the leash appears, I allow myself to emotionally commit.
That day, I knew I was coming.
But something felt… suspiciously large-scale.
We all got into a huge car with a driver. Me, mommy, daddy, bags, and somehow the crate too. I sat between them while the world rushed by outside the windows.
Then we arrived somewhere unlike anywhere I had ever smelled before.
Let me tell you something about airports: Outstanding smells. Absolutely incredible.
Thousands of humans. Thousands of shoes. Old crumbs. Fear. Coffee. Perfume. Mild panic. One abandoned french fry.
A sensory masterpiece.
At one point, some men took my crate away while mommy and daddy walked beside me telling me I was a good boy in the tone humans use when they are pretending not to worry.
That’s when I realized: Something weird was about to happen.
Eventually they guided me into the crate and suddenly we were separating.
I squeaked a little. Not dramatically. Just enough to register concern.
Then came many loud noises, strange movements, rolling, lifting, waiting, more rolling, more noises, and an extremely long period of time where absolutely nothing made sense.
At some point the whole world tilted upward. Later downward. Then loud again.
Frankly, I decided the best strategy was acceptance.
Eventually the crate started moving again and suddenly — THERE THEY WERE.
Mommy and daddy.
I cannot adequately explain the relief.
I exploded out of that crate emotionally and physically although I tried to remain composed.
They tried to get me to eat and drink and use the potty, but I was simply too overwhelmed to focus on bodily functions.
Then we got into another car — this one just for us — and after a long ride we arrived somewhere quieter.
There were two ladies there. And another dog.
His name was Rhum.
We sniffed each other thoroughly and professionally. He informed me I was welcome to drink from his water bowl, which I appreciated because suddenly I realized I was incredibly thirsty.
That was the moment I understood: We were staying here.
Soon I was introduced to what appears to be my new life.
Honestly? I like it very much.
There are hills everywhere, which is admittedly a little tough on my hips, but the tradeoff is excellent smells.
I have now smelled:
olive groves
vineyards
medieval streets
beach air
outdoor markets
approximately twelve thousand years of accumulated Italian dog pee
Daddy likes to say I am smelling “medieval urine.”
I don’t fully understand what medieval means, but I respect the depth of the scent.
The most shocking part of Italy is this: I AM ALLOWED EVERYWHERE.
Stores. Restaurants. Outdoor cafés. Little shops with meats and cheeses hanging everywhere like some kind of fever dream.
The humans speak in different words now, although honestly I never understood English either, so this has not been a difficult transition for me.
People here love dogs.
Sometimes they bring me water. Sometimes treats. Sometimes they bend down and call me “bravo cane,” which apparently means I am an excellent citizen.
I already knew this.
One of my favorite things is going to restaurants with mommy and daddy. They sit for very long periods of time while I rest under the table like a furry security detail.
The only issue is other dogs.
When another dog walks by, I do feel it is important to announce myself loudly so everyone remains aware of the situation.
This has not always been appreciated.
Still, overall I believe my public behavior has been excellent.
We also visit many piazzas, which seem to be giant outdoor human gathering zones filled with conversations, footsteps, pigeons, espresso, and confusion.
They are exhausting.
I often collapse directly in the middle of traffic flow to recover.
Duomo in FlorenceDipping paw for first time in the MedMarketsAn actual china shop!GelatoMore gelato (dog specific!)What dog heaven is like
Yesterday, however, was the strangest experience yet.
We arrived somewhere with an alarming number of stairs.
An unreasonable number. A hostile number.
I was already emotionally preparing myself for the climb when I noticed something horrifying:
The stairs were moving.
I immediately lay down on the ground because clearly this was a terrible idea.
But mommy and daddy reassured me with pets and encouraging voices, which usually means they are about to force me into personal growth.
Daddy gently dragged me onto the moving stairs.
At first I trembled.
Then suddenly I realized something incredible:
THE STAIRS WERE DOING THE WALKING FOR ME.
Honestly? Revolutionary.
By the second escalator I was uncertain but cooperative.
By the third one I trotted right on like an experienced commuter.
I have changed as a dog.
Mommy later told people this story and her friend Sarah — Chester’s mom — apparently said, “You can teach an old dog new things.”
I was very proud to hear that.
Anyway, I thought it was time I explained what this whole Italy experience has been like from my perspective.
I want to pause for a moment and say how incredibly lucky we are to be able to bring Koji along on this adventure. And honestly, he’s pretty lucky too.
Koji is a rescue dog from a high-kill shelter in Tennessee. On Friday, May 15th, he turned 12 years old. As a larger dog, we’re starting to see signs of age creeping in a bit, but he is still unbelievably happy, curious, loving, and as healthy as we could hope for.
Because Daren, Koji, and I were fortunate enough to find one another — thanks to my son Tom, who originally petitioned for us to adopt him — I’ve been thinking a lot lately about giving back to other dogs and to the organizations that make stories like this possible.
That bumper sticker that says “Who rescued who?” really is true.
I recently created a small section on my website (Digital Downloads)where I’m sharing collections of digital iPhone wallpapers. Some are favorite older photos from the U.S., and others will be small collections inspired by our time here in Italy.
They’re simple instant downloads that cost just a few dollars, and all proceeds will be donated to the Cosgrove Animal Shelter in Branford, Connecticut.
If you’d like to support the joy, comfort, companionship, and second chances that rescue animals give so freely, feel free to download a photo you love.
Yesterday morning I woke up and decided to make lemon ricotta pancakes using the second-to-last lemon my family from Calabria had sent home with us. Saturday or Sunday morning pancakes have become a nice little ritual for us. There was still a thick fog hanging over the hills outside our patio doors, that was just beginning to burn off under a warm, bright Tuscan sun.
As I was fiddling around in the kitchen, Daren was on his phone telling me about an art festival that had just started in Venice. I asked him to put Venice into the map to see how far from us it was.
“Two hours and fifty minutes,” he replied.
Two hours and fifty minutes?
We both just kind of looked at each other — a little awed, a little excited. We knew we lived close to a lot of great places, and of course we’d looked at the map before, but I don’t think we’d really internalized how close and accessible to us these places were. Venice, one of the most iconic travel destinations in the world was less than a 3 hour drive! Rome is just 2 and a half hours away, and Florence just a half hour. In fact, we realized that nearly all the major destinations in Italy, places that people come from all over the world to see, were a day trip away. Suddenly it felt like we should get out there and see some new things.
So after sitting down to eat these delicious pancakes (a new favorite) we decided to take an impromptu trip toward the Bologna area, only about an hour and a half away by car.
We finished breakfast and hopped in the car: windows down, music up, dog nose out the window. We both felt exhilarated, like we were breaking free of self-imposed constraints. As we were driving down the hill out of our neighborhood we stopped and Daren took this photo. Even as he was taking it he said “the camera doesn’t do it justice”
One of us said something to the effect of, “We really didn’t do much this week,” and then we mentally walked back through the week. What had we done? Do we still need to “do things” in order to feel satisfied? What’s wrong with a slow week focused on more mundane things? Well, here is what a “mundane” week in Italy looked like for us:
Sunday we spent HOURS by the pool talking about how we want to spend the rest of our lives. We don’t have an exact plan yet, and this consulting business feels like a small stepping stone toward something, though we aren’t fully sure what yet.
Monday I went grocery shopping. Before leaving, I typed “art supplies Figline Italy” into Google to see where I might buy a canvas or two. That turned into a much longer outing and a lot more than just a canvas.
The rest of the week disappeared into work, dog walks, a lot of art starts and art projects, and me finally finishing the WordPress site that has basically been an online messy closet since its inception in 2015. I’ll paste the link below. While I did this Daren put in some serious hours on the consultancy work.
We also ordered and received a new coffee foamer this week, along with a Bialetti espresso maker I’ve been thinking about for the past seven months. It was more expensive than I normally like to spend, but its beauty kept calling to me. Doppio macchiatos as a midday break are now a new ritual.
We planned a trip to Umbria to visit friends from our neighborhood. We found a new pizzeria to order from for our Friday night pizza ritural that was ABSOLUTELY POSITIVELY the yummiest pizza we’ve had here for our tastes so far.
But somehow, despite all of that, it still felt like we hadn’t really “done” anything this week.
So we were both got excited and decided to do something spontaneous. Armed with our new realization that all of Italy was laid out before us and not far away, we were on our way out on the road towards Bologna without a clear plan. Not our usual way of doing things, but it felt new, fun, and a bit daring. We had a good laugh as Daren, much more of a structured planner when it comes to travel, struggled to wrap his mind around being spontaneous. Where will we park? What will we see? Do we need reservations for dinner? This time, let’s just see where we end up and figure it out along the way.
We initially started driving toward Parma, but somewhere around the city of Modena I was really thirsty and wanted to stop, so we shifted plans a bit and ended up there instead.
And we proceeded to have the best day!
Only in Italy – a vending machine for cafeOur first glance (and sniff) of Modena Just arriving
First Glances at Modena
We stopped for a little bite. We were going to look up “things to do” but it was so pretty and such a lovely day, having a destination seemed crazy. We decided to wander. No Trip Advisor, no Michelin Guide, no ChatGPT travel recommendations. Just a new, unknown city where, it turns out, balsamic vinegar comes from.
We stopped in this gorgeous church. We had to go in one at a time because we had Koji with us. Italy is SOOOO dog friendly, but I think they’d probably draw the line if we brought him inside.
Next we found ourselves at Piazza Grande. It was the International Red Cross Day and there was a large event celebrating in the piazza. The “Croce Rossa Italiana” employees made a fuss over Koji as we walked around. He was only too happy for the attention. In this square we also found a company store featuring balsamic vinegar that had been in production since 1604. We went in for a vinegar tasting. Who knew that vinegar was such “a thing”. I cannot (cannot) believe how delicious these vinegars were. One of them had been aged for 25 years! We left with a large bag and one too many ideas of how to use it!
Some more shopping and browsing. We stumbled upon an excellent food market. We bought some cheeses and tortellini (what the region of Emilia Romano is known for).
Our unplanned wandering found us strolling down cobblestoned streets and under countless porticos (for which this region is known. As we continued along Daren stopped and pointed out the cutest coffee shop. We stopped in for a quick espresso at the counter. We were feeling very Italian. As we’ve come to learn, Italians stop into to cafes like these throughout the day and order espressos which they down quickly while standing at the counter. While there, we met and chatted (in Italian) with one of the Red Cross staff who was taking a break. Check out the year of this coffee shop on the little espresso cup! We love how old and full of history everything is.
The day concluded with a bit more meandering and a stop at the Pavarotti statue. Pavarotti, among the greatest opera tenors ever, is from Modena. Koji was starting to get tired. I think we all were, so we heading back home where we had a lovely sunset appetizer dinner with the cheese we bought, our favorite bread (from Lidl of all places), the vinegars we purchased and the very last of the olives that we brought back from my family’s olive grove in Calabria.
A final dog walk, some showers and a little TV/couch time closed out the evening and the week. Today marks 10 weeks that we have been here.
Meanwhile – check out the cleaned up wordpress site where this and all the other Italy blogs live, along with a lot more stuff. A brief explanation is below.
Take a look around by clicking the link above that says esterinaanderson.
The site now opens directly to our Italy page, where we’ve organized the writing into our individual perspectives along with our shared travelogue (including posts like this one).
If you explore the other tabs at the top — Reflections, All the Flavor, and the Digital Shop — there’s a lot more tucked in there too.
Here’s a little mock-up below – which isn’t clickable, but shows what you will see when you open the site and what each tab is. Or feel free to wander through the site yourself. It’s finally starting to feel connected, organized, and a little more like home.
Thanks for taking the time to read. I’d love to hear your thoughts!
Please feel free to leave a comment or subscribe for future updates.
We’ve just returned from a two-week swing through southern Italy and have plenty of reflections to share. Our itinerary included some of the country’s most iconic destinations—Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast—as well as lesser-known areas in Calabria, including Tropea and the region around Crotone.
We knew there was a North/South divide in Italy before this trip—but only because we had started looking into it when we were planning our move. Before that, it really wasn’t something we understood or thought much about, despite having been here, watching movies about Italy, and knowing plenty of people with Italian roots. What we didn’t realize is that it’s not exactly something people talk about openly here.
It seems to fall into that category of topics that carry some weight. Not necessarily hidden, but not casually discussed either. And that makes sense, given how much history—and reality—is tied up in it. At the same time, if we didn’t really understand it until recently, we’re guessing a lot of our family and friends don’t either. So we’re going to share what we’re learning!
Part of the reason this divide isn’t widely understood—especially from an American perspective—is because, from the outside, Italy is presented as one cohesive, romantic place. And if you’re just visiting, that’s how it feels. Most trips hit the same highlights—Rome, Florence, Venice, the Amalfi Coast. They’re all beautiful, welcoming, and very used to tourists. It ends up feeling like one seamless experience rather than a collection of very different regions. The deeper differences—economic, cultural, even linguistic—aren’t obvious on a short trip.
Then there’s the version of “Italian culture” many of us grew up with in the U.S., which was largely shaped by Southern Italian immigrants. Over time, that became its own blended identity—food, language, energy, traditions—and it’s easy to assume that’s what all of Italy feels like.
But it’s not that simple. The divide here isn’t dramatic or immediately visible. You can be in both the north and the south and still see stunning towns, have incredible food, and enjoy everyday Italian life. The differences show up more subtly—in how things function, in opportunities, in infrastructure, and in the pace and tone of daily life.
A lot of this traces back to history that most of us were never really taught. Italy only became a unified country in 1861. Before that, it was a collection of separate regions, and they didn’t all develop in the same way. The north industrialized more quickly, while the south faced longer-term economic challenges.
We also tend to generalize countries a bit. We’re used to thinking in big terms. But Italy is incredibly regional—it’s almost like visiting very different parts of the U.S. and calling it all the same experience.
Before we made the move to Italy, we watched a documentary on Italian immigration patterns. It wasn’t until then that we realized that almost all the Italians we knew in the U.S. just happened to have roots from the Naples area, Sicily, and Calabria. It always felt like a coincidence—one of those things you hardly notice so never question. But it’s not a coincidence at all.
We learned the earliest large waves of Italian emigration began in the late 1800s—roughly the 1870s through the early 1900s. At that time, many of the immigrants leaving Italy were from the northern regions, like Piedmont, Veneto, and Lombardy. Many went to South America, particularly Argentina and Brazil, where there was a strong demand for labor and a culture that, in many ways, felt more familiar. But over time the trend changed.
Northern Italy started to industrialize and become more economically stable, while the southern regions—areas like Campania (Naples), Calabria, and Sicily—faced deeper, more systemic poverty and fewer opportunities.
By the late 1800s into the early 1900s, it was southern Italians who began leaving in large numbers. Many still went to South America—again to places like Argentina, Brazil, and Uruguay—but by then those regions were becoming saturated with immigrants. Again the migration patterns changed.
This is when large numbers of Italians began immigrating to North America, particularly between about 1880 and 1920. They came to cities like New York, Boston, Philadelphia, and Chicago, settling into tight-knit communities that many of us still recognize today.
However, unlike earlier migrations, they weren’t always welcomed. Southern Italians, in particular, faced significant discrimination and had to work incredibly hard, often in difficult conditions, to build a life here. Over time, though, they did what immigrants always do—built communities, held onto their traditions, adapted where they needed to, and slowly became part of the fabric of the country.
And so, somewhere along the way, that became the version of “Italian” that many of us grew up with. The food, the energy, the family dynamics—the pizza, the pasta, the loud kitchens and big tables. It’s such a strong and beautiful culture. But it’s also just one part of a much bigger, more complex story.
When you step back and look at Italy overall, you can start to see how all of this may have shaped the divide that still exists today. Entire generations left the south in search of opportunity, while the north continued to industrialize and build wealth. Over time, that created two very different realities within the same country—something that doesn’t just disappear, even after more than a century.
This divide is rooted in history, geography, and economics. Exploring it could easily fill its own blog post, but it’s worth noting that southern Italy is generally less affluent, less developed, and less urbanized than the north, with distinct cultural differences.
What it may lack in infrastructure, however, it more than makes up for—with dramatic scenery, stunning coastlines, rugged mountains, exceptional food, and deep historical roots… most of which we’re only just beginning to explore.
So enough on this history lesson & let us tell you about our trip!
Southern Italy
Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast
Our trip began in Sorrento, often considered the gateway to the Amalfi Coast. Perched on a peninsula just south of Naples, Sorrento sits in the shadow of Mount Vesuvius, whose looming presence feels especially ominous if you’re familiar with the story of Pompeii.
Reaching Sorrento involves driving through Naples and then through a series of long tunnels cut through the mountains. Our first impression wasn’t especially favorable: heavy traffic, tight roads, and a seemingly endless swarm of scooters operating by their own unwritten rules. They zipped past us on both sides—even crossing into oncoming traffic on narrow two-lane roads—creating a constant, buzzing chaos that made the drive more stressful than scenic.
After one night in a disappointing rental, we relocated to a comfortable hotel just outside of town. Over the next few days, our impressions improved. We found spots to take in the stunning clifftop views over the Bay of Naples and toward the island of Ischia, enjoyed a few excellent meals, and spent time relaxing by the pool.
Sorrento itself is undeniably touristy. Even in mid-April, the streets were crowded with tour groups, and the narrow shopping lanes were often packed.
One unmistakable theme of the region is lemons. They are everywhere—growing in groves tucked into backyards and terraced along steep hillsides. Many trees are covered with wooden frames and green netting to protect them from the elements. In town, lemon motifs appear on everything from clothing to ceramics to linens. And Esterina just had to buy a pair of lemon pants that she is wearing every few days now.
We took two successive day trips to the Amalfi coast starting with Positano, the first major town on the Amalfi Coast when traveling west to east. The drive alone was unforgettable: narrow, winding roads climbing over mountains before descending toward the sea, with breathtaking views at every turn.
Positano itself is a nearly vertical town cascading down toward the water. It’s undeniably beautiful, though heavily touristed. Still, it charmed us. We had one of the best meals of the trip there—gnocchi and fresh local fish—while Koji rested contentedly under the table. Linen clothing is practically a uniform in the Amalfi towns, and I (Daren) couldn’t resist adding a few pieces to my summer wardrobe.
The beaches here are dark and rocky, shaped by the region’s volcanic origins. Even in April, people were sunbathing and swimming. Koji braved a quick dip; we, lacking swimsuits, did not.
On a second day we came back to see the town of Amalfi itself. While undeniably picturesque from a distance, we found the town smaller, more crowded, and less appealing than Positano. Its narrow spaces felt more congested and shaded, and the density of tourists diminished its charm. In contrast, the journey along the coast—with its dramatic cliffs and buildings perched impossibly above the sea—was the true highlight.
On the way back, we stopped in Maiori, just a few miles away but worlds apart in atmosphere. With a long beach, a relaxed promenade, and far fewer tourists, it felt more authentic. After a leisurely seafood lunch, we spent an hour simply lying on the beach, listening to the waves.
Overall, we left the Amalfi region with mixed feelings. The scenery is undeniably spectacular, but even in shoulder season, the crowds, traffic, and overtourism detract from the experience. It’s hard to imagine what peak summer must be like.
A highlight of our trip was a guided visit to Pompeii which sits between Naples and Sorrento and was easily reached by a ½ hour ride on the regional commuter rail line. With an archaeologist as our guide, the ancient city came vividly to life. Though roofs have largely collapsed under volcanic debris, the layout of streets, buildings, and public spaces remains remarkably intact. We were especially fascinated by the bathhouses, with their distinct hot, warm, and cold rooms, as well as the preserved mosaics and roadways. Our guide’s insights into language—particularly the connection between Latin and modern languages—added an extra layer of interest.
Calabria: Tropea and Beyond
After five days in Sorrento, we headed south to Calabria. The drive itself was a highlight, passing through rolling farmland, green hills, and fields dotted with wildflowers. As we moved farther south, the landscape became more rugged and developed.
Our destination was Tropea, often called the “jewel of Calabria.” Perched atop cliffs overlooking a striking white sand beach, it’s easy to see why. There, we met Esterina’s brother Frank and his girlfriend Mary, who joined us after spending several days in Rome.
Tropea is small but charming, with lots of nice restaurants and a relaxed pace. While still a tourist destination, it felt far more local, with relatively few international visitors. It was beautiful, but a bit rough around the edges. We spent our time enjoying seafood, relaxing on the beach, staying active, and learning about the region’s famous red onions—renowned across Italy for their sweetness and featured prominently in local cuisine.
Family in Crotone
Our final stop was with family in and around Rocca di Neto, near Crotone. As on previous visits, we were welcomed warmly and treated to incredible food and conversation. It was also our best opportunity yet to practice Italian, as few family members speak English.
This visit held special significance: Esterina and Frank brought their father’s remains to be placed in the family mausoleum alongside previous generations.
We spent a day exploring Crotone’s old town and its quiet seaside promenade before gathering for one last family dinner. Crotone, like Tropea, was a mix of historic charm and grittiness. The next morning, we began the long drive back north to Tuscany.
Final Reflections Each place we visited had something to offer—and something that didn’t quite land. Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast are undeniably stunning, but also incredibly crowded. Tropea’s beaches are beautiful, but the town itself felt a bit worn, with visible garbage and public spaces that seem overlooked.
But what stayed with us most was the time we spent with family. It was a simple reminder that keeps coming back to us—where you are matters, but who you’re with matters more. And in the end, that’s the part we’ll remember.
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Long before our move to Italy, we had planned a trip to Rocca di Neto for April of 2026. I turned 50 in February and wanted to go to Italy to see where my father grew up and connect with my relatives. At the time, I was even hoping my father would be able to come too.
My father hadn’t been back to Italy in about 20 years. For his 70th birthday, my brother Mario and I helped him renew his green card so he could get his passport and travel again. This April would have been the perfect time.
Running in the background of all of this since 2018 was my effort to obtain Italian citizenship.
I had worked with a lawyer for a few years who suggested that the fastest path might be to move to Italy temporarily and apply from here. At the time, that didn’t feel realistic. We had kids still in school and jobs that wouldn’t allow for that kind of move. Who has the luxury of just packing up and heading to Italy “for a while”?
So I gathered all the paperwork and began the process through the Italian consulate in the United States. Because we live in Connecticut, that meant going through the New York City consulate. The wait time for an appointment there is several years long. After years of gathering and translating the correct documents, I added my name to the list in June of 2022 and still haven’t received an appointment.
Then last year, everything shifted in ways we couldn’t imagine.
I unexpectedly retired. Not long after, my father passed away in August. The months surrounding that were a whirlwind of family chaos and change. Daren was still working full time, but we started talking about what we really wanted next.
We both wanted to keep working—but in a way that allowed for more flexibility, less stress, and more control over our time.
And suddenly, moving to Italy for a year didn’t feel unrealistic anymore. It felt right.
After my father passed, the three of us—his children—made the decision that Pops would still go to Rocca in April. We cleared it with the family in Italy, who thought it was a great idea. This week, we carried that plan out.
Before moving to Italy, we had even considered settling in Calabria to be closer to family. We visited the area last October. I had met many of my relatives before in the United States when they visited.
When we arrived last fall, we were welcomed at the small airport in Crotone by my uncle and two aunts. The airport is so small they were practically at the gate. Even though it had been many years since we had seen one another, we all recognized each other right away.
And then came the welcome.
It was like the movies—one long table, full of food, constant conversation, introductions, laughter. We spent a few days with them, fully immersed in it all.
For me, it truly felt like home.
I lost my mom when she was 49, and my dad last summer. For the past 15 years or so, my father didn’t really have a place of his own, so “going home” meant going to newer places that were fine, but didn’t have a deep connection to me.
But in Italy—even having not been there since I was very little—it felt familiar.
My relatives’ homes were decorated the same way my parents decorated. The same types of frames, candy dishes, the same overall feel and aesthetic.
My uncle Joe and his wife even had the same dishes my parents had. My aunt said it was because she and my mom bought them at the same time.
My aunt Sarah’s food tastes just like my mom’s did. It’s uncanny—especially the rabbit sauce. When I told her this, she said it was because her mom (my grandmother, and my mom’s mother-in-law) taught them both how to make it.
We don’t know each other well, but my cousins—especially the men—have the same mannerisms as my father and brothers. The same humor, the same playful energy. They laugh and carry on with the same joy we had when my father was alive.
The language barrier was there, but it was also strangely fun to navigate. We made it work.
When we visited last fall, we seriously considered moving closer to them.
There are real benefits. It’s much easier to practice Italian when people are patient and willing to wait while you find the words or look them up. Learning feels more natural that way.
But Calabria is far south and not close to major international travel routes. With four adult children and family back home, we felt more at ease staying connected and accessible. Being that far away made us feel just a little too vulnerable.
And even though we didn’t move here, we are driving away, having carried out the plan to bring Pops back to his hometown on Rocca.
Thursday we packed into few cars and made the short trip up the road to local town cemetery where the family has a mausoleum. We placed my father’s ashes amongst the other relatives that have passed alongside his parents (my grandparents).
My brother Frankie and his partner Mary were with us this time, and Daren and I took immense joy in seeing how quickly they were welcomed and made to feel at home—that they were with family.
It was special to see the experience we had before through their eyes, and to be back in it ourselves—this time understanding just a little bit more of the rhythm and the sounds around us.
Calabria feels like home. Not because I had been there before—but because so much of it already lived in me. The way people gather, the way meals are shared, the way homes are filled with the same small details I grew up with.
It made me realize that home isn’t always a place you return to. Sometimes it’s something that travels quietly through generations—carried in traditions, in mannerisms, in the way people connect with each other.
Being with people I barely know, in a place I had never lived, somehow—and truly—feels like home. It All Clicks.
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I can’t believe it, but today marks 7 weeks in Italy. It feels longer than that, but also shorter than that!
There’s something that has been building for a long time, but being here has finally brought it into focus.
When choosing destinations or lodging, we’ve been fooled by photos more times than I can count. Places that look beautiful online—carefully staged, thoughtfully cropped, filtered just right—often don’t match the experience of being there. Once you’re at a location, you can picture where the photographer stood and what was intentionally left out, and even why.
The reviews have been just as confusing. I’ve struggled to understand how so many places end up with five stars when my experience would be nowhere near that. It’s made travel harder than I expected. At least one in every three places has been a real disappointment, and it’s not just accommodations—it’s entire locations. People we know and trust say a place is beautiful, blogs rave about it, and then we arrive and it just doesn’t land the same way.
Daren and I have been traveling together as a couple for 16 years now, since crowd-sourced reviews first became popular. We were early adopters, but over time it’s become clear that something doesn’t quite translate.
Italy has brought this into even sharper focus for me. Before we started looking seriously for a place to live here, my experience of Italy was limited to places like Milan, Venice, Lake Como, and Siena. In my mind, everything was beautiful, everyone spoke English, and the food was always incredible.
Last fall, when we came back to explore more deeply, that image started to shift. Italy isn’t a postcard. It’s where people live. It’s normal in the way any place is normal. There are stores, trash, things that are broken. Some people take care of their surroundings beautifully, others don’t. There are pockets that are stunning, and long stretches that are just average. It felt surprisingly familiar.
We chose Tuscany for practical reasons, mainly access to Florence and Rome if we needed to get home quickly. And it has been wonderful. When we visit places like San Gimignano, Lucca, Portofino, Chianti, or Pienza, they are every bit as beautiful as the photos suggest.
But they are also just one version of reality.
Right now, we’re staying outside of Sorrento, and it’s been a very different experience. Sorrento itself is a step up, but only slightly. Pompeii felt chaotic and overwhelming. Even parts of the Amalfi Coast, which people rave about, felt more worn than I expected.
And yet, I can still take a beautiful photo almost anywhere. I might be able to find the right angle, the right light, the right frame. I can create something that looks magical, even when the broader surroundings aren’t.
Someone commented on Facebook recently that they never thought Italy was beautiful until they saw my pictures, and that really stayed with me.
It made me realize that beauty isn’t just about what’s there—it’s also about what we notice and how we frame it. That’s where crowd-sourcing starts to fall apart. We all have different baselines. Where we live, what we’re used to, and what we value shape how we experience a place.
Back home, we live in a shoreline town with both beautiful and less appealing areas. Our neighborhood happens to be one of the nicer ones, and we take pride in keeping our home clean and comfortable. So when I see a five-star rating, that’s what I’m expecting. But I can see now that not everyone is measuring against the same standard.
Lately, I’ve started taking different kinds of photos. Not just the beautiful ones, but the honest ones too—the train stations, the trash, the lemon groves covered in worn green mesh along the highway. Not to be negative, but to capture a fuller picture of what we’re actually seeing.
TrafficBored ppl on their phones in crowdsConstruction everywhereWhat 9 out of 10 Pasticceria’s really look likeLook close – a baby drinking beer & this “sailor” always at the door here
Where I’ve landed with all of this is pretty simple. The world is beautiful, but not always in the way we expect. It isn’t constant, and it isn’t evenly distributed, but it is there. Sometimes it’s obvious, and sometimes you have to look a little harder for it.
This experience hasn’t made me appreciate Italy any less. If anything, it’s made me appreciate it more. Seeing it as a real place—not just an ideal—has made it feel more honest and more human.
And maybe that’s the point. Not to chase perfect beauty, but to learn how to recognize it wherever you are.
There is beauty everywhere in Italy. But the truth is, there is beauty everywhere when you look for it—even in a flowering weed growing up through the rubble.
This was an important week for us. No grand excursions, no Michelangelo, no thousand-year-old walls or frescoes. Instead, we focused on the more mundane, but essential, tasks of daily life: registering our dog, establishing residency, and, perhaps most importantly, finding a local gelato spot.
Some of you may be wondering how we were able to pick up our lives in the U.S. and move to Italy. Were there major bureaucratic hurdles? Was the Italian system difficult to navigate? As of today, Koji and Daren are officially residents of our comune here in Italy (similar to a township or municipality), and Esterina is well on her way to becoming an Italian citizen.
So how did we do it?
As Americans, we can enter countries in the European Union without a visa and stay for up to 90 days within a 180-day period. After that, you must leave what’s known as the Schengen Area—a group of European countries with largely open borders. Staying beyond 90 days without a visa is not permitted. Based on this, we would normally not have been able to contemplate a year or more in Italy without going through the lengthy process of getting a visa before coming here.
Our situation, however, is a bit different. Daren’s brother, Keegan, successfully applied for Irish citizenship several years ago by documenting his Irish ancestry through their grandfather. That eligibility extended to Daren, who followed the same process and obtained an Irish passport. When he left the U.S., he exited using his American passport but entered Europe (via Frankfurt) using his Irish one. As an EU citizen, he now has the right to live and work anywhere in the European Union indefinitely including Italy.
This week, we visited the local comune office in Figline to formally declare residency. Armed with an Irish passport, proof of income, an Italian tax ID (secured before arrival), and a signed lease, we entered the building, took a number and prepared for what we expected would be a long wait. Based on the stories we had heard about Italian bureaucracy, we braced for the worst. Instead, our number was called within five minutes.
The language barrier proved to be the biggest challenge. English is not widely spoken here. But after some effort, an English-speaking clerk stepped in and helped complete the process. The final step was what they call a “police check,” where a local officer visits your home unannounced to confirm that you actually live there. We stayed close to home for several days, not sure what to expect. to our surprise, the officer showed up just three days later, on Friday morning. After confirming our residency, he simply said, “Congratulations, you are Figlinese.”
Esterina’s path is a bit more complex but also progressed this week. She is applying for citizenship under jure sanguinis—“right of blood.” Because her father remained an Italian citizen, she is eligible to be recognized as one as well. With the help of a lawyer, she has gathered extensive documentation—birth certificates, marriage records, and more—to prove her lineage and her father’s uninterrupted citizenship. Her application process is now underway. Once formally submitted, she will be allowed to remain in Italy while it is processed, even if it exceeds the 90-day limit. The timeline is unpredictable, anywhere from a few months to much longer, but we’ve cleared an important hurdle and the police check confirmed her presence at the registered address, so we are now free to travel and are happy to have overcome this important hurdle.
Koji, too, needed to become a resident of Figline. Fortunately, his process was straightforward. Before leaving the U.S., we obtained a required USDA health certificate with help from our local vet, ensured his microchip was in place, and confirmed his rabies vaccination. With these documents, along with our tax IDs and passports, we emailed the regional public health veterinary department and were offered an appointment within two days. At the visit, his chip was scanned, paperwork reviewed, and within ten minutes he was officially registered. He now even has a pet passport, allowing him to travel throughout the EU.
We spent a great deal of time preparing for these processes and expected significant obstacles. So far, however, everything has been surprisingly efficient and manageable.
Clearly Marking our door – advice we got for the Police check
There were, of course, other administrative tasks, particularly around taxes, that proved far more complicated. Establishing ourselves in the Italian tax system as self-employed “digital nomads” required the help of both an Italian/U.S. accounting firm and an Italian tax lawyer. The short version: all our 2026 income, even what was earned before we moved, is taxable in Italy. While a U.S.-Italy tax treaty prevents double taxation, Italian rates are higher, making our eventual tax bill somewhat uncertain. We won’t have clarity until we file in Italy in September 2027. For now, we are legally set up to live, work, and pay taxes here. Fun indeed.
Amid all this, we’ve also spent more time exploring our new home base of Figline. At first glance, it felt a bit gritty—not exactly Siena or San Gimignano. But it has everything we need: grocery stores, a weekly market, pharmacies, restaurants, and easy access from our apartment just a few miles away.
And over time, it has grown on us.
The “grittiness” seems to be part of the Italian landscape. Public spaces can feel a bit worn, but Figline has a beautiful central piazza, complete with church bells and outdoor cafés, all surrounded by ancient walls. It’s a real Italian town, with very few tourists. We’ve started to settle into daily life here—haircuts, pharmacy runs, casual meals—and it’s beginning to feel familiar.
Last night, the piazza came alive with a Latin Festival—music, food, and drinks from Spain, Mexico, Argentina, Venezuela, and a host of other Latin countries. This was even more exciting than it might sound because in Italy, finding non-Italian food is a bit of a challenge. In many towns, including Figline, it hardly exists at all. Finally, a burrito and a taco! We can’t say that the food was great, but it was something different for a change. And the scene in town was lively and fun. Children were playing in the square. A DJ played Latin music. Italian women spontaneously broke into dance, and it seemed as if the entire town was in the square strolling, dancing, laughing, and enjoying the evening.
And then, to our delight, we discovered an exceptional gelateria right in the piazza—one that had been closed during our previous daytime visits. On a Friday night, it was buzzing, with over 40 flavors on display. There’s even a “doggie cup” for Koji. To our surprise, some of the best gelato we’ve had in Italy is right here in our own town. Chocolate fondant, hazelnut cream, and cream pistachio are our top 3 favorites so far. We’ve already gone twice and fully intend to work our way through the entire menu.
Another truly amazing thing is how amazingly beautiful the spring is here in Tuscany. There are wisteria and wildflowers all over the place. We wish we could share the smell of the Wisteria through this blog. These are some photos from a walk just this afternoon and outside of the piazza last night.
Our apartment has also proven to be a great choice, though finding it was not easy. We spent weeks researching and traveling, deciding between urban vs. rural, north vs. south, coast vs. hills, before settling on Tuscany. It felt like the safe, perhaps even cliché, choice. But the infrastructure is excellent, the location is central, and the presence of both tourists and expats adds a layer of comfort.
Our place is part of a converted stone farmhouse, now divided into about a dozen apartments. Ours spans two floors, with two bedrooms and two bathrooms. It sits on a hilltop with sweeping views of the surrounding countryside. We have a small porch where we can eat outside, a pool with lounge chairs, and beautiful gardens to walk through. With sunny days and temperatures in the high 60s this week, we’ve already spent time reading by the pool and enjoyed our first dinner outdoors.
That said, adjusting to a much smaller kitchen and refrigerator has been a challenge. As two people who enjoy cooking at home, we’re learning to adapt to limited space and fewer appliances, but not without some grumbling.
These are the kinds of details you don’t think about when imagining a move like this. Our trips around Tuscany have been picture-book worthy. But the rolling hills, historic towns, and unforgettable meals are only part of the story. The real experience is built from the everyday: haircuts, paperwork, grocery runs, and evening gelato in the piazza. These are equal parts of the tapestry we are weaving as we build this new life here in Italy.
Some more photos of our place that we are falling in love with more and more each day.
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Last summer, one Saturday morning when we first started talking about coming to Italy for a year, we were very keen on the idea of moving to a city. Esterina grew up in Brooklyn and Daren had lived in New York City and Boston for several years. We both have fond memories of city living—the energy, the walkability, the simplicity of not needing a car.
We were excited about it for a few days, until one rainy afternoon when we were stuck inside. Esterina asked, “What would we do in a city on a day like today in a small apartment?” That question planted the first seed of doubt.
Later in the fall, while looking for a place to live, we still explored the idea. Our first stop was Bologna—everyone we knew, in and outside of Italy, loved it. It felt like the perfect fit. But after just a few hours of walking around, doubts crept in.
Then came Rome. For a few days, we were convinced that was it. But not long after arriving, something shifted. We found ourselves paying a small fortune just to sit in a park for a bit of greenery. The loud clashing of church bells at noon and the constant sirens made it feel like there was no escape from the noise. Once again, the doubts surfaced—this time more clearly.
We don’t know why we don’t recognize the pattern sooner. We live in Connecticut and love going to New York City. Every time we go, we’re excited and start imagining what it would be like to live there. But after a day or two, something changes. It starts to feel like too much. And when we get home, the birds, the trees, the open space—it all feels exactly right.
Luckily, we gave ourselves enough time in these Italian cities to notice that same shift. It led us to choosing a home in the hills of Tuscany—just 10–15 minutes from town, with everything we need nearby, including a train that gets us to Florence in under half an hour.
This week, we had to go into Florence to swap out our car (a long story), and decided to stay a few days.
And just like that, the draw of the city pulled us in again.
Florence is stunning. Walkable, charming, full of life. We parked the car once and didn’t need it again. That alone felt like such a relief. We started imagining—what if we lived here long-term? Everything felt easy and beautiful.
And the options. After weeks of mostly Italian cuisine (which is incredible, no question), we were suddenly surrounded by variety again. Different foods, big grocery stores, clothing shops, markets, art—everything right there.
It felt exciting. Full.
And then…
The dog had nowhere to go. No grass. Nowhere to sniff. We walked and walked, searching for even a small patch, and came up empty. Eventually, he just went in the middle of the street.
And when we got tired—from all the walking—and wanted a break, the options were shops or our small hotel room. I had that same thought again: where do you go to actually relax?
On our last day, we planned to go to Mercato Centrale—the big open market—before everything closed for Easter. We left the dog at the hotel and headed out, ready to stock up.
We walked in and it was beautiful. The smells, the colors, the energy—it felt magical. The kind of place you imagine having at your fingertips all the time.
And within minutes, we were done.
Too many people. Too many options. Too much navigating, deciding, sampling. We looked at each other and walked out.
We headed back toward the hotel—and toward our poor dog—and realized we’d much rather just go to the local Coop and get what we needed.
We love cities. We really do. But we love leaving them just as much. And coming home—where it’s quiet, green, and enough.
And we will be back. Again & again & again. Here is why! (photos below)
One of the many ancient wine windows in FlorenceDid you know David’s Eyes are Hearts? Koji’s first trip into a book storeIn front of the first Gucci Store!a Yarn Store!! Replica of David
This past week we spent three days in Florence. It is a gorgeous city steeped in art and history. The Medici, who ruled the city for 300 years, placed enormous value on art—particularly painting, architecture, and sculpture. They used their vast wealth to bring the greatest artists from around Italy to Florence, where they could create masterpieces and experiment with new techniques. It’s not an overstatement to say that the Medici were the founders—or perhaps the midwives—of the Renaissance.
Everything about Florence is big. The statue of David is 17 feet tall and weighs 12,000 pounds. The Duomo, Florence’s famed cathedral, can hold 30,000 people and is one of the largest in the world. Its dome, designed and built by Brunelleschi, remains the largest masonry dome ever constructed. And the crowds in Florence are enormous as well. We were there during the first week in April—not even high season—but the crowds were impressive.
I’d call this phenomenon “big crowds to see big things.” Everyone has heard about the great sights in Florence, and they come in droves to experience them. The line to get into the Duomo stretched halfway around the building (we took a pass). Crowds on the Ponte Vecchio were so dense it was hard to get across. We waited in line for 20–30 minutes to enter the Boboli Gardens. Despite the crowds, we thoroughly enjoyed and appreciated the beauty of this magnificent city—great works, great sights, great food, great city.
I’ve been reading about the life and teachings of St. Francis. Although I’m only at the beginning of what I hope will be an ongoing exploration, I’ve learned enough to know that he would not have thought much of these big, beautiful things. St. Francis found beauty in the small things and preached the importance of simplicity, nature, and faith through action. He didn’t like big churches, big titles, or showy deeds. He cautioned against the dangers of pursuing the “three P’s”: power, prestige, and persona.
I was thinking about him a few days ago while walking Koji first thing in the morning. In the past, I would have been in a bit of a rush. I always walked Koji early, right after getting up, which meant his walk was a chore to complete before breakfast, coffee, and getting to work. While I tried to use these walks to clear my mind and appreciate my surroundings, my thoughts were often elsewhere—focused on “big things” like an upcoming presentation, a meeting, or a deadline.
Big Sights & Scenes from Florence
My walks here in Italy have been different. There is no rush. There are few big things to worry about.
On this particular morning, Koji was very into sniffing. In the past this would have annoyed me. This time, I let him sniff to his heart’s content, which gave me time to appreciate the beautiful views from our hilltop property. This time of year there are wildflowers everywhere—yellow, orange, purple, and white. Whole fields are dotted with them, but they’re so small you miss them unless you stop and look closely.
Then, in the distance, I heard the faint tinkling of what sounded like cowbells. I would not have noticed them had I not paused in silence while Koji sniffed. As I searched for the source, I saw a flock of sheep grazing in the valley below. The bells were sheep bells, not cowbells. Mountains in the distance were snowcapped, and a layer of fog covered the valleys below. In the past, I would have missed this entire scene.
It was as much a masterpiece as any painting in a Florentine gallery. But unlike those in Florence, this one was mine to enjoy without the crowds. Its components were small, everyday things: flowers, fog, and sheep.
Scenes from Morning Walks with Koji
I loved Florence and will absolutely go back to see more. But there are two messages for me in these contrasting experiences. The first is that if we spend our time only seeking out the “big things”—great domes, statues, and famous paintings—we will miss the great works of art that exist everywhere in nature. They are not celebrated or recorded, but they are there for the taking if we only stop and look.
And therein lies the second message: these natural masterpieces are easily missed. We likely overlook hundreds of them every day when we are preoccupied with other things. Slowing down, even for a few moments, opens us up to appreciating the masterworks in our own backyard.
